2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #15 - Cork, Ireland

Day 12: Transfer to Cork, Blarney Castle, Muckross House

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: As we commence our transfer by motorcoach to Cork, we will stop at Muckross House for a docent-led exploration. This magnificent Victorian mansion is situated close to the eastern shore of Muckross Lake at the heart of Killarney National Park. Muckross House today is home to a research library that documents the history, folklife, and culture of Kerry.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: Next, we’ll continue our journey to Cork, via Blarney Castle - home of the world-famous Blarney Stone. Tradition dictates that the gift of eloquence is conferred on all those who kiss the stone! We’ll then ride on to Cork City, Ireland’s second largest city. Founded in the 7th century, it is today a bustling, lively little city. Upon arrival, we’ll check into the hotel.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 65 miles, approximately 2.5 hours. Walking about 2.5 miles, periods of standing; varied terrain including paved streets, uneven grassy areas, gravel paths; steps to some areas at Blarney Castle, stone spiral staircases.

Accommodations: Imperial Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Up at 6:00 am, I did a ten minute Peloton core workout. We put our bags in the hall at 7:30 am.

I went down to breakfast at 8:00 am. I took some food back to the room for Sharon; her cough is slightly worse.
We loaded the bus at 9:00 am. It was a short drive to the Muckross House. It is a 19th-century Tudor-style mansion situated within Killarney National Park. Located roughly four miles south of Killarney. It sits along the shores of Muckross Lake.

The house was built between 1839 and 1843 for Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife, the artist Mary Balfour Herbert. The 65-room mansion was designed by Scottish architect William Burn.

Queen Victoria stayed at Muckross House in August 1861. Extensive and costly alterations—including redecorating rooms, landscaping the gardens, and building a dedicated wing—were undertaken in preparation for her visit.
The house has a very Downton Abbey feel. After touring the house, we walked the gardens. The property borders the National Park with an extensive set of trails. It would have been nice to have had more time to explore the area.
Back on the bus, we headed southeast. We had lunch in the Mill Restaurant at the Blarney Woolen Mills. I had a cold meat salad, while Sharon had a chickeen caesar salad.

After lunch, we walked to Blarney Castle. The Castle is a medieval stronghold located in Blarney, about 5 miles northwest of Cork. Built in 1446 by Cormac MacCarthy, Lord of Muskerry, it stands on the site of earlier 10th- and 12th-century wooden and stone fortifications.

Set high into the castle's parapet, the Blarney Stone (or the Stone of Eloquence) attracts visitors from around the world. Legend holds that anyone who kisses the stone receives the gift of persuasive speech, or the "gift of the gab." Holly, Van and Sharon went to the top of the castle; only Holly ended up kissing the Blarney stone.

Sharon and I wandered the grounds including the poison garden, the Blarney house and the stream-side trail. Like the Muckross House, there was a large, well maintained area around the castle.

Back on the bus at 4:00 pm, we were at the hotel just after 4:30 pm. We are staying two nights at the Imperial Hotel in Cork.

Unfortunately, I am now getting sick... It seems like almost everyone on the bus has been or is sick.

We met the group for dinner in the hotel at 6:30 pm. I had hake, while Sharon had chicken.

With both of us feeling under the weather, we wandered back to the room and crashed just before 6:30 am.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #14 - Killarney, Ireland

Day 11: Lecture, Ring of Kerry, Kissane Sheep Farm

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: We’ll begin with a talk entitled: A Ramble Down The Ol' Bothrain.

We’ll then board a motorcoach with a local expert for a field trip exploring the Ring of Kerry itself. This celebrated landscape is made up of spectacular coastal and mountain scenery and encompasses the towns of Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, and Sneem.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: Next, we’ll visit the family-run Kissane Sheep Farm in Kenmare, County Kerry. A traditional working farm with approximately 1,000 mountain sheep and hundreds of lambs, it is run by John and Anne Kissane, and has been in the hands of the same family for the last 150 years. One of the farmers will lead us around the fields and yards, explaining efforts to preserve the heritage of Irish mountain sheep farming; we’ll see some of the seasonal activities that take place on the farm.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: Returning to the hotel, the remainder of the evening is at leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 105 miles, approximately 5 hours. Walking about 3 miles, periods of standing; varied terrain including paved streets, grass, uneven rocky areas, stone paving, gravel paths.

Accommodations: Arbutus Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

With Sharon restless and sick, we were up and moving around just after 5:30 am. I did a ten minute Peloton bodyweight workout. We wandered down to breakfast in the hotel at 8:00 am. We both had scramble eggs and salmon.

At 9:00 am, we joined the group in the lobby and walked to a nearby hotel. We had a very good presentation by a retired dairyman-Denis Kissane-on Irish rural life. Born in 1950, we used photos from his life to talk about the rhythm of life for the typical Irish farmer.

I was surprised at how primitive Irish farming in the 1950s and 1960s; they were still using horses. I was also thinking after the presentation that it won't be possible to get the same kind of first hand lecture in a few years.

We boarded the bus about 10:30 am for a panoramic driving tour of the Ring of Kerry. The Ring of Kerry is a iconic 111-mile circular scenic route located on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry. Renowned as one of the country's premier road trips, the route loops through rugged ocean coastlines, dramatic mountain passes, ancient stone fortresses, and vibrant coastal villages. I reminded me a little of our drive around the Trotternish Peninsula on the Isle of Skye, except I didn't have to do the driving!

The lecturer fom the morning rode along and provided a steady stream of commentary. He literally never stopped talking during the first 3/4s of the tour.

We stopped for lunch in Waterville. It is a popular seaside town along Ballinskelligs Bay. It is famously favored as a summer retreat by Charlie Chaplin. I had seafood chowder, while Sharon had some bad fish and chips.

We stopped at Coomakista Pass to pictures. It was windy and overcast.

looking northeasts from Coomakista Pass

looking southwest from Coomakisata Pass

Ladies Rest

About 3/4s of the way around the Ring of Kerry, we stopped at the Kissane Sheep Farm. It is a traditional working hill sheep farm located near Moll's Gap between Killarney and Kenmare. We watched a sheepdog demonstrations. We saw a skilled Border Collie follow complex whistle and voice commands to herd Kerry Hill sheep across the steep mountain terrain. Afterwards, we saw a machine shearing demonstration and learned a little about wool production.

We were back to the hotel about 5:45 pm. Talking to Tom, he compared the trip to a ninth grade field trip. I liked the day a lot more than that...

In spite of fact that she was feeling under the weather, Sharon made it though the day. Getting back to the hotel, she crashed in the room. When I went down to dinner, she stayed in the room. Working with Eileen, the program director, we got the hotel staff to take a tray to the room for her. I had seafood chowder and a tough pork loin for dinner.

I finished the night listening to traditional music with a large group from the tour in Buckley's Bar. The bar is located in the hotel and is owned by the Uncle of Jesse Buckley!?! There is a picture on the wall of her holding her Oscar.

I headed back to the room and crashed just before 9:30 pm.

It is too bad that Sharon was feeling under the weather last two days. Killarney was a cute little town. It would have been fun to explore the nightlife.

We are heading to Cork tomorrow.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #13 - Killarney, Ireland

Day 10: Transfer to Killarney. The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: We’ll check out of the hotel, board the motorcoach, and begin our transfer to Killarney. En route, we will stop for field trips to explore two of Ireland’s most incredible natural phenomena.

We will begin at the Burren, where a local expert will lead us through one of the largest karst limestone landscapes in Europe. The Burren — meaning “rocky place” — is what remains of a tropical sea from 350 million years ago. Geologists, botanists, and zoologists flock to this region to learn about its rare flora and fauna.

Here at the Burren, a local expert will lead us on a hike through one of the largest karst limestone landscapes in Europe.

Our next field trip will take us to the spectacular, world-famous Cliffs of Moher. The cliffs rise like a cathedral into the sky some 700 feet over the wild Atlantic Ocean, with views stretching as far as Galway Bay and the Aran Islands. Human activity here dates back at least 2,000 years. After an introduction by our Group Leader, we’ll have some time for self-directed exploration at the visitor center.

The Burren together with the Cliffs of Moher forms a UNESCO-designated Global Geopark.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: We’ll then ride on to Killarney, a thriving town nestled into the beautifulv Macgillycuddy Reeks mountain range, and home to Ireland’s first National Park. Upon arrival, we’ll check into the hotel. The remainder of the afternoon is free for independent exploration or to relax.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 170 miles, approximately 5 hours. Walking approximately 2.5 miles, periods of standing; varied terrain including paved streets and paths, flat grassy areas, uneven limestone surfaces. Main routes at Cliffs of Moher include numerous steps, alternative step-free access is available

Accommodations: Arbutus Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Moving day! We are jumping from Galway to Killarney.

Up at 6:00 am, I did a short five minute Peloton core workout. I have been scrambling every morning to organize pictures and write my blog entry for the day every morning. As I say every trip, I have to figure out how to streamline the process. We put the bags in the hall at 7:30 am and went to the buffet breakfast in the hotel.

We were on the bus at 8:30 am. There are two major stops today: the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher.

The first stop was the Burren. The famous exposed limestone pavement of the Burren in County Clare was once heavily covered in trees, with Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) and hazel dominating the uplands alongside oak, elm, and birch. When Ireland's early farmers settled in the area, they cut down and burned the forests to clear land for cereal crops and cattle grazing.

We had a guided walking tour with Shane Connolly. He talked about the geology and the botany of the area. Shane was a character.


From there, we headed to the Cliff of Moher. The Cliffs of Moher are one of Ireland’s most iconic and visited natural landmarks. Located on the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare along the Wild Atlantic Way, these dramatic sea cliffs stretch for roughly 9 miles and rise to a maximum height of 702 feet above the Atlantic Ocean.

We did a self guided tour. Sharon and I walked from the visitor center up to O'Brien's Tower. Although I hate heights, there was a chest high wall. The weather was beautiful! The guide told us to take our jackets; we didn't need them.

We had a late lunch at Vaughn's Kilfenora. They served beef stew and mashed potatoes.

After lunch, we walked to see some crosses. Kilfenora, a small village located on the edge of the Burren in County Clare, is historically known as the "City of the Crosses." During the 12th century, Kilfenora was the seat of an important bishopric, which led to the creation of an unusually high concentration of detailed stone High Crosses for such a small site.

Originally, there were at least seven High Crosses standing around the early monastic settlement founded by Saint Fachnan in the 6th century. Today, five major crosses remain preserved in and around the site of St. Fachnan’s Cathedral.

The Doorty Cross is the most famous and artistically complex cross at Kilfenora. Dating to the 12th century, it features carved figures including a bishop or abbot holding a crozier, flanked by two ecclesiastical figures, with a bird beneath their feet—a scene often interpreted as the appointment or blessing of a bishop. On the reverse side is a depiction of Christ entering Jerusalem on a donkey over intricate interlace patterns.

Back on the bus, it was 2 1/2 hours to Killarney. We made one stop in the historic village of Adare in County Limerick, Ireland where the 2027 Rider Cup will be played at the Adare Manor Golf Course.

We pulled up to the Arbutus Hotel about 5:45 pm. The hotel is centrally located in the city.

Sharon and I had dinner with the group in the hotel. We both had salmon and mashed potatoes.

After dinner, Van and I walked around the area scouting for somewhere to listen to music tomorrow night.

I crashed just after 9:30 pm. Unfortunately, Sharon is now getting sick!

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #12 - Galway, Ireland

Day 9: Galway City, Free Time

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: A local expert will join us at the hotel for an informative lecture on the Celts and the West of Ireland.

Galway, the fourth largest city in the Republic of Ireland, is known as “City of the Tribes” from the medieval era when it was governed by fourteen chieftains. Remnants of Galway’s historic past can be found around every corner. Today Galway is highly popular with bohemians and students alike. A local historian will lead us on a walking field trip to learn more of the city’s fascinating history and heritage.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: Free time. On your own to see and do what interests you most. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions.

Dinner: On your own to enjoy what you like.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Note: Walking about 2 miles, periods of standing; paved streets, some cobbled areas. Extent and duration of walking and other activities during free time according to personal choice.

Accommodations: Flannery's Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch

Up at 6:30 am, I had a better night's sleep. I did a ten minute Peloton bodyweight strength workout. Sharon and I had a buffet breakfast at the hotel.

We joined the group at 9:00 am for a lecture by Chris Doyle on the transition from Pagan to Christian in Ireland. Unfortunately, I had some trouble staying awake...

At 10:15 am, we boarded a bus for downtown Galway. Galway is a vibrant, harborside city on Ireland’s west coast. It is famous for its rich history, lively traditional Irish music scene, and bohemian, artistic energy. Located where the River Corrib meets Galway Bay, it serves as both a major cultural center and the primary gateway to the scenic landscapes of Connemara and the Aran Islands.

To my surprise, Galway is listed by some sources as the second most visited city in Ireland, behind Dublin. Over the course of the first two days, I was shocked at the amount of traffic.

We did a long walking tour of the old city With Gary Casey. The tour started at Eyre Square. The square is a central public park featuring historic monuments, surrounding shopping districts, and open green spaces. The tour guide started the tour talking a lot about John F. Kennedy. All eight of his great grandparents came from Ireland. JFK visited Galway in June of 1963 and spoke in the square.

From there, the walk explored the Latin Quarter. It is the colorful, historic heart of the city, packed with local boutiques, artisanal cafes, medieval archways, and traditional pubs. Some of the stops along the way included: a 180 feoot section of the old city walls with two towers--the Penrice's Tower and the Shoemaker's Tower; the Lynch Memorial; and, the Hall of the Red Earl. We finished the tour just past the Spanish Arch at the Galway City Museum.

There is an odd monument to Christopher Columbus near the Spanish Arch. Apparently, he visited the city in 1477.

During the tour, the guide mentioned that Galway is a major hub for medical technology. Companies located in Galway include Boston Scientific and Medtronic.

The group had lunch at Caprice. Sharon had vegan tacos, while I had chicken rigatoni.

The rest of the day was free time. Sharon and I spent the afternoon shopping. We bought Claddagh Rings to celebrate our upcoming 30th wedding anniversary.

Although I guess that I shouldn't have been, I was shocked at the number of people. By the middle of the afternoon, High Street was packed with people.

We finished the day with an early dinner at Rúibín Bar & Restaurant. Originally, Holly and Van were scheduled to join us, but Holly has gotten sick over the last day. The restaurant is a acclaimed casual fine-dining destination located on the historic docklands in Galway City. Housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century stone building right on the waterfront, it is run by husband-and-wife duo Richard Shannon and Alice Jary. The restaurant overlooks the docks near Spanish Arch and Quay Street, combining a relaxed ground-floor bar with a brighter, scenic upstairs dining space.

We started with Oysters, Shitake & tofu dumplings [miso broth, szechuan] and Seabass collima ceviche [carrot & blood orange, pumpkin seed salsa matcha, tostada]. For mains, I had duck breast, while Sharon had eggplant. Her eggplant was not cooked enough.

We caught a Uber back to the hotel. We crashed early; lights were out before 9:30 pm.

We are moving on Killearney tomorrow.

 

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #11 - Galway, Ireland

Day 8: Connemara, Cnoc Suain Heritage Centre, Kylemore Abbey
Monday, September 21

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: Today we’ll travel by motorcoach for a full day exploring Connemara. A broad peninsula between Killary Harbour and Kilkieran Bay in the west of County Galway, Connemara has long been regarded as the real emerald of Ireland. We’ll begin at the award-winning Cnoc Suain Heritage Centre where local experts will provide insights into the rural folklore, traditions, and way of life in the west of Ireland. We’ll also observe a demonstration of traditional Irish bread baking. Moving on, we’ll explore the sleepy seaside villages of Connemara stopping at Lough Inagh Lodge in the village of Recess. We’ll sip an Irish coffee in this beautiful old fishing lodge nestled on the shores of Lake Inagh.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: We’ll continue by motorcoach to Kylemore Abbey passing by Ireland's only Fjord at Killary Harbour. Kylemore Abbey in the heart of Connemara, this beautifully designed estate was built in 1867 as a private home and became a Benedictine abbey in 1920. We’ll learn from our Group Leader about the rich history and experience the oasis that is the walled garden, one of the last created in Ireland during the Victorian era. Although it fell into disrepair over time, the Benedictines began an authentic restoration in the late 1990s and only a few years later won a prestigious European award for their work.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: We’ll return to Galway by motorcoach after dinner. The remainder of the evening is at leisure.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 130 miles, approximately 4.5 hours. Walking about 3 miles, periods of standing; paved streets, tarmac and gravel paths, some uneven grassy areas.

Accommodations: Flannery's Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

I was up before 6 am. With two late nights, I have not gotten enough sleep, my Oura sleep debt is up to 5 hours and 40 minutes.

I did a ten minute core Peleton workout in the room. AFterwards, we had a buffet breakfast in the hotel.

We were on the bus at 9 am. The plan for day was exploring the Connemara. It is a region situated on the Atlantic coast in western County Galway. Often described by Oscar Wilde as a "savage beauty," Connemara is renowned for its vast boglands, dramatic quartzite mountain ranges, jagged coastline, and deep-rooted Gaelic heritage.

The first stop was Cnoc Suain (which translates from Irish to "Restful Hill"). It is a family-owned cultural heritage site and 200-acre nature sanctuary. Located in an Irish-speaking (Gaeltacht) region just outside Spiddal, it offers an authentic, immersive look at traditional rural Irish life, Gaelic culture, and ecological stewardship.

We had a series of presentations on life in the area. It included the Gaelic language and harvesting peat from the bog.


Mary Bergin talked about Irish music and played several songs on the tin whistle. She is widely recognized as one of the greatest masters of the Irish tin whistle. Often credited with single-handedly elevating the tin whistle from a simple folk instrument to a front-and-center, premier solo instrument in traditional Irish music, her virtuosity, speed, and crisp ornamentation set the standard for generations of whistle players.

Eight of us, including Sharon and I, got up. They taught us an Irish dance. I have two left feet... Apparently, someone took a video.

We stopped for lunch at the Lough Inagh Lodge. We had soup and an assortment of small sandwiches. After lunch, they did a demonstration of making an Irish Whiskey.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Kylemore Abbey. It is a striking 19th-century estate nestled against the slopes of Druchruach Mountain on the shores of Pollacappul Lough. Originally built as a lavish private castle, it later became a Benedictine monastery and international girls' boarding school, and today it serves as one of Ireland's most visited historic sites. We toured the castle, the Neo-gothic Church and the Victorian garden.


We got back to the hotel about 5:45 pm. Sharon and I had a drink in the bar with Mike and Chris before dinner.

Joining the group dinner in the hotel, Sharon and I sat with Bill and Janet and Lamar and Janet. We had not talked much with them before. Both Sharon and I had pork loin.

Working to finish my blog entry for the previous, we crashed just before 10:00 pm.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #10 - Galway, Ireland

Day 7: Transfer to Galway, Yeats at Drumcliffe
Sunday, September 20

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: Once checked out from the hotel, we’ll begin our transfer by motorcoach for Galway – the cradle of Gaelic culture in the West and often referred to as the “city of tribes” as it was home to 14 famous merchant families.

We’ll make a stop at Drumcliffe, the final resting place of famed Irish poet W.B Yeats. Yeats is remembered as an important cultural leader, as a major playwright and as one of the very greatest poets of the century. The epitaph on his gravestone is well known: “Cast a cold eye / On life / On death / Horseman, pass by!” We’ll be joined on our journey through Yeats country by a local literary expert, who will interpret the landscape and read some of Yeats’ associated poetry.

Lunch: At a local restaurant or pub.

Afternoon: We’ll then complete our transfer to Galway and check into the hotel upon arrival.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 170 miles, approximately 4.5 hours. Walking about 1 mile, periods of standing; paved and gravel paths.

Accommodations: Flannery's Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Moving day. This is the longest transfer between two cities that we are going to do on the trip. We are jumping south from Derry to Galway.

Up at 6 am, I did a ten minute Peloton bodyweight workout. We had a buffet breakfast in the hotel.

We were on the bus before 8:30 am. Unlike the OATS trip, we have had a different bus every day on the tour.

The day included a number of stops that were not included on the itinerary.

• Creevykeel Court Tomb is widely regarded as one of the best-preserved and most impressive Neolithic court tombs in Ireland. It was built between 4000 BC and 2500 BC.
• Glencar Waterfall is a 50-foot ]waterfall situated near Glencar Lough in County Leitrim]. Surrounded by lush woodland, it is one of the most famous and accessible waterfalls in Ireland. The waterfall is famously immortalized in W.B. Yeats’ poem "The Stolen Child."
• The grave of the Nobel Prize-winning Irish poet William Butler Yeats.
• The Drumcliffe Round Tower is the only surviving round tower in County Sligo. Built around the 10th or 11th century, the tower was part of the original 6th-century monastic settlement founded by St. Columba.
• The Drumcliffe High Cross at St. Columba’s Churchyard in County Sligo is a sandstone Celtic cross dating back to around the 9th or 10th century. It is the sole surviving complete high cross from the early Christian monastery founded on the site by St. Colmcille (St. Columba) around 574 AD.
• drumcliff St. Columba's Church is an active Church of Ireland parish church that sits on an ancient monastic site dating back to the 6th century. Columba went on to establish the monastery at Iona. We visited Iona in 2023.
• Knock Shrine is Ireland's national Marian shrine and ranks among Europe's major Catholic pilgrimage destinations alongside Lourdes and Fatima. On the evening of August 21, 1879, fifteen local villagers (ranging in age from 5 to 75) witnessed an apparition on the exterior south gable wall of the parish church of St. John the Baptist. Unlike most Marian apparitions where Mary appears alone and speaks, this was a silent tableau. The witnesses saw life-sized, luminous figures of the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph, and Saint John the Evangelist, along with an altar bearing a lamb and a cross surrounded by angels. There were 7,000 to 8,000 people at the site!

Along the way, we had lunch at The Swagman in Sligo. We both had chowder and a ham and cheese sandwich.

We finally got to the hotel just before 5 pm. It was a long day in the bus, but the Irish countryside was beautiful.

Getting cleaned up, Holly, Van, Sharon and I caught an Uber to dinner. We went to The Pullman Restaurant. It is a unique fine-dining destination set aboard two original 1920s Orient Express railway carriages, permanently converted and situated within the grounds of the Glenlo Abbey Hotel & Estate on the outskirts of Galway City. The carriages—named Leander and Linda—boast rich historical heritage, having once served as part of the premier luxury train network across Europe and featured in the 1974 film Murder on the Orient Express.

We had a seven course tasting menu. The menu is here. Sharon rated the food at the Artis Restaurant last night as better.

After dinner, we caught a cab back to hotel. It was almost 11:30 pm by the time we crashed. Two late nights in a row!

Creevykeel Court Tomb
Glencar Waterfall
Irish poet William Butler Yeats grave
Drumcliffe Round Tower
Drumcliffe High Cross
drumcliff St. Columba's Church
Knock Shrine

Pullman Restaurant Tasting Menu

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #9 - Derry, Northern Ireland

Day 6: Derry’s City Walls, An Grianan of Aileach

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: We’ll board a motorcoach for a field trip to Grianán of Aileach, a stone hillfort constructed in the 6th or 7th century CE. The fort was severely damaged during conflict in the early 12th century, and sat as a ruin for hundreds of years until being restored in 1870. During our expert-led exploration, we’ll trace the history of the site within the context of Viking occupation, Norman invasion and native rule.

We’ll reboard the motorcoach and return to Derry, then set out on an expert-led walking field trip around the city. Derry is the only remaining city in Ireland with virtually complete walls surrounding the old inner core. The walls were erected early in the 17th century as defenses against encroaching English and Scottish settlers. Today, they serve as a walkway to observe the combination of heritage and contemporary culture within the Renaissance Style street plan.

Lunch: At a local restaurant or pub.

Afternoon: Free time. This period of time has been set aside for your personal independent exploration to see and do what interests you most. Please refer to the list of Free Time Opportunities. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 18 miles, approximately 1 hour. Walking about 1.5 miles, periods of standing; wooden boardwalks, some uneven grassy areas; uneven stone steps to some areas at Grianán of Aileach. Extent of walking and other activities during free time according to personal choice.

Accommodations: Waterfoot Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Up and moving before 6:30 am, I did a 10 minute Peloton core workout. We had a buffet breakfast at 8 am in the hotel.

We were on the bus at 9 am. The first stop was the Grianan of Aileach. We had a local guide. It is a historic ringfort located on Greenan Mountain in County Donegal, Ireland, just west of Derry. The primary structure is a large circular stone cashel (ringfort) dating to the 8th or 9th century. It was built upon the site of an earlier Bronze Age or Iron Age hillfort. Historically, it served as the royal seat and stronghold of the Northern Uí Néill dynasty, who ruled the kingdom of Aileach.

Next, we stopped with the guide at St Aengus Church. Consecrated in 1967, the Roman Catholic church was designed by the celebrated Irish modernist architect Liam McCormick. He directly modeled its circular layout and low-profile stone aesthetic on the ancient ringfort above it.


We stopped at Inch Island for a comfort break and coffee.

A group of us walked part of the Inch Wildfowl Reserve Loop. We walked just over a mile before the bus picked us up.

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Heading back to Derry, we did a guided walking tour of the city walls. The Derry Walls encircle the historic core of Derry and stand as one of the finest examples of a completely walled city in Europe. Built between 1613 and 1619 by The Honourable The Irish Society, the defensive stone and earthen ramparts were constructed to protect English and Scottish settlers during the Plantation of Ulster.


Derry was the epicenter of the troubles. Hundreds of commercial properties were destroyed across Derry's historic walled city. Major targets included the Derry Courthouse, banks, post offices, and department stores.

We had lunch at the Bentley Bar. I had a hamburger, while Sharon had fish and chips.

After lunch, Sharon and I did the Bogside Murals walk. The Catholic Bogside was the tinderbox of the modern Troubles in Northern Ireland. Bloody Sunday sparked a sectarian inferno. The events are memorialized in about a dozen murals. At some point in the future, I am going to post all twelve of the murals in a blog post.


Afterwards, we caught a taxi back to the hotel. After getting cleaned up, we called a taxi to take Holly, Van, Sharon and I to dinner. The Waterfoot is a couple of miles from the old city.

We had dinner at the Artis Restaurant by Phelim O' Hagan (often referred to as Artis, from the Latin word for "craft"). It is a fine-dining establishment located in the Craft Village in central Derry. Founded by Chef Phelim O'Hagan—a former finalist on BBC’s Great British Menu—it is widely considered one of the top culinary destinations in the North West of Ireland and is featured in the Michelin Guide. The restaurant offers an elegant dining room set within the atmospheric, cobblestoned Craft Village off Shipquay Street.

We had the tasting menu. The food was very good. Sharon said that it was better than The Muddlers Club in Belfast. It was a four hour dinner!?!


We had a minor adventure getting home. The restaurant called us a cab. Once we got in, we realized that it only took cash. We had to stop at an ATM.

By the time we got back to the hotel and in bed, it was after 11:30 pm. Oy Vey...

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #8 - Derry, Northern Ireland

Day 5: Transfer to Derry, Giant’s Causeway
Friday, September 18

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: After checking out of the hotel, we’ll board the motorcoach and begin our transfer to Derry, stopping en route at the Giant’s Causeway. This natural amphitheatre — a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site — is made up of hexagonal-shaped basalt rocks. We will begin in the capable hands of a National Trust expert as we explore the site, then have some independent time to see what interests each of us most at this breathtaking natural phenomenon.

Lunch: At a local restaurant or pub.

Afternoon: Back aboard the motorcoach, we’ll complete our transfer to Derry and check in to the hotel with some time to relax before dinner.

2026 Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 105 miles, approximately 3.5 hours. Walking about 2.5 miles, periods of standing; paved streets and paths, some uneven grassy areas. It is possible to walk on the uneven hexagonal “steps” of the basalt formation at Giant’s Causeway. There are routes that involve minimal changes of level; shuttles available from visitor center to Causeway to reduce walking distance.

Accommodations: Waterfoot Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Moving Day...

Up at 6 am, we packed up the room and had the suitcases in the hall before 7:30 am. I did a ten minute bodyweight Peleton workout.

After breakfast in the hotel, we boarded the bus at 8:30 am. The plan for the day is the Giant's Causeway.

We made a photo stop at Dunluce Castle. The castle is a dramatically situated medieval stronghold perched on a steep basalt outcrop along the Antrim coastline of Northern Ireland. Accessible only by a narrow stone bridge spanning a deep chasm, it remains one of the most iconic and photogenic historical ruins in the region.


We got to the Giant's Causeway about 10:30 am. It is Northern Ireland's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site is located near the town of Bushmills. It is famous for its striking geological formations consisting of around 40,000 interlocking basalt columns that extend from the cliffside into the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the columns are hexagonal, though some have four, five, seven, or eight sides. The columns were formed roughly 50 to 60 million years ago during intense volcanic activity.

We did a guided tour from the visitors center down to the causeway. It rained off and on while we were there. It would have been nice if it had been a nice day and we had more time to hike the area. I liked the experience more than Sharon did; she was a little underwhelmed. We were back on the bus about 12:30 pm.


According to Celtic myth, the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool) built a physical bridge or causeway across the sea to cross over to Scotland and face his rival giant, Benandonner. On Staffa, the dramatic sea cave formed by these same basalt columns became known as Fingal’s Cave (derived from Fionnghall, the Scottish Gaelic variation of Finn MacCool). We visited Staffa in 2023!

We had lunch at the nearby Bushfoot Golf Course. It was a a carvery meal. A chef standing at a carving station slices fresh, slow-roasted joint meats—such as roast beef, turkey, gammon/ham, or pork—directly onto your plate. I bought a Bushfoot ball marker in the pro shop.

From there, we headed to Derry. We are spending three nights at the Waterfoot Hotel. Thankfully, it turned out to be nicer than the Leonardo Hotel in Belfast; the room was cleaner and bigger.

Trying to cut into my Oura sleep deficit, I took a short nap. Afterwards, Sharon and I went out for walk. We haven't gotten enough steps over the last three days. We walked 1.8 miles down to the Foyle River and back in just under 50 minutes.

We finished the day with dinner at the hotel. I had chicken, while had salmon.

After two fairly late nights, we crashed early. We were in bed with the lights out before 9:30 pm.