Tuesday, September 17, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #8 - To Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Day 6 - Travel to Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina • Explore Mostar
• Destination: Sarajevo
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
• Accommodations: Hotel President or similar
Activity Note: Today, we'll cross the border from Croatia to Bosnia & Herzegovina. Please be aware that you will need your passport for all border crossings, and that sometimes crossing the border can take longer than expected as lines can be long and busy.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, with European options.
Morning: Today, we say "dovidenja" (goodbye) to Dubrovnik as we depart our hotel around 8:30am for our drive to Bosnia & Herzegovina. As we journey north and inland into Bosnia, we'll cross the border around 10am. If we're lucky and crowds are light, we'll be through in about 20 minutes; if it's a busy day, expect the crossing to take up to an hour. Once we're past the border, we'll continue to Mostar, arriving around 11:45am.
Upon arrival, we'll enjoy a discovery walk through Mostar with our Trip Experience Leader, lasting approximately one hour. Established by the Ottoman Turks in the late 15th century, the ancient town of Mostar became a place where the cultures of the Middle East and Europe mingled, blending influences from the mainland and the Adriatic Sea. Mostar is named for the former watchtower keepers (mostari in Bosnian) of its historic bridge. A masterpiece of Ottoman Turkish architecture, the 16th-century bridge has long spanned the Neretva River, whose waters divided the town into Muslim and Croat sections. Destroyed in 1993 during the breakup of the former Yugoslavia, the bridge and Mostar's historic city center were restored in 2004 and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bridge also represents a symbol of reconciliation and continued peace for the region.
Lunch: Around 12:30pm in Mostar at a local restaurant featuring fresh Bosnian and Mediterranean cuisine.
Afternoon: At around 1:30pm, we'll walk to the local Muslim market in Mostar, arriving at around 1:40pm, and taking about 30 minutes to explore. We'll board the coach again at around 2:30pm, and drive about 2.5 hours to Sarajevo (with a 15-minute stop), arriving at our hotel around 5:30pm. Most of the hotels we stay at in the area include an on-site bar and restaurant, with rooms that feature a mini bar, safe, satellite TV, wireless Internet, and a private bath.
Once you check in, you'll have some time to relax and settle into your room before our Trip Experience Leader takes us on a 30-minute orientation walk around Sarajevo at around 6:15pm, pointing out important locations like ATMs, restaurants, and pharmacies.
Dinner: At around 7pm we'll walk to a local restaurant featuring traditional Bosnian fare for an included dinner.
Evening: The rest of the evening is yours to explore Sarajevo. Maybe you'll enjoy a pint at the nearby Sarajevo Brewery, or get an ice cream and stroll Sarajevo's market-lined streets.
• Destination: Sarajevo
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
• Accommodations: Hotel President or similar
Activity Note: Today, we'll cross the border from Croatia to Bosnia & Herzegovina. Please be aware that you will need your passport for all border crossings, and that sometimes crossing the border can take longer than expected as lines can be long and busy.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, with European options.
Morning: Today, we say "dovidenja" (goodbye) to Dubrovnik as we depart our hotel around 8:30am for our drive to Bosnia & Herzegovina. As we journey north and inland into Bosnia, we'll cross the border around 10am. If we're lucky and crowds are light, we'll be through in about 20 minutes; if it's a busy day, expect the crossing to take up to an hour. Once we're past the border, we'll continue to Mostar, arriving around 11:45am.
Upon arrival, we'll enjoy a discovery walk through Mostar with our Trip Experience Leader, lasting approximately one hour. Established by the Ottoman Turks in the late 15th century, the ancient town of Mostar became a place where the cultures of the Middle East and Europe mingled, blending influences from the mainland and the Adriatic Sea. Mostar is named for the former watchtower keepers (mostari in Bosnian) of its historic bridge. A masterpiece of Ottoman Turkish architecture, the 16th-century bridge has long spanned the Neretva River, whose waters divided the town into Muslim and Croat sections. Destroyed in 1993 during the breakup of the former Yugoslavia, the bridge and Mostar's historic city center were restored in 2004 and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bridge also represents a symbol of reconciliation and continued peace for the region.
Lunch: Around 12:30pm in Mostar at a local restaurant featuring fresh Bosnian and Mediterranean cuisine.
Afternoon: At around 1:30pm, we'll walk to the local Muslim market in Mostar, arriving at around 1:40pm, and taking about 30 minutes to explore. We'll board the coach again at around 2:30pm, and drive about 2.5 hours to Sarajevo (with a 15-minute stop), arriving at our hotel around 5:30pm. Most of the hotels we stay at in the area include an on-site bar and restaurant, with rooms that feature a mini bar, safe, satellite TV, wireless Internet, and a private bath.
Once you check in, you'll have some time to relax and settle into your room before our Trip Experience Leader takes us on a 30-minute orientation walk around Sarajevo at around 6:15pm, pointing out important locations like ATMs, restaurants, and pharmacies.
Dinner: At around 7pm we'll walk to a local restaurant featuring traditional Bosnian fare for an included dinner.
Evening: The rest of the evening is yours to explore Sarajevo. Maybe you'll enjoy a pint at the nearby Sarajevo Brewery, or get an ice cream and stroll Sarajevo's market-lined streets.
After six nights in Dubronvik, today is moving day.
I have really enjoyed Dubrovnik; it is a magical city. Unfortunately, I was surprised by the number of people in both Dubrovnik and Kotor. There were a lot of tourist. Based on how people were dressed and the conversations that we were hearing, there were a lot of American tourists. It was a little quieter in the morning and at night. Given that this is the shoulder season, the guide was a little surprised at the size of the crowds.
Apparently, they are limiting the cruise ships to two a day, but one of the cruise ships on Monday was a 3,000 passenger Celebrity ship. It made Sharon and I think about how we are impacting places when we are on a cruise.
In addition to moving away from the crowds, we are glad to be leaving the Hotel Lero. When I asked Wallen about the hotel, he said that it was "good enough." Sharon and I didn't like the room. I didn't feel like the hotel was very clean. It was packed with a large number of tour groups. The morning breakfasts at the buffet remained me of the World Cafe on our Viking Cruise. The hotel wasn't good enough.
Leaving the hotel at 8:30 am, the bus drove north along the Dalmatia Coast. At the Bosnian Border crossing, we turned east into the countryside. I was surprised at how rugged and barren the terrain was.
We stopped for lunch at Mostar. There were a lot of tour buses there! Interestingly, the tour groups were more international, i.e. fewer Americans. We had lunch and then walked down to the river to see the bridge.
The Stari Most (Old Bridge) is an iconic arched stone bridge that spans the Neretva River. It's a symbol of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in 1566 during the Ottoman Empire, the Stari Most replaced an earlier wooden bridge. During the Bosnian War in the 1990s, the bridge was destroyed by shelling. However, it was meticulously rebuilt and reopened in 2004.
We actually got to see a diver jump off the bridge.
As we drove from Mostar to Sarajevo, the countryside got greener. The part of trip following the river was particularly scenic.
It was almost 5:30 pm by the time we got to Sarajevo. We are spending three nights at a Courtyard by Marriott. It is a clean, modern hotel that is located walking distance to the old town.
After getting settled in the room, the group met in the lobby and wandered into the Ottoman Old Town. We finished the day with a group dinner at Đulagin Dvor. There was a traditional Bosanian dinner of Ćevapi. It is considered a national dish of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia. It is a grilled dish of minced meat usually served in groups of five to ten pieces served with a flatbread (lepinja or somun), often with chopped onions, kajmak, ajvar and salt. Still not feeling 100%, Sharon and Holly both skipped dinner.
When I got back to the room, Sharon was watching the Emmys. It was almost eleven by the time that we turned off the television and went to bed.
Monday, September 16, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #7 - Dubrovnik, Croatia
Day 5 Explore Dubrovnik • Controversial Topic: The impact of the Balkan War on Dubrovnik • Farmstead visit
* Destination: Dubrovnik
* Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we will learn about a Controversial Topic when we meet a Balkan War survivor for a firsthand account of how Dubrovnik was battered during its brutal siege, and about how old grudges from that war still linger today. Read more about this eye-opening experience below.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, with European options.
Morning: We'll begin the day at around 9am when we board our private motorcoach and drive to the top of Srd Mountain, which lies just behind Dubrovnik. At 1,352 feet high, this peak offers idyllic views of the surrounding area, which we'll take in from different vantage points throughout our drive. We'll have an opportunity to witness sweeping vistas of Dubrovnik's towers and walls, as well as the steel-blue hue of the Adriatic.
At around 9:45am, we'll arrive at the top of the mountain and walk to the nearby War Museum, where we'll speak with an eyewitness about the Controversial Topic of the Homeland War of the Balkans and the impact it has had —and continues to have— on Dubrovnik, as well as the region. Today, Croatia still contends with having to rebuild war-torn edifices, but beyond crumbling infrastructure, the prejudice and xenophobia at the root of the conflict remains palpable. The location we'll be visiting is a painfully relevant setting for this conversation; considered a strategic war location, the Fortress in Sid Mountain suffered violent attacks from the Serbs, resulting in countless casualties around the area.
We'll learn how this turbulent period has shaped Croatia when we meet with Mira Knezevic, a survivor of the war (if Mira is unavailable, we will be joined by another survivor with a comparable perspective). Born and raised in Korcula, Mira moved to Dubrovnik to attend university, where she studied at the undergraduate and graduate levels. Over the years, she has worked as an educator and currently works as a translator and local guide, developing a deep knowledge of political history in the region. She is particularly informed about the Homeland War of the Balkans, having lived through it, which she'll provide ample background information on before outlining the residual effects that still permeate modern-day Croatian culture.
Following the Allied victory in World War II, Yugoslavia was formed as a federation of six communist republics with borders that divided populations according to ethnicity and background: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, and Slovenia. From the very beginning of this union, Croatia experienced many challenging times—all which led up to the Homeland War of the Balkans (1991-1995). This high-stakes conflict was fought between Croat forces loyal to the government of Croatia, which sought independence from the republic of Yugoslavia, and the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People's Army, which vehemently opposed this secession.
On June 25th, 1991, Croatia officially escalated tensions by defying Serbian rule and declaring independence, after which years of siege, ground combat (often fought by local people who were not affiliated with any kind of military group), and various offensives followed. In 1995, two of these offensives -known as Operation Flash and Operation Storm - effectively ended the war in a victory for Croatia. In the wake of this enormous achievement, the country was sent into a tailspin, with an estimated $37 billion in damaged infrastructure and tens of thousands of people either displaced or killed (most of whom were Muslim Bosniaks and Catholic Croats). Furthermore, by the end of the war, around half of the population had sought asylum in the neighboring country of Bosnia and Herzegovina, leaving Croatia with a broken and dwindling populace. Decades later, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia still works to assist victims, resolve war crimes, and establish punishments for war criminals involved in this prolonged conflict.
This may be a hard conversation, and we will confront the ugly realities of war and nationalism— about what has happened still needs to be done. Approach this experience and personal testimony with an open mind. We'll hear Mira's stories for about 20 minutes, and then have around 45 minutes to ask any additional questions we may have, followed by a few minutes to explore the museum.
At around 11am, we'll walk to the nearby cable car station where we'll descend back down to Dubrovnik.
Lunch: On your own. Check with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas. Perhaps you'll grab a drink at Café Buza, tucked into the Old Town walls, or simply stroll the historic streets.
Afternoon: Enjoy free time to explore the Old City of Dubrovnik this afternoon. Perhaps you'd like to journey through the history of 20th-century Croatia during a visit to the Red History Museum or soak up the medieval charms of St. Joseph Street located inside the defensive stone walls of the city. Or, you might rather spend some time exploring the baroque-style Dubrovnik Cathedral and its renowned array of interior artworks, such as a 16th-century triptych of the Ascension of Mary by the renaissance painter Titian.
Later this afternoon, we'll gather back together and board a private motorcoach for a 1-hour drive to the rural Konavle region outside of Dubrovnik. Here, we'll escape the tourists of Old Town to get a more authentic look at the area with a visit to a private, family-owned farmstead and winery—a recently added feature. Upon our arrival, we'll be welcomed by our host, who will introduce us to the estate. After our introduction, they'll lead us to the wine cellar where we'll enjoy a wine tasting of grappa, prosecco, one local red, and one local white—accompanied by local cheese, olives, and prosciutto-while we learn how all of these delicacies are produced. Then, our host will take us on a walk around the property, stopping at several points to explain the significance of a particular location, as well as how it has evolved throughout the history of the farm.
Dinner: At the family farmstead around 5:45pm, where we'll enjoy farm-fresh food and local music. Tonight's meal will consist of veal (or lamb, if you prefer) served "under the bell," a traditional preparation in which the meat is slow-cooked under a large, iron bell and covered with ashes and embers. The main dish will be served with potatoes and vegetables and followed by homemade apple pie for dessert. As you dine, enjoy the live folk music, and if you'd like, learn how to dance the Lindo, a traditional celebratory dance of Dubrovnik.
Evening: Around 7:30pm, we'll depart for the 30-minute private motorcoach ride back to the hotel. On your last night in Dubrovnik, you'll be free to enjoy the city on your own. Following dinner, perhaps you'll stop at a local restaurant for a nightcap, or consult with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas.
* Destination: Dubrovnik
* Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we will learn about a Controversial Topic when we meet a Balkan War survivor for a firsthand account of how Dubrovnik was battered during its brutal siege, and about how old grudges from that war still linger today. Read more about this eye-opening experience below.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, with European options.
Morning: We'll begin the day at around 9am when we board our private motorcoach and drive to the top of Srd Mountain, which lies just behind Dubrovnik. At 1,352 feet high, this peak offers idyllic views of the surrounding area, which we'll take in from different vantage points throughout our drive. We'll have an opportunity to witness sweeping vistas of Dubrovnik's towers and walls, as well as the steel-blue hue of the Adriatic.
At around 9:45am, we'll arrive at the top of the mountain and walk to the nearby War Museum, where we'll speak with an eyewitness about the Controversial Topic of the Homeland War of the Balkans and the impact it has had —and continues to have— on Dubrovnik, as well as the region. Today, Croatia still contends with having to rebuild war-torn edifices, but beyond crumbling infrastructure, the prejudice and xenophobia at the root of the conflict remains palpable. The location we'll be visiting is a painfully relevant setting for this conversation; considered a strategic war location, the Fortress in Sid Mountain suffered violent attacks from the Serbs, resulting in countless casualties around the area.
We'll learn how this turbulent period has shaped Croatia when we meet with Mira Knezevic, a survivor of the war (if Mira is unavailable, we will be joined by another survivor with a comparable perspective). Born and raised in Korcula, Mira moved to Dubrovnik to attend university, where she studied at the undergraduate and graduate levels. Over the years, she has worked as an educator and currently works as a translator and local guide, developing a deep knowledge of political history in the region. She is particularly informed about the Homeland War of the Balkans, having lived through it, which she'll provide ample background information on before outlining the residual effects that still permeate modern-day Croatian culture.
Following the Allied victory in World War II, Yugoslavia was formed as a federation of six communist republics with borders that divided populations according to ethnicity and background: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, and Slovenia. From the very beginning of this union, Croatia experienced many challenging times—all which led up to the Homeland War of the Balkans (1991-1995). This high-stakes conflict was fought between Croat forces loyal to the government of Croatia, which sought independence from the republic of Yugoslavia, and the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People's Army, which vehemently opposed this secession.
On June 25th, 1991, Croatia officially escalated tensions by defying Serbian rule and declaring independence, after which years of siege, ground combat (often fought by local people who were not affiliated with any kind of military group), and various offensives followed. In 1995, two of these offensives -known as Operation Flash and Operation Storm - effectively ended the war in a victory for Croatia. In the wake of this enormous achievement, the country was sent into a tailspin, with an estimated $37 billion in damaged infrastructure and tens of thousands of people either displaced or killed (most of whom were Muslim Bosniaks and Catholic Croats). Furthermore, by the end of the war, around half of the population had sought asylum in the neighboring country of Bosnia and Herzegovina, leaving Croatia with a broken and dwindling populace. Decades later, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia still works to assist victims, resolve war crimes, and establish punishments for war criminals involved in this prolonged conflict.
This may be a hard conversation, and we will confront the ugly realities of war and nationalism— about what has happened still needs to be done. Approach this experience and personal testimony with an open mind. We'll hear Mira's stories for about 20 minutes, and then have around 45 minutes to ask any additional questions we may have, followed by a few minutes to explore the museum.
At around 11am, we'll walk to the nearby cable car station where we'll descend back down to Dubrovnik.
Lunch: On your own. Check with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas. Perhaps you'll grab a drink at Café Buza, tucked into the Old Town walls, or simply stroll the historic streets.
Afternoon: Enjoy free time to explore the Old City of Dubrovnik this afternoon. Perhaps you'd like to journey through the history of 20th-century Croatia during a visit to the Red History Museum or soak up the medieval charms of St. Joseph Street located inside the defensive stone walls of the city. Or, you might rather spend some time exploring the baroque-style Dubrovnik Cathedral and its renowned array of interior artworks, such as a 16th-century triptych of the Ascension of Mary by the renaissance painter Titian.
Later this afternoon, we'll gather back together and board a private motorcoach for a 1-hour drive to the rural Konavle region outside of Dubrovnik. Here, we'll escape the tourists of Old Town to get a more authentic look at the area with a visit to a private, family-owned farmstead and winery—a recently added feature. Upon our arrival, we'll be welcomed by our host, who will introduce us to the estate. After our introduction, they'll lead us to the wine cellar where we'll enjoy a wine tasting of grappa, prosecco, one local red, and one local white—accompanied by local cheese, olives, and prosciutto-while we learn how all of these delicacies are produced. Then, our host will take us on a walk around the property, stopping at several points to explain the significance of a particular location, as well as how it has evolved throughout the history of the farm.
Dinner: At the family farmstead around 5:45pm, where we'll enjoy farm-fresh food and local music. Tonight's meal will consist of veal (or lamb, if you prefer) served "under the bell," a traditional preparation in which the meat is slow-cooked under a large, iron bell and covered with ashes and embers. The main dish will be served with potatoes and vegetables and followed by homemade apple pie for dessert. As you dine, enjoy the live folk music, and if you'd like, learn how to dance the Lindo, a traditional celebratory dance of Dubrovnik.
Evening: Around 7:30pm, we'll depart for the 30-minute private motorcoach ride back to the hotel. On your last night in Dubrovnik, you'll be free to enjoy the city on your own. Following dinner, perhaps you'll stop at a local restaurant for a nightcap, or consult with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas.
I was not feeling well. I am sure that the squid that I had at lunch in Kotor was not good... Moving slowly, Sharon and I eventually went down to breakfast. I had a couple of pieces of toast.
At 8:45 am, we met the group in the lobby. They loaded all of us into three mini vans and drove us to the top of Mount Srd. We spent the morning at Fort Imperial. The fort was built by Napoleon’s troops in the early 1800s. We had a talk from a survivor of the siege of Dubrovnik during the Croatia War for Independence. There was a follow-up question and answer period. Afterwards, we wandered through the War Museum housed in the fort.
There was a great view of the old city from the panoramic deck surrounding the tram. Have I said recently how much I dislike heights?
Holly, Van, Sharon and I went to the Buza Bar for a cold drink. We were actually able to get a table for four with an umbrella for shade. Unfortunately, Holly started to feel sick!?! Holly and Van headed back to the hotel.
After lunch, Sharon and I caught an Uber back to the hotel.
Rejoing the group in the lobby at 3:00 pm, we were loaded in a sprinter. We finished the day with olive oil and wine tasting and dinner at the Stone Mill. The olive oil tasting discussion was interesting, but Sharon and I were not impressed by the wine. Still feeling under the weather, I ate very little at dinner. Van came to the dinner, but Holly headed up staying at the hotel.
Sunday, September 15, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #6 - Kotor, Montenegro
Day 4 Dubrovnik • Excursion to Kotor, Montenegro
• Destination: Dubrovnik
• Included Meals: Breakfast
• Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Activity Note: Today, we’ll cross the border from Croatia to Montenegro in the morning, and cross back into Croatia in the afternoon. Please be aware that you will need your passport for all border crossings, and that sometimes crossing the border can take longer than expected—up to several hours depending on traffic. Due to the unpredictable nature of these crossings, the timing of today’s activities may vary from the itinerary detailed below.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 6am, featuring European options.
Morning: Around 7 am, we’ll drive about 2.5 hours south for a full-day excursion to Montenegro, a small country that is home to vast natural beauty—from soaring alpine mountains to a rugged coastline dotted with historic cities. Montenegro’s history is unique in this region in that it managed to avoid being conquered by the Ottoman Turks in the 1300s, when they took control of the rest of the Balkans for the next four centuries.
Our first stop, around 9:30 am, is Perast, an ancient village along the Bay of Kotor. We’ll take advantage of our small group size to explore Kotor Bay aboard a private, small boat for an hour-long cruise. Our boat ride takes us south along the bay to the town of Kotor, a well-preserved medieval walled town situated at the head of southern Europe’s deepest natural bay. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kotor’s Stari Grad, or Old Town, is filled with ancient churches and former aristocratic mansions that line narrow, cobbled streets. We'll dismark about 11am and enjoy the sights of Kotor on a 45-minute city tour with a local guide.
After our tour, at around 11:45am, we'll walk with our local guide to the Green Market, located just outside the city walls, arriving at around noon. Here, we'll enjoy some people-to-people interaction as we walk amongst the stalls, chatting to merchants and locals, and stoke our appetites with a tasting of smoked ham and cheese.
Lunch: On your own in Kotor around 12:30pm. Your Trip Experience Leader can provide recommendations on the best restaurants for your culinary preferences.
Afternoon: Enjoy some time on your own to explore Kotor. Then aorund 3:15pm, we'll say goodbye to Montenegro for our return drive to Bubrovnik. We'll arrive back at our hotel around 5:30 pm.
Dinner: On your own in Dubrovnik. Perhaps you’ll sample the city’s famous black risotto (given its color from squid ink), or the region’s beloved mussels and oysters. Whatever your dinner preference, your Trip Experience Leader is sure to have recommendations.
Evening: Tonight, you’re free to continue exploring Dubrovnik on your own. You might walk along the nearby Adriatic, or enjoy a nightcap of rakija (the brandy of the Balkans) with your fellow travelers.
I was up about 5:30 am. I tried to go down to the bar, work on my iPad and let Sharon sleep. Unfortunately, they wouldn't let me sit in the bar until it opened.• Destination: Dubrovnik
• Included Meals: Breakfast
• Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Activity Note: Today, we’ll cross the border from Croatia to Montenegro in the morning, and cross back into Croatia in the afternoon. Please be aware that you will need your passport for all border crossings, and that sometimes crossing the border can take longer than expected—up to several hours depending on traffic. Due to the unpredictable nature of these crossings, the timing of today’s activities may vary from the itinerary detailed below.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 6am, featuring European options.
Morning: Around 7 am, we’ll drive about 2.5 hours south for a full-day excursion to Montenegro, a small country that is home to vast natural beauty—from soaring alpine mountains to a rugged coastline dotted with historic cities. Montenegro’s history is unique in this region in that it managed to avoid being conquered by the Ottoman Turks in the 1300s, when they took control of the rest of the Balkans for the next four centuries.
Our first stop, around 9:30 am, is Perast, an ancient village along the Bay of Kotor. We’ll take advantage of our small group size to explore Kotor Bay aboard a private, small boat for an hour-long cruise. Our boat ride takes us south along the bay to the town of Kotor, a well-preserved medieval walled town situated at the head of southern Europe’s deepest natural bay. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kotor’s Stari Grad, or Old Town, is filled with ancient churches and former aristocratic mansions that line narrow, cobbled streets. We'll dismark about 11am and enjoy the sights of Kotor on a 45-minute city tour with a local guide.
After our tour, at around 11:45am, we'll walk with our local guide to the Green Market, located just outside the city walls, arriving at around noon. Here, we'll enjoy some people-to-people interaction as we walk amongst the stalls, chatting to merchants and locals, and stoke our appetites with a tasting of smoked ham and cheese.
Lunch: On your own in Kotor around 12:30pm. Your Trip Experience Leader can provide recommendations on the best restaurants for your culinary preferences.
Afternoon: Enjoy some time on your own to explore Kotor. Then aorund 3:15pm, we'll say goodbye to Montenegro for our return drive to Bubrovnik. We'll arrive back at our hotel around 5:30 pm.
Dinner: On your own in Dubrovnik. Perhaps you’ll sample the city’s famous black risotto (given its color from squid ink), or the region’s beloved mussels and oysters. Whatever your dinner preference, your Trip Experience Leader is sure to have recommendations.
Evening: Tonight, you’re free to continue exploring Dubrovnik on your own. You might walk along the nearby Adriatic, or enjoy a nightcap of rakija (the brandy of the Balkans) with your fellow travelers.
Sharon and I had a quick breakfast at 6:45 am. We were in a sprinter with the group at 7:45 am. It was a two and half hour drive to Perfast on the Bay of Kotor. We spent about thirty minutes in line for password control at the Montenegro border.
We boarded a boat at Perfast and motored to Kotor. The scenery was very unique. The mountains surrounding the bay are very steep.
Afterwards, Holly, Van, Sharon and I had lunch at Pescaria Dekaderon. Sharon and Holly had Pizza, while Van and I had squid dish. Mine was squid stuffed cheese and prosciutto.
Sharon and I toured the The Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, including the treasury of relics. We met the group to head back to Dubrovnik about 2:00 pm.
Driving back on a different road, we pulled up to an empty Croatia border crossing. We were back at the Hotel Lero about 5:00 pm.
Holly, Van, Sharon and I took an Uber into the old city. We finished the night with dinner at Restaurant Kopun. We all had Dubrovnik Capon. Although restaurant has a Michelin Plate, Sharon and I didn't think that the food was very good.
Taking an Uber back to the hotel, we crashed just before 10 pm. It was a long day. I was feeling very under the weather.
Saturday, September 14, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #5 - Dubrovnik, Croatia
Day 3 Explore Dubrovnik
* Destination: Dubrovnik
* Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, featuring European options.
Morning: Around 9am, we'll gather for a Welcome Briefing with our Trip Experience Leader in the hotel. During this 45-minute briefing, we will introduce ourselves and review our itinerary in more detail (including any changes that may need to occur). Our Trip Experience Leader will also discuss logistics, safety and emergency procedures, and answer questions we may have — this is your chance to get them answered firsthand, whether you have questions about a particular optional tour, how much free time you'll have during your first stay in Dubrovnik, specific activities or places you are hoping to see, and beyond.
Then around 10am, we'll board a city bus and ride by public transportation to the gates of Dubrovnik's Old Town, Croatia's crowning jewel, arriving around 15 minutes later. Situated on a rocky spur at the country's southernmost tip, Dubrovnik is renowned for its medieval walls and historic monuments. Today, Dubrovnik's character reflects its storied past as an independent city-state that rivaled Venice. Also known by its Latin name, Ragusa, this was a fortress city that served as the base for a fleet of ships that carried trade between much of Europe and the Middle East. The city-state's period of autonomy extended from 1358 to 1808 and endowed it with a wealth of historic architecture.
In spite of heavy damage sustained during the breakup of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, the city has regained its former splendor with the help of UNESCO. O.A.T. contributed to the restoration of Dubrovnik's main promenade, the Placa, through a donation from Grand Circle Foundation. Around 10:45am, we'll meet our local guide and embark on a 45-minute walking tour which includes visits to the fortified town center. We'll also stop by the local market, where we'll have the opportunity to get to know a few of the vendors and shoppers, and try a few local specialties like arancini (sweet candied orange peels).
Our tour ends at a 11:30am, and we'll then have an hour before lunch to either explore independently, or join our Trip Experience Leader to discover more of Dubrovnik.
Lunch: Gather at a local restaurant at around 12:30pm for a Welcome Lunch.
Afternoon: Following lunch around 1:30pm, your afternoon is free to explore Dubrovnik. You may wish to remain in Old Town and spend more time along the Placa (also called Stradun), visit the 15th-century Rector's Palace, or walk atop the city's ancient ramparts (a little over a mile in length), where you can enjoy views of the rooftops of Old Town and out into the blue Adriatic. Or, you can return to your hotel and use your all-day bus pass to explore another part of the city.
Dinner: On your own during your free afternoon in Dubrovnik. Perhaps you'll sample one of the many restaurants in Old Town, which often specialize in seafood. You may return to the hotel by city bus whenever you like.
Evening: The rest of the evening is yours to rest, write in your travel journal, or reflect on your day in Dubrovnik.
* Destination: Dubrovnik
* Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, featuring European options.
Morning: Around 9am, we'll gather for a Welcome Briefing with our Trip Experience Leader in the hotel. During this 45-minute briefing, we will introduce ourselves and review our itinerary in more detail (including any changes that may need to occur). Our Trip Experience Leader will also discuss logistics, safety and emergency procedures, and answer questions we may have — this is your chance to get them answered firsthand, whether you have questions about a particular optional tour, how much free time you'll have during your first stay in Dubrovnik, specific activities or places you are hoping to see, and beyond.
Then around 10am, we'll board a city bus and ride by public transportation to the gates of Dubrovnik's Old Town, Croatia's crowning jewel, arriving around 15 minutes later. Situated on a rocky spur at the country's southernmost tip, Dubrovnik is renowned for its medieval walls and historic monuments. Today, Dubrovnik's character reflects its storied past as an independent city-state that rivaled Venice. Also known by its Latin name, Ragusa, this was a fortress city that served as the base for a fleet of ships that carried trade between much of Europe and the Middle East. The city-state's period of autonomy extended from 1358 to 1808 and endowed it with a wealth of historic architecture.
In spite of heavy damage sustained during the breakup of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, the city has regained its former splendor with the help of UNESCO. O.A.T. contributed to the restoration of Dubrovnik's main promenade, the Placa, through a donation from Grand Circle Foundation. Around 10:45am, we'll meet our local guide and embark on a 45-minute walking tour which includes visits to the fortified town center. We'll also stop by the local market, where we'll have the opportunity to get to know a few of the vendors and shoppers, and try a few local specialties like arancini (sweet candied orange peels).
Our tour ends at a 11:30am, and we'll then have an hour before lunch to either explore independently, or join our Trip Experience Leader to discover more of Dubrovnik.
Lunch: Gather at a local restaurant at around 12:30pm for a Welcome Lunch.
Afternoon: Following lunch around 1:30pm, your afternoon is free to explore Dubrovnik. You may wish to remain in Old Town and spend more time along the Placa (also called Stradun), visit the 15th-century Rector's Palace, or walk atop the city's ancient ramparts (a little over a mile in length), where you can enjoy views of the rooftops of Old Town and out into the blue Adriatic. Or, you can return to your hotel and use your all-day bus pass to explore another part of the city.
Dinner: On your own during your free afternoon in Dubrovnik. Perhaps you'll sample one of the many restaurants in Old Town, which often specialize in seafood. You may return to the hotel by city bus whenever you like.
Evening: The rest of the evening is yours to rest, write in your travel journal, or reflect on your day in Dubrovnik.
Sharon had a rough night and ended up spending the day in the room.
After a buffet breakfast in the hotel, I went to the orientation meeting at 8:20 am. Our guide walked through the itinerary for trip as well as the ground rules. We did a round robin to introduce ourselves. The group includes five couples and six women.
The group got together at 9:45 am and walked to the bus stop. We took a bus to the Pile Gate. From there, we met a local guide and did a walking tour of the old city. The guide did a nice job outlining the history of the city and talking about the war in the 1990s. She lived through the wars as seven year old. Although I am not sure what limitations the guide have, I thought that the walking tour could have covered a little more of the city.
After the walking tour, the group had lunch at Lucin Kantun. I had seafood rissoto.
After lunch, Holly and Van took off to walk the walls. Striking off on my own, I visited the church next to the Francisian Montesary, the Ethographical Museum and the Rector's Palace.
The Ethnographical Museum showcases the rich cultural heritage of the region. Located in the old grain elevator, the museum offers visitors a glimpse into the traditional way of life of the people of Dubrovnik and its surrounding areas. Highlights include: Traditional Costumes; Household Items, and; Folk Art.
holding the city in his hands
The palace is a blend of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles, with features such as ornate stonework and arched windows. It has a beautiful courtyard, surrounded by arcades and featuring a central fountain.
At this point, I stopped at the Buz Bar for a cold drink. Afterwards, I walked back to the hotel.
Feeling a little better, Sharon got cleaned up and dressed for dinner. Holly, Van, Sharon and I took an Uber to the Police Gate. We finished the day with dinner at the Michelin star Restaurant 360 overlooking the old port harbor. Sharon had TORTELINI [Taleggio cheese / Veal shank / Demi-glace / Sage] and PIGEON [Onion cream / Kohlrabi & pear / Walnut / Caper sauce]. I had the five course tasting menu with the wine pairing. It included:
- MALO MORE [Oysters / XO sauce / Fennel cream / Beurre blanc / Crispy caviar]
- PESKAFONDO [Fried and stuffed calamari / Citrus gel / Smoked sauce]
- POPARA 2.0 [Sea bass / Fish soup / Potatoes au vin / Stuffed mussels]
- KOMARDA [Lamb confit / Fava beans / Sheep yoghurt / Lamb jus]
- MANTALA [Carob biscuit / Bitter orange mousse / Mantala ice cream]
After dinner, we got an Uber from the Polce Gate back to the Hotel Lero. Sharon and I crashed hard just before 10 pm.
Friday, September 13, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #4 - Dubrovnik, Croatia
Day 2 Arrive Dubrovnik, Croatia
* Destination: Dubrovnik, Croatia
* Included Meals: Dinner
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
At your hotel, you'll meet your fellow travelers, including those who took our Albania: Undiscovered Balkans pre-trip extension. Though it depends on the exact hotel where we'll be staying, many will feature an on-site bar, restaurant, wellness center, and spa. Typical rooms include a satellite TV, a mini bar, a safe, wireless Internet access, and a private bath with a hair dryer.
Later, around 4pm, our Trip Experience Leader will introduce us to the area with an approximately 30-minute orientation walk, pointing out locations you may need during your stay in Dubrovnik, such as ATMs, pharmacies, post offices, and restaurants.
Dinner: you will enjoy dinner around 6 pm either at a local restaurant (where our orientation walk will end), or at our hotel, each featuring a selection of international and Croatian fare.
Evening: After dinner around 7:45pm, we'll walk the short distance back to our hotel if we've dined at the restaurant (approximately 10 minutes), where you'll enjoy the rest of the night at leisure. Perhaps you'll enjoy a drink at the hotel bar with your fellow travelers, or stroll along one of Dubrovnik's many seaside promenades.
* Destination: Dubrovnik, Croatia
* Included Meals: Dinner
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
At your hotel, you'll meet your fellow travelers, including those who took our Albania: Undiscovered Balkans pre-trip extension. Though it depends on the exact hotel where we'll be staying, many will feature an on-site bar, restaurant, wellness center, and spa. Typical rooms include a satellite TV, a mini bar, a safe, wireless Internet access, and a private bath with a hair dryer.
Later, around 4pm, our Trip Experience Leader will introduce us to the area with an approximately 30-minute orientation walk, pointing out locations you may need during your stay in Dubrovnik, such as ATMs, pharmacies, post offices, and restaurants.
Dinner: you will enjoy dinner around 6 pm either at a local restaurant (where our orientation walk will end), or at our hotel, each featuring a selection of international and Croatian fare.
Evening: After dinner around 7:45pm, we'll walk the short distance back to our hotel if we've dined at the restaurant (approximately 10 minutes), where you'll enjoy the rest of the night at leisure. Perhaps you'll enjoy a drink at the hotel bar with your fellow travelers, or stroll along one of Dubrovnik's many seaside promenades.
Freedom To Explore: Make the most of your explorations in Dubrovnik on these off-the-beaten path activities. These recommendations are designed by our team of local experts with women travelers in mind.
Discover handcrafted jewelry at Dubrovnik Treasures: Established in 2009, this boutique is owned by a brother and sister duo whose passion for design and craftsmanship turned into a small business. Each piece is a unique work of art inspired by Dubrovnik's rich cultural heritage and uses precious metals and colorful stones, including the region's distinctive Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, and more.
Enjoy a drink and an unforgettable view at Mala Buza Bar: "Buza" translates to "hole-in-the-wall," but this bar isn't your typical dive. Built directly into the rugged cliffs Dubrovnik's city wall, Buza Bar is popular amongst the locals as a place to enjoy a drink while gazing out over the harbor and sea, including lush Lokrum Island off in the distance. The bar doubles as a swimming hole, and you can watch as adventurous young patrons dive off the cliff into the waters below.
Although we had a late night, I had trouble sleeping late. I finally got up about 6:30 am. Sharon slept until after 7 am. We lounged in the room.- How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, about $18 USD one way.
- Hours: 9am-5pm, Saturday-Thursday.
- Cost:
- How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, about $18 USD one way.
- Hours: 9am-2am Saturday-Thursday, closed Friday.
- Cost: Drinks cost about $5 USD each.
Eventually, we got organized and caught an Uber to the Pile Gate. Wandering down The Stradun, we had a light breakfast at Cele. Sharon had the CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST [two croissants served with marmalade, butter, and honey], while I had GRANOLA [Homemade granola made of rolled oats, nuts, honey served with fresh fruits and greek yogurt].
We spent a lazy day wandering the city. Stops included: the Church of Saint Blaise; the Catholic Cathedral; the Serbian Orthodox Church; a drink at the Buza Bar II; lunch at Dubravka 1836 Restaurant and Cafe; the Francisian Montasary; shopping at Dubrovnik Treasures, and; the Love Stories Musuem.
The Church of Saint Blaise is a prominent Roman Catholic church. It is dedicated to Saint Blaise, the patron saint of the city.
The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is a stunning Roman Catholic cathedral located in the heart of the city. After a devastating earthquake struck Dubrovnik in 1667 destroying much of the city, including the previous cathedral, it was rebuilt in built in a Baroque style between 1671 and 1713. It contains an interesting treasury with a number of relics, including "Jesus' diapers!" I read The Relic Master last year and found the subject fascinating. There was also a Titian painting behind the altar and some interesting stations of cross.
We stopped at the Buza Bar. It was actually closed. There were waves breaking on the rocks of the bar. We wandered down to the Buza Bar II, had a cold drink and watched the angry sea.
Within the Franciscan Monastery stone walls are a gorgeous mid-14th-century cloister, a historic pharmacy and a small museum with a collection of relics and liturgical objects, including chalices, paintings and gold jewellery, and pharmacy items such as laboratory gear and medical books.
We had lunch outside the Pile Gate at DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ. I had Octopus salad (octopus, tomatoes, onion, olives, capers, olive oil), while Sharon had Seafood risotto.
The Love Stories Museum is a unique and romantic museum dedicated to celebrating love and relationships. It offers visitors a glimpse into the history of love and courtship, as well as the stories of famous couples associated with the city.
We caught a cab back to the hotel about 4 pm. Holly and Van got to the hotel about the same time. Unfortunately, Van's luggage got lost along the way. Like yesterday afternoon, it started rain heavily within an hour of returnning to the hotel.
We planned to meet Holly and Van in the lobby about 6:40 pm. Unfortunately, Sharon got very physically sick. I think that she has food poisoning from something she ate at lunch.
With the tour leader meeting a group coming from a pre-tour in Albania, the schedule shifted slightly. There was no walking tour before dinner. I ended up join the group for the Welcome Dinner at 7:00 pm and sitting between Holly and Van. The dinner was a buffet dinner in the restaurant at the hotel.
Thursday, September 12, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #3 - Dubrovnik, Croatia
In Dubrovnick two days before the formal start of the OATS tour, we had a wonderful day exploring the city.
Both Sharon and I were up before 6 am. We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel.
With rain in the forecast for the next couple of days, Sharon wanted to walk the city wall this morning. Rick Steves' recommends starting the wall walk at the Ploče Gate. After breakfast, we caught an Uber to this gate.
The fortified Walls, dating back centuries, offer breathtaking panoramic views of the city, the Adriatic Sea, and the surrounding islands. Although I don't like heights, it was pretty amazing. I took us more than an hour and a half to walk the mile and a quarter.
After walking the wall, we did some shopping in the old town. Sharon shopped for jewelry, while I looked for Christmas ornaments. She found something she liked. I didn't find a Christmas ornament that I was satisfied with.
Our next stop was the Buza Bar II. Located outside the wall, the bar has stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. The Gainsleys had raved about the spot.
After a couple of drinks, we wandered to the original Buza Bar. We need to come back to the original Buza Bar in the next several days with Holly and Van.
At this point, we start looking for somewhere to have lunch. We ended up at the GRADSKA KAVANA ARSENAL RESTAURANT on the water in the old town port. I had Fish stew [daily selection of fresh fish / hot sauce / polenta], while Sharon had Sea Bass [Sea bass en papillote / vegetables].
After lunch, we visited the St. Ignatius Church. Also known as the Jesuit Church, is a stunning Baroque masterpiece located in the heart of Dubrovnik. This architectural gem stands out with its impressive facade, intricate details, and magnificent interior.
Wandering towards the Pile Gate, we shopped and stopped at the Church of the Annuication. It is a historic Roman Catholic Church.
Exiting the Pile Gate, we walked back to the hotel. About ten minutes after we got back to the hotel, the thunder storms arrived! As we took a nap, it rained heavily for about two hours.
Getting cleaned up for dinner, we took an Uber back to the Ploče Gate. We walked to Restaurant Dubrovnick. It is Michelin recommended since 2017.
We had the five course tasting menu. The food was excellent. The tasting menu included:
Both Sharon and I were up before 6 am. We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel.
With rain in the forecast for the next couple of days, Sharon wanted to walk the city wall this morning. Rick Steves' recommends starting the wall walk at the Ploče Gate. After breakfast, we caught an Uber to this gate.
The fortified Walls, dating back centuries, offer breathtaking panoramic views of the city, the Adriatic Sea, and the surrounding islands. Although I don't like heights, it was pretty amazing. I took us more than an hour and a half to walk the mile and a quarter.
After walking the wall, we did some shopping in the old town. Sharon shopped for jewelry, while I looked for Christmas ornaments. She found something she liked. I didn't find a Christmas ornament that I was satisfied with.
Our next stop was the Buza Bar II. Located outside the wall, the bar has stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. The Gainsleys had raved about the spot.
After a couple of drinks, we wandered to the original Buza Bar. We need to come back to the original Buza Bar in the next several days with Holly and Van.
At this point, we start looking for somewhere to have lunch. We ended up at the GRADSKA KAVANA ARSENAL RESTAURANT on the water in the old town port. I had Fish stew [daily selection of fresh fish / hot sauce / polenta], while Sharon had Sea Bass [Sea bass en papillote / vegetables].
After lunch, we visited the St. Ignatius Church. Also known as the Jesuit Church, is a stunning Baroque masterpiece located in the heart of Dubrovnik. This architectural gem stands out with its impressive facade, intricate details, and magnificent interior.
Wandering towards the Pile Gate, we shopped and stopped at the Church of the Annuication. It is a historic Roman Catholic Church.
Exiting the Pile Gate, we walked back to the hotel. About ten minutes after we got back to the hotel, the thunder storms arrived! As we took a nap, it rained heavily for about two hours.
Getting cleaned up for dinner, we took an Uber back to the Ploče Gate. We walked to Restaurant Dubrovnick. It is Michelin recommended since 2017.
We had the five course tasting menu. The food was excellent. The tasting menu included:
- Chef's welcoming bite;
- Smoked Eel & mussels / Citrus, honey and olive oil emulsion / Caviar;
- Crunchy ravioli / Baby beef ragout / Brown porcini mushrooms Carpaccio / Corn espuma / Pickled carrot / Red wine reduction;
- Octopus / Sweet corn / Beetroot / Broccoli cream with black Truffle;
- Lamb fillet / Pistachio / Thyme sauce / Three potatoes types terrine / Carrot purée; and,
- Blue poppy seed mousse / Caramel / Anise / Almond.
Wednesday, September 11, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #2 - Dubrovnik, Croatia
Day 2 Arrive Dubrovnik, Croatia
• Destination: Dubrovnik
• Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Afternoon: You'll arrive in the city of Dubrovnik, Croatia this afternoon, based on your specific flight arrangements. Most flights arrive between 12pm and 5pm. Upon arrival, expect to spend about 1.5 hours clearing customs and completing any temperature checks or health guidelines your airline requires. You will then be escorted to your hotel in the city. The transfer is approximately 40 minutes to 1 hour, depending on traffic.
We were on the ground in Frankfurt on time at 10:25 am. It was not the best flight. I tried to sleep but couldn't find a position where my back didn't hurt. Additionally, our economy premium seats were right behind a large space for the exit door next to the bathroom. Several times during the flight a large herd of people gathered. Luckily, we have different seats on the way home from Frankfurt.• Destination: Dubrovnik
• Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Afternoon: You'll arrive in the city of Dubrovnik, Croatia this afternoon, based on your specific flight arrangements. Most flights arrive between 12pm and 5pm. Upon arrival, expect to spend about 1.5 hours clearing customs and completing any temperature checks or health guidelines your airline requires. You will then be escorted to your hotel in the city. The transfer is approximately 40 minutes to 1 hour, depending on traffic.
I really faded between 10 am and 12 pm, essentially 1 am to 3 am California time. This trip seemed hard than the trip to Olso. Sharon noted that this is funny given how much drama we had on that trip.
We had a six hour layover! After wandering around, we had a very leisurely lunch at Lucullus Nero. We both had Insalata Italia [Mixed Salad • Tuna • Cheese • Ham • Olives • Hot Peppers]. I rallied somewhat after lunch.
There was some drama. While the airtags for my bag and Sharon's smaller bag showed up in Frankfurt, Sharon's larger bag had last been seen in San Francisco. Although the Lufthansa app showed that all the bags had made it to Frankfurt, there was a lot of hand wringing.
The flight to Dubrovnick boarded a little late. We were on the ground about 6:20 pm. There was a sigh of relief when all three bags showed up.
A representative of OATS was waiting for us when we exited the baggage claim. Although the driver was not very friendly, it was a beautiful drive from the airport to the hotel along the coast. It was about a 30 minute drive to the hotel.
I had actually forgotten until we got home from the Scandavian trip that we decided to come into Dubrovnik two days early. The OATS tour doesn't actually start until Friday afternoon. We are going to be spending six nights at the Hotel Lero. The hotel is not quite up to Sharon's standards. I will be interesting to see the quality of the hotels on the rest of the trip.
We finished the day with dinner at Marangun Food & Bar Restaurant near the hotel. The food was very good. Sharon had PULLED PORK WITH RICE NOODLES [Slavoninan pig thigh slow baked, torned and served with rice noodles], while I had SMOKED SEAFOOD RISOTTO [risotto with smoked prawns and mussels].
We crashed just after 10 pm.
Tuesday, September 10, 2024
2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #1 - to Dubrovnik, Croatia
Day 1 Depart U.S.
Fly overnight from the U.S. to Dubrovnik, Croatia.
Sharon and I are off wandering the world again. Following in Wallen's footsteps, we are connecting with Holly and Van on Friday for the Overseas Adventure Travel Crossroads of the Adriatic land tour. Over the next twenty days, we will be exploring Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and Slovenia.Fly overnight from the U.S. to Dubrovnik, Croatia.
After some debate, we decide to take a ahuttle to the San Francisco Airport. Partly on Holly's advice, we used El Dorado Express. With some confusion about the gate code, the shuffle was about ten minutes late. Pulling up about 9:40 am, we were on the road at 9:45 am. It took just about two hours to get to the airport.
I was shocked at how quickly we checked our luggage and got boarding passes; there was literally no line. Using Clear and TSA pre, we breezed through security.
We had a leisurely lunch at Mustards in the G Concourse. I had a smoked chicken chopped salad, while Sharon had a lamb burger.
The flight broaded about 30 minutes late. With a six hour layover in Frankfurt, I couldn't care less about how long the flight is late leaving. I just don't want it to be cancelled.
Sharon and I have premium economy seats 21K and 21H. It is a big Boeing 787 with a very odd configuration. Rather than the premium econony seats being right behind business class, there are three rows of economy seats between business class and premium economy. Our seats are right behind a large emergency exit with no seats in front of us. Sharon doesn't like the fact that there is no where to put anything, e.g. the seat back in front of us.
I am writing this using the wifi on the flight as we travel east. I continue to be amazed at how well the wifi works on these long international flights.
Monday, September 09, 2024
Sunday, September 08, 2024
Dinner in the Park
Saturday night, Sharon and I went to Dinner in the Park at Jensen Botanical Garden with our neighbors Jim and Debbie and Greg and Michele. Afterwards, we went to Greg and Michele's house for a nightcap.Saturday, September 07, 2024
2024 Davis Mafia - Day #2
Saturday morning, Chabrier organized a brunch at Cafe Bernardo downtown. It was a smaller group, including Chabrier, Moore, Geselbracht, Wallen, Hunter, Alan and Jeanie and I.
Afterwards, Wallen, Moore and I headed to Club 2 Me for a couple of beers. I really enjoyed having a chance to see Wallen and catch up. I am looking forward to the Army/Navy game in December, but we need to get together more often. Sharon and I need to get a trip to the Northwest or Todos Santos on the calendar. [Note to self], I am going to call Wallen after we get back from the Balkans get something on the calendar.
Chabrier is trying to make this an annual event. He is proposing the weekend after Labor Day for next year: probably Tahoe, maybe Almanor, but September 5th, 6th and 7th next year. We will be in South Africa.
Afterwards, Wallen, Moore and I headed to Club 2 Me for a couple of beers. I really enjoyed having a chance to see Wallen and catch up. I am looking forward to the Army/Navy game in December, but we need to get together more often. Sharon and I need to get a trip to the Northwest or Todos Santos on the calendar. [Note to self], I am going to call Wallen after we get back from the Balkans get something on the calendar.
Chabrier is trying to make this an annual event. He is proposing the weekend after Labor Day for next year: probably Tahoe, maybe Almanor, but September 5th, 6th and 7th next year. We will be in South Africa.
Friday, September 06, 2024
2024 Davis Mafia - Day #1
Chabrier organized a weekend get together of guys that I have known since college. Except for Snipes, we all played rugby together at UC Davis and on club and touring sides after college. Chabrier calls the group the Wild OATS (Old Aggie Touring Side). I prefer Davis Mafia; this is what Bentley on the Bald Eagles called the group.Two foursomes played golf at Ancil Hoffman on Friday morning. With Wallen, Tomasin and Snipes not interested in playing golf, I decided to hang out with them on Friday, rather than joint the golfing group.
Wallen flew into town on Friday morning. I drove over to Snipes house. The Tomasins eventually rolled up. Tomasin, Snipes, Wallen and I went to lunch at Lamppost Pizza. Geselbracht eventually joined us.
After lunch, I fought my way back to Carmichael. I picked up Sharon and headed to Shangri-la in Old Fair Oaks. Chabrier made a dinner reservation for 25. The group included Hoffman and his wife, Rehlich and his wife, Clayton and his wife, Lindsey and Maria, Wilson and Karen, Hunter and Yuli, Greene and Jeanie, Tomasin and Julie, Snipes and Joy, Chabrier, Moore, Geselbracht, Wallen and Sharon and I. Fourteen guys and ten wives. Gribi was supposed to there, but had some misadventure.
While I thought that we were going to be outside, they put us in a back room. It was a great evening. I enjoyed catching up with everyone!
Thursday, September 05, 2024
Neighborhood Book Club
Sharon is part of a neighborhood book club. They met Thursday night at the community pool. They discussed Miss Benson's Beetle by Rachel Joyce.
Apparently, the next meeting in Ocotber is going to be coed for the book Chain Gang All Stars...
Apparently, the next meeting in Ocotber is going to be coed for the book Chain Gang All Stars...
Wednesday, September 04, 2024
The Network Effect by Martha Wells
My second book for August was The Network Effect by Martha Wells. The book is the fifth in a series called The Murderbot Diaries. I read the first book--All Systems Red--and the second book--Artificial Condition--in April of 2023, third book--Rogue Protocol--in September of 2023 and the fourth book--Exit Strategy--in November of 2023.
I started reading the series because this book won the 2021 Hugo Award for Best Novel. It also won the 2020 Nebula Award for Best Novel and 2021 Locus Award for Best Science Fiction Novel.
The novel begins with Murderbot and the humans it protects being kidnapped. They encounter ART, an old acquaintance and friend, who is in dire need of help. The story delves into corporate politics and the dangerous world of space exploration. The group encounters an alien entity that poses a significant threat to their survival.
After finishing the third and fourth novellas, I said that Murderbot's ability to hack any and all systems to work its way out of any situation has gotten to be too much for me. This is a better book. It is longer and the plot is more complex. There is a mystery driving the plot. I enjoyed it. Although I said that I wouldn't, I am probably going to read the next book in the series.
I started reading the series because this book won the 2021 Hugo Award for Best Novel. It also won the 2020 Nebula Award for Best Novel and 2021 Locus Award for Best Science Fiction Novel.
The novel begins with Murderbot and the humans it protects being kidnapped. They encounter ART, an old acquaintance and friend, who is in dire need of help. The story delves into corporate politics and the dangerous world of space exploration. The group encounters an alien entity that poses a significant threat to their survival.
After finishing the third and fourth novellas, I said that Murderbot's ability to hack any and all systems to work its way out of any situation has gotten to be too much for me. This is a better book. It is longer and the plot is more complex. There is a mystery driving the plot. I enjoyed it. Although I said that I wouldn't, I am probably going to read the next book in the series.
Tuesday, September 03, 2024
Kayaking on the American River
I told Larkin in late May that there were two things that I wanted to accomplish this summer: kayaking from Hazel to Ancil Hoffman Park and going to Winters for lunch and a visit to Boone's Patio29. We kayaked from Hazel to Ancil Hoffman on Tuesday. I am going to try and organize a trip to Patio29 in October after we are back from the Balkans.
It took us about 2 1/2 hours to float about 6.5 miles. [Note to self], I tried to use Alltrails to make a map, but it didn't work. Use runkeeper next time...
It was a great day. There was almost no one on the river. We passed one drift boat fishing near Hazel and caught up with one raft with two people near the San Juan rapids.
It took us about 2 1/2 hours to float about 6.5 miles. [Note to self], I tried to use Alltrails to make a map, but it didn't work. Use runkeeper next time...
It was a great day. There was almost no one on the river. We passed one drift boat fishing near Hazel and caught up with one raft with two people near the San Juan rapids.
Monday, September 02, 2024
At Whitney Oaks
Marlene, Phil, Sharon and I played Whitney Oaks. I have played there twice before when I was working at Sutter Health: 2003 and 2005.
I felt solid on the driving range. I hit two or three shots with every club and felt like the swing changes were being effective.
Teeing off at 12 pm, Marlene felt under the weather on the first fairway. She ended up going back to the clubhouse. Sharon and I played the rest of the day with Phil.
Unfortuantely, I am still having trouble translating my success on the driving range to the course. I played awful. I have been using Golfshot Pro on my iPhone for ten years. I ended tying the worst score that I have had in that ten year period. oy vey... While I wasn't frustrated, I got very discouraged. Whitney Oaks is a difficult course, but that is not an excuse for how badly I was hitting the ball.
I ended up playing all four of the par threes pretty well. I parred the eighth hole. I started to strike the ball, including my drives, better over the last four or five holes.
After stopping to change at Marlene and Phil's apartment behind Creekside, the four of us finished the day with dinner at the Rose Park Bistro. Sharon and I split CHAR-GRILLED ARTICHOKE HEART [Crumbled Feta, Crisp Watermelon Radish, Micro Greens, Fresh Oregano, Pesto, Lemon Vinaigrette] and LIVING BUTTER LETTUCE salad [Fresh Strawberries, Roasted Pecans, Gorgonzola Vinaigrette, Dark Chocolate Dust]. For entrees, I had MUSHROOM RISOTTO [Wild Mushroom Duxelles, English Peas, Asparagus, Shaved Parmesan, Truffle Oil], while Sharon had PAPPARDELLE WITH SHORT RIB RAGU [Red Wine Braised Short Rib, Brussels Sprout Leaves, Mushrooms, Cipollini Onions, Gremolata, Pecorino Cheese].
I felt solid on the driving range. I hit two or three shots with every club and felt like the swing changes were being effective.
Teeing off at 12 pm, Marlene felt under the weather on the first fairway. She ended up going back to the clubhouse. Sharon and I played the rest of the day with Phil.
Unfortuantely, I am still having trouble translating my success on the driving range to the course. I played awful. I have been using Golfshot Pro on my iPhone for ten years. I ended tying the worst score that I have had in that ten year period. oy vey... While I wasn't frustrated, I got very discouraged. Whitney Oaks is a difficult course, but that is not an excuse for how badly I was hitting the ball.
I ended up playing all four of the par threes pretty well. I parred the eighth hole. I started to strike the ball, including my drives, better over the last four or five holes.
After stopping to change at Marlene and Phil's apartment behind Creekside, the four of us finished the day with dinner at the Rose Park Bistro. Sharon and I split CHAR-GRILLED ARTICHOKE HEART [Crumbled Feta, Crisp Watermelon Radish, Micro Greens, Fresh Oregano, Pesto, Lemon Vinaigrette] and LIVING BUTTER LETTUCE salad [Fresh Strawberries, Roasted Pecans, Gorgonzola Vinaigrette, Dark Chocolate Dust]. For entrees, I had MUSHROOM RISOTTO [Wild Mushroom Duxelles, English Peas, Asparagus, Shaved Parmesan, Truffle Oil], while Sharon had PAPPARDELLE WITH SHORT RIB RAGU [Red Wine Braised Short Rib, Brussels Sprout Leaves, Mushrooms, Cipollini Onions, Gremolata, Pecorino Cheese].
Sunday, September 01, 2024
Taking Jack back to the City
Taking off about 8 am, Sharon took Jack back to the city. With a detour to CABi in Napa, she was home about 1:30 pm. There was a lot less traffic than Thursday afternoon!
Saturday, August 31, 2024
To Pollock Pines
With Drew and Carmen spending the night after Jack's birthday dinner, they headed up to Placerville to help Morgan and Daniel finish cleaning up the apartment. From there, they headed to Pollack Pines.
Sharon and I met everyone at Daniel and Morgan's new house. Sharon got a tour of the propery and house from Morgan; she wasn't there last weekend when I helped them move. All of us spend some time hanging out in the new yard with Lee and Clem.
I was disappointed that Jack bagged on the afternoon. I was hoping to get a family picture for the Christmas Card. It is hard to get all of us in one place.
Sharon and I met everyone at Daniel and Morgan's new house. Sharon got a tour of the propery and house from Morgan; she wasn't there last weekend when I helped them move. All of us spend some time hanging out in the new yard with Lee and Clem.
I was disappointed that Jack bagged on the afternoon. I was hoping to get a family picture for the Christmas Card. It is hard to get all of us in one place.
Friday, August 30, 2024
Celebrating Jack's Birthday
Sharon organized a couple of foursomes to play at Ancil Hoffman for Jack's birthday. The group included Sharon, Jack, Larkin, the Gainsleys and the Coffins. Teeing off at 10:28 am, the Gainsleys started with the Coffins. I rode with Larkin, while Sharon rode with Jack. We switched up the foursomes at the 10th. Sharon and Jack went up with the Coffins, while Larkin and I were paired with the Gainsleys.I had a horrible start with an eleven on the first hole; I have parred this hole the last two times that we have played it! I got very frustrated. I have got to back to the strategies outlined in Golf Is Not A Game of Perfect. While I feel like I am making progress on the driving range, I can't seem to translate that to the course. I ended up shooting 64 on the front nine.
Surprisingly, I settled down and played much better on the back nine. I ended up with a 53. I had an opportunity for par on 18, but just missed a long putt. I continue to work on pulling my hands back and in and keeping my right elbow closer to my side. Based on some feedback over the last couple of rounds, I need to focus on slowing down my swing when I am on the course.
After golf, we jumped in the pool. While we were hanging out at the pool, Drew and Carmen rolled up. They are spending the night.
Everyone stayed for dinner. I barbecued hamburgers for dinner. Sharon made a peach pie and a chocolate cake.
It was a wonderful day!Thursday, August 29, 2024
Picking up Jack
I took off at noon on Thursday to pick up Jack. It was an easy ride into the city. I was there a little early and had to circle Bush and Pine a couple of times before he got off work.
The drive back was a slog; everyone was trying to get a headstart on the holiday weekend. Leaving his apartment about 2:30 pm, it took us 3 hours and 15 minutes to get back to Carmichael.
We had an interesting encounter with a Waymo at my least favorite intersection in San Francisco: Bush and Battery. It was having a difficult time figuring out how to turn right and head across Market. I read an article several years ago about how it is going to be possible to bully driverless cars.
Waze routed us a way that I had never been before. It sent us north on 113 to Woodland, but had us continue on to northbound 5. We got off an exit north of Woodland and looped around to southboud 5.
ugh. There and back, it was almost six hours in the car...
The drive back was a slog; everyone was trying to get a headstart on the holiday weekend. Leaving his apartment about 2:30 pm, it took us 3 hours and 15 minutes to get back to Carmichael.
We had an interesting encounter with a Waymo at my least favorite intersection in San Francisco: Bush and Battery. It was having a difficult time figuring out how to turn right and head across Market. I read an article several years ago about how it is going to be possible to bully driverless cars.
Waze routed us a way that I had never been before. It sent us north on 113 to Woodland, but had us continue on to northbound 5. We got off an exit north of Woodland and looped around to southboud 5.
ugh. There and back, it was almost six hours in the car...
Wednesday, August 28, 2024
Golftec
I had a Golftec lesson on Wednesday morning. Over the last two weeks, I have been working on keeping my hands inside on the backswing. Based on today's lesson, I am adding working on keeping my right elbow more connected to my chest rather than flying open like a chicken swing.
Zoom Call with our OATS guide
Wednesday morning, Sharon and I did a Zoom Call with our guide for upcoming Overseas Adventure Travel Crossroads of the Adriatic trip.
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