Thursday, September 17, 2026

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #7 - Belfast, Nortern Island

Day 4: Belfast Murals, Navan Fort, Titanic Whiskey distillery
Thursday, September 17


Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: We’ll be joined by a local expert who will give us a presentation on the colorful and evocative political murals of Belfast. The political mural tradition in the north of Ireland is more than a century old, and the lecture will trace the history of this distinctive form of political expression from the earliest examples — painted before the War of Independence by loyalists who supported British rule — to its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s, and more recent murals painted since the Good Friday Agreement of 1998.

We’ll then board a motorcoach and ride to Navan Fort, one of Ireland’s most important prehistoric ceremonial sites and the legendary capital of Ulster in Irish mythology. Closely associated with the tales of the Ulster Cycle and the legendary King Conchobar mac Nessa, Navan Fort offers a fascinating insight into Ireland’s ancient Celtic past.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: Following our field trip in Armagh, we will return to Belfast by motorcoach stopping en route at Titanic Whiskey distillery. Belfast’s first working whiskey distillery, having first become operational in the early 1900’s. During our exploration, we’ll follow the production process from grain to glass, and taste some of what the distillery produces.

Dinner: This meal has been excluded from the program cost and is on your own to enjoy what you like. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions and give directions.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 85 miles, approximately 3 hours. Walking about 1.5 miles, periods of standing; paved streets, tarmac and gravel paths. Extent of walking and other activities during free time according to personal choice.

Accommodations: Leonardo Hotel Belfast
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch
I set the alarm for 6:20 am. Like the Eastern European trip, I am not sleeping well. My sleep debt in Oura has grown from zero to an hour and a half in the last couple of days.

I started the day with a quick five minute Peloton core workout.

After breakfast at the hotel, we had an excellent presentation on Irish history, politics and The Troubles through the lens of Belfast Murals. The lecturer was Bill Rolston. [Note to self], I need to look for one of his books online.

After the lecture, we boarded the bus and headed to Armagh. Armagh is the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland. Saint Patrick founded his main church here in 445 AD, establishing Armagh as the historic center of Christianity on the island.


We visited Navan Fort, It served as the ancient ceremonial site and stronghold of the Kings of Ulster and features prominently in Irish mythology, including the tales of Cú Chulainn and the Red Branch Knights. This is a pre-Christianity site dating back to 100 BC.

Despite being called a "fort," excavations show the site was a major sacred sanctuary and ceremonial complex rather than a defensive military stronghold. The site consists of a massive circular bank and ditch enclosing a large grassy mound at the top of a drumlin hill.

The stop included an odd living history presentation.
We had lunch at the Mullbery Bistro. I had chicken curry, while Sharon had fish and chips.

Afterwards, we headed back to Belfast. More than half the group decided to skip the distillary and go to the Titantic Belfast Museum. Situated at the head of the historic slipways where the RMS Titanic was designed, built, and launched, the building stands as a landmark tribute to the city's maritime history. The exhibition leads visitors through the story of boomtown Belfast in the early 20th century, the shipyard construction process of the Titantic, launch day, the maiden voyage, the sinking, and the aftermath.
Afterwards, Holly, Van, Sharon and I got a cab back to the hotel. After getting cleaned up, the four of us took an Uber to The Muddlers Club Restaurant. It is a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant tucked away in Warehouse Lane, an unassuming alley in Belfast's Cathedral Quarter. Named after a 200-year-old secret society of United Irishmen that used to meet on the site, it offers a sophisticated, modern dining experience with an unpretentious, welcoming atmosphere.

Head chef Gareth McCaughey focuses on high-end local produce prepared with precision, serving guests in a cool, post-industrial space featuring exposed brick, dark accents, and a wide-open kitchen. We did the seven fixed menu shown below.
Taking a cab back to the hotel, it was after 10:30 pm by the time we got to bed. Tomorrow is moving...

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