2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #13 - Golubac, Serbia

Golubac Fortress by Foot
Medieval Town with Striking Views of the Danube
Admire sweeping views of the Danube River and its surroundings during a walking tour of Golubac Fortress.

Disembark your ship at the pier and meet your guide, then take a short stroll to this fortified medieval town that sits along the shores of the mighty Danube. Explore the remnants of the high stone walls and looming square towers as your guide regales you with stories of the fortress’s history. Originally a Roman settlement, it was built during the 14th century; who built it remains a mystery, but its strategic position along the Danube made it a valuable prize for conquering armies throughout the centuries. Stop atop the ramparts to gaze across the Danube and revel in the natural beauty of the encircling landscape. After your walk, take a moment to appreciate your surroundings on your own before returning to your awaiting ship and continuing your cruise.

The ship was quieter overnight than the previous night while we were sailing downstream.

In an odd turn of events, I have done something to my lower back. My tailbone? I have a suspicion that I did it doing a 15 minute stretch with Sharon on Monday...

The morning included Viking excursion was a tour of the Golubac Fortress. The Golubac Fortress (Golubačka tvrđava) is one of Serbia's most iconic and well-preserved medieval structures. Situated on the right bank of the Danube at the very entrance to the Iron Gates (Djerdap Gorge), it is famed for its "fan-shaped" architecture that seems to tumble down the rocky cliffs into the river.

Because the river narrows significantly here (from 4 miles wide to just a 650 feet), the fortress allowed its rulers to control all river traffic and trade between East and West. It changed hands dozens of times between the Serbian Despotate, the Kingdom of Hungary, and the Ottoman Empire.

One of the optional excursions was a guide hike that climbed to the top of the fortress!

The rest of the day was lazy. We had lunch in the restaurant. We both had Corn Chowder (whiskey sabayon) and a Shepherd Salad (romaine lettuce, tomato, cucumber, feta cheese, ham, egg; Italian dressing). We sat with Cora and Annie and Tom and Ann.

The afternoon was scenic cruising of the Iron Gates. The Iron Gates (Serbo-Croatian: Đerdapska klisura; Romanian: Porțile de Fier) are one of the most spectacular natural wonders in Europe. It is a massive gorge system that forms part of the boundary between Serbia and Romania, where the Danube River cuts through the Carpathian and Balkan Mountains.


In 105 AD, the Roman Emperor Trajan built a massive bridge across the Danube to invade Dacia. While the bridge is gone, you can still see the Tabula Traiana, a Roman memorial plaque carved into the Serbian side of the cliffs.


On the Romanian side, directly opposite the Roman plaque, is a colossal 40-meter-high rock carving of Decebalus, the last king of Dacia. Completed in 2004, it is the tallest rock sculpture in Europe.


After going to the port talk, we had dinner in the restaurant. It was a regional Balkan dinner with a meat platter. It was better than the food we had in the restaurant in Belgrade. We sat with Phil and Fern and Chris and Coleen.

Losing an hour due to the time change, we crashed at just before 10 pm.

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #12 - Belgrade, Serbia

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Historic Belgrade On Foot
Walking Tour of Serbian Capital
Stroll the historic streets of Belgrade and see the city’s architectural highlights on a walking tour.

At Kalemegdan Park, marvel at the landscape dominated by the imposing fortress. Built in the 3rd century BC by the Romans, the fortress guarded the border separating the ruling Roman Empire from barbarian lands across the Danube, later the divider between the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires. Explore the grounds as you learn of its dramatic storied past. Next, walk along the Grand Boulevard to Knez Mihailova Street where you will enjoy free time to stroll the pedestrian area and indulge in some shopping. Stop for coffee and cake at the historic Moscow Hotel and take a bus ride to the Church of St. Sava, one of the largest orthodox churches in the world. Return to your ship by tram.


Belgrade by E-Bike
Pedal Through the Capital City’s Green Side
Join locals on a leisurely exploration of a popular urban outdoor escape along the banks of the Sava River.

Begin your electric bike tour near the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, where the city of Belgrade has its roots. Pass Belgrade’s new waterfront complex, located on the right bank of river Sava, with its modern buildings and wide promenade. Surprisingly soon, you leave the bustle of Belgrade behind as you wind your way through parklands and quiet residential neighborhoods toward Ada Lake, located on an island in the river. This small idyll, lined with cozy cafés and sunny beaches, provides the perfect urban oasis and is very popular with the people of Belgrade. Spend some time taking in the tranquil surroundings and enjoy a refreshing drink before heading back to your ship.


Dine in Belgrade’s Bohemian Quarter
Savor a Tasty Meal of Local Fare
Stroll the vintage streets of Belgrade and savor an authentic Serbian meal at a local restaurant.

Meet your guide and embark on a guided walk through Skadarlija, the bohemian quarter of Belgrade known for its many cafes, art galleries and taverns. Stroll the cobblestoned streets of the Old Town and admire notable architecture, dating back to the 19th century. Soak up the atmosphere of the city’s quaint squares as you watch people amble by. At a local restaurant, sit down to a tasty meal of local fare and enjoy a lively toe-tapping performance. You will enjoy urnebes, a popular Serbian paprika spread; a tasty meat selection including ćevapi; grilled Serbian beef sausages; and a selection of traditional desserts. You will also enjoy some local Serbian wine. Your appetite sated, return to your awaiting ship.

A very aggressive and rewarding day!

As a sidebar, the ship seemed very noisy when it was cruising overnight. Both Sharon and I were restless. We are very close to the back to the ship in room 335.

We started the day with the optional Viking "Historic Belgrade On Foot" excursion at 8:15 am. This was perfect. The group included only ten people. Leaving from the ship, we walked up to Kalemegdan Park and explored Belgrade Fortress. From there, we walked along Knez Mihailova Street. This historic street is the city's primary pedestrian zone and shopping hub.

We stopped briefly at Republic Square (Trg republike). The prominent equestrian statue in the center of the square depicts Prince Mihailo Obrenović, who was responsible for liberating Serbia from Ottoman rule and establishing many of the city's cultural institutions.

We had a break at the Moscow Hotel for coffee and treats. The group then took a city bus to St. Sava Church. The Church of Saint Sava (Hram Svetog Save) is the largest Orthodox church in Serbia and one of the most recognizable landmarks in Belgrade. The temple was built on the site where it is believed the Ottoman Grand Vizier Sinan Pasha burned the relics of Saint Sava in 1594. Saint Sava was the founder of the autocephalous Serbian Orthodox Church and is the patron saint of the Serbian people.

After touring the church and the crypt, we caught a city bus back to the ship. It started to rain fairly hard as we were working our way back to the ship.


We got back to the ship about 1:15 pm. With an excursion planned for 2 pm, we dashed to the restaurant. We both a Monte Cristo Sandwich (ham, turkey & Emmental on mustard-coated bread; coleslaw; potato chips).

At 1:50 pm, I headed to the optional Viking "Belgrade by E-Bike" excursion. I really enjoyed this. The two person team leading the tour did a really nice job. With a number of stops, we covered just over thirteen miles in almost two hours. We headed up the Sava River and around Lake Sava. It is an artificial lake created by damming a branch of the Sava River, effectively turning the former island of Ada Ciganlija into a peninsula.


I was back to the ship about 4:30 pm. It didn't rain on the tour!

Getting cleaned up, Sharon and I did the optional Viking "Dine in Belgrade’s Bohemian Quarters" excursion. For several reasons, we both enjoyed this more than we expected. Part of the experience is always who you are sitting with. We ended up at table with one of the guides (Marco), the Ship's Program Director (Adrian), Scott, Angela and David. The conversation, the food and the music exceeded our expectations. I can't begin to describe the menu... There was lots of meat for the main.


We were back on the ship by 8:30 pm. Sharon and I crashed just before 10 pm.

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #11 - Vukovar, Croatia

Croatian Countryside & Wine Tasting
Croatian Castles and Fine Vintages
Discover the rich and varied history of northern Croatia and sample some of its delicious wines.

Since Roman times, this region of the country has been coveted, thanks to its strategic location on the Danube. During this enlightening excursion, you will drive with your guide to one of the area’s renowned museums, a castle with fascinating medieval origins, where you will browse a rich and revealing collection of artifacts dating back centuries. As you tour the castle chambers and halls, Croatia’s past comes alive in priceless relics that have survived the ages. You will also turn to the fruits of the earth when you descend into a wine cellar in the historic town of Ilok. In these dim corridors, you will taste a combination of five red, white or rose wines and experience for yourself why its prized grapes and hearty vintages have helped put Croatia on every oenophile’s map.

We ended up sleeping late. It was almost 7 am by the time we were moving. We decided that we were going to skip the morning Viking included excursion. We got a large dose of this area when we stayed on a local farm during the OATS trip in 2024.

With almost everyone taking the morning excursion, we had the restaurant to ourselves. Surprisingly, after the morning excursions left, the boat pulled away from the dock and headed back up river. It docked at a freight dock where a truck was waiting for supplies for the boat. The crew spent more than two hours loading the boat using a human chain. Talking to the bartender (Carlo) at lunch, we said that they stop once a week to load provisons.

Sharon and I did a 10 minute bodyweight Peloton workout and 15 minute full body stretch together. Afterwards, we walked for thirty minutes on sun desk. Power walking in circles, I covered almost two miles.

We had lunch in the Aquavit Terrace with a nice table for two. We both had cauliflower soup and nicoise salad. After lunch, we did the after optional Viking excursion titled "Croatian Countryside & Wine Tasting." I was surprised at the size of the group; they loaded more than 50 people on one bus.

The first stop was the Vukovar Municipal Museum (Castle Eltz). The museum is housed in a grand 18th-century Baroque palace complex. Originally built between 1749 and 1751 for the noble Eltz family, it was expanded over the centuries into one of Croatia's most significant examples of secular feudal architecture. .

We saw a film showing the damage from the 1991 Battle of Vukovar. The city is best known for the 87-day siege by the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) and Serbian paramilitaries. It was the first major European city to be entirely devastated since World War II.

We walked through the Ethnographic Collection. This section features traditional folk costumes and jewelry from the Danube region.

Leaving the museum, we passed the Vukovar Water Tower. It is the most recognizable symbol of the city and a powerful emblem of Croatian resistance. Standing 165 feet tall along the Danube, it serves as a "silent witness" to the 1991 Battle of Vukovar during the Croatian War with Serbia.

Heading out into the countryside, we drove almost 45 minutes to the Kast Winery. We did a cellar tour.


After the cellar tour, we did a tasting. Sharon and I were both impressed with several of the wines. Sharon was very critical of Croatia wines during our OATS tour; she was pleasantly surprised. Interesting, Sharon's brother Tom visited this winery on this trip last year.

We ended up sitting with Bill and Joel at dinner. I had the regional dinner again. It included: Podunavska Mesna Seleckija (assorted local cold cuts) as a starter; Pecena Vratina sa Ajvarom (pork roast with ajvar potato, savoy c abbage) as a main; and Cupavci (chocolate coconut cake) for dessert. Sharon had a steak.

We crashed just before 10 pm.

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #10 - Kalocsa, Hungary

Kalocsa & Puszta
Hungary’s Capital of Paprika and Equestrian Arts
Visit one of Hungary’s major cultural centers and attend a breathtaking display of traditional horsemanship.

Depart your ship for a short drive to the city of Kalocsa, where a rich history is flavored by the town’s renowned peppery paprika. In Holy Trinity Square, you will see the splendid cathedral and admire the Archbishop’s Palace. After a short organ concert at St. Joseph Church, continue to the Bakodpuszta Equestrian Center. The people of the Hungarian Puszta region have long relied on horses for transportation, settlement and defense of their land. Many locals worry that their country’s equestrian connection is being lost to a motorized world, so they hold fast to rural ways and to their four-legged comrades, elevating horsemanship to an art form. Witness the sometimes acrobatic culmination of this long-cherished relationship during a thrilling show.

I slept a litte better. We were up moving about 6:15 am. Although there is not much space in the room, I did a five minute Peloton core workout.

We headed to our first breakfast on the ship. We ended up sitting with Gary and Cindy. They split their time between Naples, Florida and Minnesota. He was a primary care physician.

Just before 9 am, they loaded almost the whole boat on four buses. It was about a twenty minute ride to The Bakodpuszta Horse Farm. We saw a horse riding show. Afterwards, we wandered the property. They had HUNGARIAN GREY CATTLE, MANGALICA PIGS and HUNGARIAN RACKA SHEEP.

Sharon bought some paprika. The region is a major paprike growing region.

From there, we headed to the Assumption Cathedral (also known as the Kalocsa Cathedral). It is the seat of the Archdiocese of Kalocsa-Kecskemét and one of the most important religious sites in Hungary. The current building is a masterpiece of Italian Baroque architecture, completed between 1728 and 1774. It was built on the ruins of several earlier churches, the first of which was founded by St. Stephen around 1010.


There was a twenty organ concert in the church. Afterwards, we headed back to the ship.

We were on the first bus back. We grabbed a seat on the front of the boat in Aquavit restaurant. We ended up having a long leisurely lunch with Lindsay and Shelia. With temperatures in the 70s, the four of us ended up sitting there and visiting long after they closed up for lunch.

We both took naps after lunch. I did two Peleton outdoor walks around path on the sun deck for half an hour.

We went to the lounge for a welcome drink with the captain. This was followed by a review of the optional excursion over the next couple of days.

We sat with Chris and Coleen and Phil and Fern at dinner. Both Sharon and I had the regional mail. It included Hortogbágyi Palacsinta (chicken crepe roulade, creamy paprika sauce) as a starter, Fogas Kárpathy (seared pike perch, shrimp, mashed potatoes, white wine sauce) as the main and Somlói Galuska (traditional Hungarian trifle) for dessert.

We crashed about 10:30 pm...

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #9 - Budapest, Hungry

Highlights of Budapest
Visit Hungarian Parliament and Sample a Selection of Dishes
Step inside Hungary’s grand parliament building and get a flavor for the nation’s hearty cuisine.

Transfer with your guide to the Budapest Parliament building, the world’s third largest. As the nation’s business goes on around you, you will enjoy a guided tour of select public rooms. Next, walk to Szabadság Square, or Liberty Square, stopping to view the statue of Ronald Reagan and the art nouveau treasures that surround this public space. You will also see the US Embassy and the decorative Postal Savings Bank. Pause to taste some pogácsa, or salty scones, enroute to the Urban Betyár Restaurant, where you will sample heart sausages and a cup of goulash soup. Finish your tasting tour with a delicious Somlói Galuska and hear the story behind this beloved sweet treat.

Moving day. We are finally getting on the Viking Longship Honir today!

We set an alarm for 6:15 am. After packing up the room, we went to the breakfast buffet in the hotel. Back at the room, we put the suitcases in the hall at 7:45 am. We headed down to join our excursion at 8:15 am.

We did the "Highlights of Budapest" excursion. It turned out to be much different than I expected. It was a walking tour. With a group of twenty, we boarded a tram in front of the hotel. We rode the tram to the Parliament Building. We did an audio tour of the building. Getting a chance to see the building over the last couple of days and then tour it was very cool.

From there, we walked through Freedom Square with statues of Ronald Reagan and George H. W. Bush. The latter was poignant because I read a book about Bush senior recently. He was very involved in the fall of the Iron Curtain.


We had a group lunch at Urban Betyar. We had Hungarian Goulash Soup.

After 5lunch, the guide got everyone on a bus to the Viking Longship. We got checked in and started to settle in room. Although I tried to prepare her, Sharon was a little surprised by the small size of the room compared to the other cruises that we done.

Getting cleaned up, we went to the lounge for the Captain's welcome and the port talk. Heading to dinner, we sat with two other couples: Angela and Scott; and Joel and Pat.

While Sharon had Halibut, I had the regional dinner. It included Magyar Marhagulyás Leves (Hungarian goulash soup with paprika spiced beef and vegetable broth) as a starter, Sertésszüz Szeletek (pork tenderloin medallions with pepper sauce; mashed sweet potato, savoy cabbage) as a main and Mákos Guba (poppy seed bread pudding & plum jam) for dessert.

As we were finishing dinner, the boat pulled away from the dock. We sailed up river and around Margaret Island. As we started back down river, the view of the city was beautiful. With so many building lite up at night, Sharon noted that there may not be another city in the world with this kind of view from the river.

We crashed about 10:30 pm.

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #8 - Budapest, Hungary

Panoramic Budapest
Hungary’s Graceful and Inspiring Capital
Take in one of Europe’s great cultural capitals and see its iconic sights.

Over the last few decades, Budapest has reemerged as one of the continent’s iconic cities, divided by the Danube River and connected by the graceful Chain Bridge. Meet your guide for a panoramic tour, beginning in modern Pest. Along the elegant Andrássy Avenue, admire the National Opera House. Pass Heroes’ Square, a spacious plaza of monuments and statues commemorating the Magyar state. Across the river, explore the more traditional Buda side of the city. Here, visit the Castle District with its massive hilltop castle complex, the turreted Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church. From the heights of Buda Hill, take in views of the famous Chain Bridge. Afterward, enjoy free time to explore the enchanting Buda Hill Castle area at your leisure, before returning to your ship.


Budapest by Night
An Enchanting Evening of Sights and Landmarks
Be captivated by Budapest as you explore the city after dark and raise a toast to its stunning landmarks.

Meet your guide and set off on a panoramic drive to witness several iconic sights. Admire the twinkling lights along the Danube and enjoy memorable views of the city known as the “Paris of the East.” See brilliantly illuminated bridges, including the Liberty Bridge—the shortest bridge in the city that connects Buda and Pest. View landmarks, such as Gellért Hill and Buda Castle, as your knowledgeable guide regales you with stories of the city’s history. Your drive continues along the Danube River to the beautiful Parliament building; its illuminated façade is a sight to behold after dark. Cap your excursion with a visit to a bar, where you can enjoy views of the Danube River as you sip a glass of sparkling wine.

I know that I am a broken record, but I am not sleeping well on this trip. I am building up a large sleep deficit in Oura.

We were up and moving about 6:15 am. I did a ten minute bodyweight Peloton workout.

After getting breakfast at the hotel buffet, we joined a cattle call for Viking "Panoramic Budapest" excursion. I think that the Viking host said the night before that there were 180 guests joining the boat on Saturday. They were all in the lobby waiting to join the excursion.

The excursion did a driving tour of the Pest side, including: the Great Synagogue; the Hungarian State Opera House; and, Hero's Square. It was quickly apparent that this city is much bigger than Prague; it is not as walkable.

Crossing the river to the Buda side, we got off in the Castle District. The Castle District is the historic heart of the city, perched on a hill above the Danube. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is a dense collection of medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture.

We did a walking tour to the Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle (Matthias Church). This 13th-century church is famous for its striking tiled roof and ornate interior. Once inside, the guide gave us a brief overview. Afterwards, Sharon and I explored the Church and the Fisherman's Bastion. The Fisherman's Bastion is a 19th-century Neo-Romanesque fortress features seven turreted towers representing the original Hungarian chieftains. It is widely considered the best spot in the city for panoramic views of the Parliament Building across the river.

With some free time, we did a little shopping and got a beverage. Viking bussed back to the hotel.

With a nighttime excursion planned, Sharon had made a 3:30 reservation for an early, early dinner. We decided to pivot and have a late lunch. We walked to Textura. We had a four course tasting menu. My courses included a very good pork knuckle starter, chicken soup, pork neck main and dessert. I didn't get a copy of the menu...

After lunch, we explored St. Stephen's Basilica. It is the largest church in Budapest and one of the most significant religious buildings in Hungary.


From there, we walked across the Chain Bridge from the Pest side to the Buda Site. Heading up river on the Pest side, we walked to the Shoes on the Danube Memorial. This is a poignant memorial that honors the Jews who were killed by the Arrow Cross militia during World War II.


With a late excursion planned, we crashed in the room for a bit and then had a drink and a snack in the bar at the hotel.

The evening excursion was "Budapest at Night." It was fanastic. It may be one of the best Viking excursions we have ever done. After a quick stop for a glass of champagne at Felix, we headed to the Palace. We walked to a terrace overlooking the city. It was a great spot for pictures.

We toured the Palace area. It was empty of people and lite up with lights. I really enjoyed the walking tour through the Palace.

Getting back to the bus, we stopped across the Danube from the Parliament Building for more pictures. It was almost 11 pm by the time we were back to the hotel.

Unfortunately, it was after 11:30 pm by the time we crashed...

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #7 - To Budapest, Hungary

A long day.

Up at 5:45 am, we packed up the room. I did a five minute Peloton core workout. We put our bags in the hall and went to breakfast at 6:45 am.

The pre-tour group met in the lobby at 7:30 am. They loaded 29 people on a very comfortable bus with a capacity of 55. The bus pulled away front hotel about 7:40 am.

Using my iPhone as a hotspot, I spent the morning updating my blog. I have used this capability on a number of trips over the last four years. I am always amazed at well this works and how much I can get done.

The bus made a twenty minute stop after two hours. Leaving the Czech Republic, we traveled through Slovakia and along the edige of the capital of Bratislava. As we were leaving Slovakia, you could see windmills in nearby Austria.
We stopped at just across the broder into Hungray for lunch. Sharon had beef stew, while I had chicken soup.

The bus finally pulled up the InterContinental Hotel in Budapest about 3:10 pm. A seven and a half hour trip! Thankfully, both of us thought that the trip went very fast.

Checking in and getting settled in the room, we did a thirty minute Viking orientation walking tour. Afterwards, we found a cafe along the Danube for a glass of Rose.

We had an early dinner at Retek Bisztro. It is a highly regarded restaurant in the heart of Budapest’s District V, near St. Stephen’s Basilica. It is known for its focus on "grandma’s kitchen" style Hungarian cuisine, blending traditional flavors with modern presentation.

For a starter, we split the Hortobágyi pancake filled with minced chicken and paprika sauce. For entrees, Sharon Chicken paprikash with noodles “royal” style, while I had Slowly roasted duck leg with red cabbage cream and ewe cheese pancake.

After dinner, we wandered District V. We crashed early; we were in bed before 9:30 pm.

Sharon is very happy with the view from the room!

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #6 - Kutná Hora, Czech Republic

Kutná Hora
A Bohemian Enclave with a Rich Past
Discover the impressive architecture and historic treasures of one of the Czech Republic’s most important towns.

Built on silver mining from the 13th century, Kutná Hora became a thriving crossroads of trade. Drive with your guide into the scenic Czech countryside, passing farmland and gently rolling hills. En route, you will briefly pause at the Sedlec Ossuary, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This curious Roman Catholic chapel is artistically adorned with human skeletal bones. After, continue to Kutná Hora and the vast St. Barbara Cathedral, also a UNESCO Site, one of Central Europe’s most impressive Gothic structures. Dedicated to the patron saint of miners, it took more than 500 years to build because of the town’s waxing and waning economy. After viewing the interior, enjoy a walking tour of the town, followed by lunch at a local restaurant and free time to explore.

I haven't been sleeping very well on this trip; I have been very restless and waking up a lot at night. My Oura sleep score for last night was decent only because I napped for 40 minutes before we went to dinner on Tuesday night. Finally getting up about 6:15 am, I went to the fitness center and did a 10 minute arms and light weights Peloton workout.

For the scond day in a row, we took advantage of the buffet at the Marriot for breakfast. The plan for the day was a long Viking "Kutná Hora" excursion. A small group walked from the Marriott Hotel to the Palace Hotel to join the excursion. Talking to people waiting to board the van, I realized that there are people from multiple Viking tours joining the excursions, not just from our tour. Someone said that in high season that Viking has 10,000 people in Prague!?!

Rolling from the Palace Hotel about 9:15 am, we headed east. Kutná Hora is a fascinating medieval city located about an hour from Prague. Once the second most important city in the Kingdom of Bohemia, it rivaled Prague in wealth and prestige thanks to its incredibly productive silver mines. Today, the entire historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its unique architecture and somewhat macabre history.

The first stop was the Sedlec Ossuary. It is world-famous for being decorated with the skeletal remains of an estimated 40,000 to 70,000 people. The massive bone chandelier is said to contain at least one of every bone in the human body. The bones were artistically arranged in 1870 by woodcarver František Rint to give order to the unearthed remains.

The second stop was St. Barbara's Church. The church is a spectacular Gothic cathedral-esque church and is the primary symbol of the city. Funded by the wealthy silver miners, it features striking flying buttresses and three distinct tent-like spires. The interior houses rare late-Gothic frescoes that depict secular scenes of medieval mining life. It took over 500 years to fully complete, with construction starting in 1388 and finishing only in 1905.

Heading into the city, we walked past the former Jesuit College. It is one of Kutná Hora's most significant Baroque landmarks. Constructed between 1667 and 1750, it was designed by the renowned Italian architect Giovanni Domenico Orsi to serve as a center for the Jesuit order.

The most striking feature is the elevated promenade in front of the college. It is lined with 12 Baroque statues of Jesuit saints, created by František Baugut, designed to mimic the feel of Prague's famous Charles Bridge.

We walked down into the city for lunch. Sharon had chicken, while I had a pork loin.

After lunch, we continued the walking tour of the old city for about 40 minutes. Boarding the bus, we headed back to Prague. We were back at the Marriott Hotel just beforer 4 pm.

I ran back into the Old Town to shop for a coffee mug and some Christmas ornaments. I was pleasantly surprised to find the Old Town Square empty of the Easter Market buildings. Since we got to Prague, the square has been full of temporary buildings for an Easter Market.

Getting cleaned up, Sharon and I finished the day with dinner at the one-Michelin-starred restaurant FIELD. This is the same chef that operates Restaurant 420 where we had dinner on Tuesday night. We had the five course tasting menu. It was leisuely three hour and fifteen minute meal. While the meal was good, I think that I enjoyed the meal at La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise on Sunday night more.

By the time we walked back to the hotel, it was almost after 10:30 pm. With a long day with an early start planned for tomorrw, we crashed just after 11 pm.

One footnote. I am writing this entry on the bus from Prague to Budapest using my iPhone as a hotspot for my iPad.

2026 Passage to Eastern Europe - Day #5 - Prague, Czech Republic

Panoramic Prague
City of One Hundred Spires
Step back in time in Prague, an incredible tapestry of remarkably preserved medieval brilliance.

Visit the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its main square was a major crossroads on 12th-century trade routes, and so it was the focal point of the city’s early development. Today, it is a repository of Romanesque, baroque and Gothic splendor. Among the buildings you will see are the Týn Church and the 15th-century Astronomical Clock, which comes alive every hour with its “Walk of the Apostles.” Continue to Prague Castle. Within this massive complex, see the Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral in which the good St. Wenceslas is entombed behind polished emeralds and stones. You will also see the grand castle itself, residence of the Czech president and the powerful seat of Bohemian kings and Holy Roman emperors of old.

Privileged Access: Lobkowicz Palace
Tour a Resplendent Home and Attend a Private Concert
See the stately residence of one of the region’s most avid patrons of the arts, and admire priceless artifacts.

The 700-year Lobkowicz family history is rich with tales of political and military leadership, inlaid with the art of great masters and bejeweled with musical masterpieces. Tour their resplendent palace with an audio guide narrated by members of the Lobkowicz family, who will regale you with intimate family stories, including the loss of the palace to both the Nazis and the Communists and its restitution to the family. Survey grand portraits, weaponry, tableware and personal love letters from the family archives. As a special treat, trace Mozart’s annotations to Handel’s Messiah and study Beethoven’s Third (Eroica), Fourth and Fifth Symphony manuscripts. Your visit includes lunch in the family’s original living quarters and a private concert in the baroque concert hall.

The pace of the trip is going to start to pick up. We will be moving beyond Prague tomorrow.

Neither Sharon or I slept well. We were up and moving around just after 5 am. I did a 10 minute Peloton core workout in the room.

After a nice buffett breakfast in the hotel, we joined the Viknig "Panoramic Prague" walking tour at 8:20 am. It was a fairly large group (20ish?). Walking from the hotel, we explored Old Town, the Charles Bridge and Lesser Town. The guide was very good; she talked a lot about history and architecture.


After a stop in Lesser Town at a cafe, Viking bussed the group up to the Strahov Monastery. We walked down to the Prague Castle. Sharon and I were both disappointed that we didn't get to see the inside of Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral.

At the end of the castle tour, Sharon and I plus one other couple (Marty and Sandy) split off for the Viking "Privileged Access: Lobkowicz Palace" tour. This included lunch, a concert and a guided tour of the art gallery.


After the tour of the art gallery, they bussed us back to the hotel.

I ended up taking a 45 minute nap.

Eventually, we headed back to the Old Town Square. Sharon wanted to watch the Astronomical Clock at the top of the hour. We stopped at the Black Angel Bar for a drink; the bar is featured in Dan Brown's Secret of Secrets.

We finished the night with dinner at the Restaurant 420. The guide had mentioned it in the morning when we were walking through the Old Town Square. It is listed in the Michelin Guide.

We split Roasted mushrooms [Cumin, pickled chanterelles, egg, brioche] as a starter. For entrees, I had Veal schnitzel [Viennese potato salad, lamb’s lettuce], while Sharon had Confit rabbit leg [Semolina dumplings, carrots, cream sauce].

By the time we walked back to the room and crashed it was after 10 pm.