Poppy Hills

Spending the night at an Airbnb in downtown Pacific Grove, Holly, Van, Sharon and I played Poppy Hills Golf Course. It was a bizarre round. It was probably the best that I have ever felt on the driving range. Unfortunately, I was very inconsistent once we got on the course.

We teed off at 11:50 am. The course was very nice; the fairways were in great shape. Overall, it wasn't as hard as I expected it to be. Although I didn't par a hole, I bogeyed six holes. I was in seven greenside bunkers, but was very successful in getting out. I made an absolute mess of several of the par fives.

I ended up with a very liberally scored 108. After we finished at Poppy Hills, we drove to the Pebble Beach Lodge and had a drink at The Bench. Sitting outside, we had a great view of the 18th fairway and the ocean.

The four of us finished the day with dinner at Wild Fish in Pacific Grove. From my perspective, it was not a good experience. We had a 7:30 pm reservation. They seated us in the bar for 30 minutes before they took us to a table. Sharon and I spilt a ceviche; it was not good. I had swordfish and risotto as an entree, while Sharon had sablefish. My entree was not good...

To Carmel

Sharon and I rolled towards Carmel about 9:15 am. Heading down 5, Apple Maps switched the route to 205 to 680 to 101 to 156 as we were passing Stockon rather than over Pacheco Pass. I am always surprised how long it takes to get there. With two short stops, it took us four hours.

We had a late lunch at Porta Bella. We ate lunch there with Jim and Debbie on our road trip in February. We both had the Smoked Salmon with Pistachio Herb Goat Cheese Salad [mixed greens, asparagus, orange wedges, honey tarragon vinaigrette].

After lunch, we did a nice walk along the Carmel Beach around to the Carmel River Beach and then back to the car. In total, we covered three miles in an hour and ten minutes.



Back at the car, we headed to Pacific Grove to catch up with Holly and Van. The four of us are spending three nights at an Airbnb right on Lighthouse Avenue.

During lunch, I had texted Mark and Jeanie. We had dinner with them on our road trip in February. They are leaving for Norway and Sweden on Wednesday. We made plans to meet them for a cocktail at Fandango before dinner to share with them some of our experiences on the Viking Homelands Cruise.

Holly and Van wandered up to the restaurant after Mark and Jeanie left. The four of us had dinner. Sharon and I split Caesar Salad. I had PAELLA FANDANGO [Saffron rice, seafood, spicy sausages, chicken, peas, green onion, red & green bell pepper, cooked & served in a skillet]. Sharon had DOUBLE LAMB CHOPS [Two double chops, grilled with herbs].

We finished the night back at the Airbnb watching the Olympics.

Lunch with Larkin

I had lunch with Larkin at BJ's Restaurant and Brewhouse on Monday. We did some planning for the Army/Navy game in December. We are going to try to have dinner with the Rochlins. One of my goals for the summer is for Larkin and I to kayak from Hazel to Ancil Hoffman Park.

Pool Adventures with Lee and Clem

Sunday afternoon, we had Morgan, Daniel, Lee and Clem and Drew and Carmen over to swim. The eight of us spent a couple of hours in the community pool. Afterwards, Sharon served a great dinner of lamb burgers.

G-Man: J. Edgar Hoover and the Making of the American Century by Beverly Gage

My book for June was G-Man: J. Edgar Hoover and the Making of the American Century by Beverly Gage. I have been looking for a book about Hoover for years. He shows up in so many of the biographies that I have read. Then this book popped up; it was the winner of the 2023 Pulitzer Prize in Biography.

Hoover worked for the Justice Department for 55 years under ten Presidents. President Calvin Coolidge first appointed Hoover as director of the Bureau of Investigation, the predecessor to the Federal Bureau of investigation, in 1924. After 11 years in the post, Hoover became instrumental in founding the FBI in June 1935. He remained director for an additional 37 years until his death in May 1972 at age 77. Hoover had very strong relationships with FDR, Lyndon Johnson and Richard Nixon.

Hoover expanded the FBI into a larger crime-fighting agency and instituted a number of modernizations to policing technology, such as a centralized fingerprint file and forensic laboratories. Hoover established and expanded a national blacklist.

The book navigates the complexities of Hoover's tenure as FBI director. It delves into his successes, including building the FBI into a formidable law enforcement agency, combating organized crime, and contributing to national security. It also exposes his darker side, including Hoover's abuse of power, his obsession with political enemies, and his role in fostering a climate of fear.

Hoover was obsessed with the Communist Party. Under the code name COINTELRPO, the FBI used a number of strategies to disrupt the Communist Party, including infiltration, burglaries, setting up illegal wiretaps, planting forged documents, and spreading false rumors about key members. Under the theory that the communists were playing a role in the civil rights movement in the 1960s, Hoover extended these strategies to Martin Luther King and his movement.

The struggles that the FBI encountered pursuing civil rights cases in the South in the 1950s and 1960s are eye opening. The examples are horiffic. The book covers the JFK, Martin Luther King and Robert Kennedy assassinations and FBI investigations.

The book also looks at Hoover's sexuality. Clyde Tolson was the second-ranking official of the FBI from 1930 until 1972. He and Hoover worked closely together during the day, took meals together, went to night clubs in New York City and vacationed together in Florida and California. They were invited to social gatherings as a couple. Tolson herited Hoover's estate. While there continues to be some debate about the nature of their relationship, it is hard to believe that they didn't have a sexual relationship.

It is incredible how long Hoover was in power. The story is an amazing walk through the history of the 20th century. At more than 700 pages, it is a little bit of a load, but it was worth it. I recommend the book.

The Mirror Has Two Faces

Saturday night, Sharon and I watched The Mirror has Two Faces. Sharon read Barbara Streisand's biography My Name is Barbra last year and we have been working our way through a number of Streisand's films. We watched A Star is Born in December, The Way We Were in January, Funny Girl and What's Up, Doc? in March and Yentel in May.

The Mirror Has Two Faces is a 1996 American romantic comedy-drama film produced and directed by Barbra Streisand. The screenplay by Richard LaGravenese is loosely based on the 1958 French film Le Miroir à deux faces written by André Cayatte and Gérard Oury. The film stars Streisand, Jeff Bridges, Pierce Brosnan, George Segal, Mimi Rogers, Brenda Vaccaro, and Lauren Bacall.

The story focuses on a shy, middle-aged professor who enters into a platonic relationship with an unlucky-in-love colleague. Streisand plays Rose, a brilliant literature professor yearning for a meaningful connection. Disillusioned by societal emphasis on appearances, she longs for someone who values her for her mind. Bridges is Gregory, a charming mathematics professor scarred by superficial relationships.

Lauren Bacall's performance garnered widespread critical acclaim. It earned her the Golden Globe Award for Best Supporting Actress – Motion Picture and the Screen Actors Guild Award for Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Supporting Role. In addition, Bacall was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress, the first in her then-50-plus-year career.

Streisand, Marvin Hamlisch, Robert John "Mutt" Lange, and Bryan Adams composed the film's theme song, "I Finally Found Someone". Streisand sang it on the soundtrack with Adams. The theme song was nominated for the Best Song Oscar.

I continue to be impressed by Streisand's performances. She is very good. Nevertheless, I don't generally don't recommend the movie unless you are working your way through her movies like we are...

Ancil Hoffman

Sharon and I played golf with Jim and Debbie at Ancil Hoffman. We have been trying to play regularly on Thursday afternoons. We teed off at 4:28 pm. Although it was more than 100 degrees, Jim and I walked, while Debbie and Sharon rode together.

It was a very bizarre round. I parred first and fourth holes, but most of the rest of the day was a mess. I had taken a Golftec lesson earlier in the day and he was coaching me on changing how I move and sway my right hip and side. I didn't have a chance to work on it at the range. I was thinking way too much the whole afternoon; I was completely flummoxed.

I ended up with a very liberally scored 55. After feeling like I was striking the ball so well on Wednesday, it was disheartening...

Golftec

I took a Golftec lesson on Thursday. The lesson focused on swaying my right side.

Nooter

I facetimed with Nooter for about 50 minutes on Thursday morning. I was great to catch up with him! One of my goals in retirement is being better connected with family and friends.

Teal Bend

Sharon and I played golf at Teal Bend with Donna and Kevin. Hoping to beat the heat, we teed off at 8:10 am.

I was very happy with how I was striking the ball. I have incorporated four changes over the last eight weeks: standing up straighter; closing my stance; keeping my left arm straighter, and; pushing my right hip back. I continue to push the ball left ocassionally, but have been making much better contact. I still need to work my hands down to my hip.

I ended up with a fairly honestly scored 104. I had two pars. I felt like I was in a nice groove on the back nine.

After golf, the four of us had a late lunch at Polanco Cantina at DOCO. I had Baja Fish Tacos [Locally sourced fresh rock cod, battered & fried with chipotle crema, avocado, shredded cabbage & pico on flour tortillas, served with black beans].

Lunch with Snipes

I had lunch with Snipes at The Yardhouse at DOCO.

Dinner at Holly and Van's

Sunday night, Holly and Van invited us over for dinner. They served a very nice multi-course meal. We are going to be spending a lot of time with them over the next two months!

Robert O'Connor

Sharon and Tom went to a Celebration of Life for Bob O'Connor on Saturday afternoon. The family lived across the street from them in River Park when they were growing up.

Robert (Bob) O'Connor

May 27, 1932 - May 21, 2024

Sacramento, California - It is with heavy hearts that we announce the passing of our beloved POP, PAPA, BROTHER, UNCLE, GODPARENT, COUSIN and FRIEND. Robert (Bob) O'Connor passed away peacefully on Tuesday, May 21st, 2024, just 6 days shy of his 92nd birthday. Born in Grand Island, Nebraska on May 27th, 1932 to Vera (Browne) O'Connor and Glenn O'Connor. Preceded in death by his parents, son Patrick O'Connor and beloved partner Gisela Kocher. Survived by his dear sister Joan (O'Connor) O'Neil, former wife Rosemary (Margetts) O'Connor and their children: Ronald (Nancy), Michael (Vicki), Pete (Tambi), Paul (Elizabeth), Mark (Barbara) and Molly Emslie (Jeff). Also survived by 12 grandchildren, 6 great grandchildren, many cousins, nieces and nephews, and Nancy (Gardiner) O'Connor. THANK YOU to the wonderful staff at Oakmont of East Sac-Traditions, who cared for my dad like FAMILY.

A celebration of "A life well lived" of Bob O'Connor's long life will be held on Saturday, July 20th from 12:00-3:00pm at the Dante Club (Tuscan Room behind the bar), where friends and family are invited to remember a man who was truly a gift to us all. Please check W.F. Gormley & Sons website for updated information.

Klute

Friday night, Sharon and I watched Klute. Although I am not sure what, something started us talking about the movie over the last couple of months.

Klute is a 1971 psychological thriller directed and produced by Alan J. Pakula. It stars Jane Fonda, Donald Sutherland and Roy Scheider.

The plot follows a high-priced New York City call girl who assists a detective from Pennsylvania in solving the missing person case of a john who may be stalking her. Jane Fonda delivers as Bree Daniel, a high-class call girl caught in a web of mystery and violence. Donald Sutherland portrays John Klute, a detective hired to follow her, whose investigation becomes intertwined with a budding and unlikely relationship.

Klute received two nominations at the 44th Academy Awards for Best Original Screenplay and Best Actress. Jane Fonda won Best Actress.

I saw originally saw Klute in the first six months of 1973, sometime after I got my drivers license and car. Mike and I saw it at the theater in Gridley. Although there isn't that much sex or nudity, it was the first movie that I ever saw where people were having sex.

The movie is interesting mostly for Jane Fonda's performance. I give it a "B-" and a lukewarm recommendation.

Neighborhood Book Club

Sharon is part of a neighborhood book club. They met Thursday night at the community pool. They discussed Hateship, Friendship, Courtship, Loveship, Marriage by Alice Munro.

Golftec

I took a Golftec lesson on Thursday. The lesson focused on closing my stance as I am addressing the ball.

Viking Venus Suite 5039

Sharon and I spent two weeks living in Suite 5039 on the Viking Venus. While there was a lot I liked about our Viking Homelands cruise, the suite was a negative for me. Compared to the Seabourn suite that we had in 2022, it was smaller. The Seabourn suite was 302 square feet, while the Viking suite was 225 square feet; this is 25% smaller. We didn't spend that much time in the suite, but when we did it feel very crowded.

Golftec

I went to Golftec on Tuesday morning. Given that I was just back from a three week vacation, they spent a couple of minutes reenforcing a couple of things and then let me use the bay to practice. We rescheduled the lesson for Thursday.

I am really enjoying the lessons.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #23 - To Carmichael

We were on the ground in Sacramento just before midnight. The plane pulled up to the terminal and sat for fifteen minutes waiting for a gate.

When we got into the terminal, I was shocked at the number of people. In the eastern end of Terminal B, there were three different flights boarding. There was a Aeromexico flight to Guadalajara and a Volaris flight to Guadalajara boarding!?! There was also a Jet Blue flight to JFK.

We got our luggage and wound our way through the parking garage to the car. We were home at 1:30 am. I crashed about 2:00 am.

It was a great trip. This itinerary is one that I pushed for. Sharon said that it exceeded her expectations.

I have two goals over the next couple of weeks. I want to pull together a lessons learned document. I feel like we made a couple of mistakes that we need to work to avoid. I also want to pull together a document comparing this Viking Ocean Cruise with our experiences on the Seabourn Cruise in late 2022.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #22 - To Sacramento

On your final day, you will transfer by motor coach to the airport for your return flight.

Heading Home!

Up about 6:00 am, we finished packing up the room. We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel.

We were scheduled to be picked up at 9:00 am and transferred to the airport. Something went wrong. Our transfer never showed up. We ended up consolidating in a van meant for a 9:30 am pick-up with another Viking couple.

When we got to the airport, the check-in was a mess. It looks like there are only two British Airways flights from Stockholm to London each day. The check-in and gate appears to be handled by Finnair. Although we were there early, it took over an hour to check-in. For much of this time, there was only one person checking people in!

The flight from Stockholm to London was uneventful.

When we landed at Heathrow, they had us unload into a bus and drove us to the terminal. After a long walk, we had to go through passport control and another security checkpoint. We took a train out to the C gates of Terminal 5. Heathrow was packed with people.

After we got loaded, there was some drama with a passenger. The police came and took someone off. The flight ended up sitting on the ground for almost an hour. Eventually, the passenger came back.

We had premium econony seats for the leg to Seattle. I read my book and maybe slept for an hour. The flight went fairly quickly.

On the ground in Seattle, after another long walk, we got a chance to use our Global Entry! In what seems to me to be a change in procedure, we claimed our luggage before we did passport control. I know that the last two trips that we claimed our luggage after passport control.

We had a long layover. We both got a hamburgers for dinner at the African Lounge.

Like Heathrow, Seattle was packed with people.

The flight to Sacramento was supposed to take off at 10 pm. It was late coming from Salt Lake City. We boarded about 9:55 pm and took off about 10:15 pm. The flight landed in Sacramento at 11:55 pm.

We finished the day sitting in the airplane on the ground in Sacramento waiting for a gate...

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #21 - Stockholm, Sweden

Explore Stockholm on your own today. Indulge in a smörgåsbord—once the realm of the noble elite—of maritime delicacies such as cured herring, dill-smoked salmon and chilled Belon oysters. Visit the Vasa Museum, home of the Swedish warship Vasa—the only surviving 17th-century ship in the world. Be sure to stroll the quaint cobblestone streets of the 13th-century Gamla Stan, pausing to admire its German-influenced architecture.

For the first time in almost three weeks, we didn’t have part of our day scheduled by Viking Cruises. It was glorious. We wandered the city and explored. I need to discuss the subject of cruises versus scheduling our own trips in a lessons learned.

Going to bed at 9:00 pm and getting up at 6:30 pm, this was the best night sleep that I had on the trip. We had a buffet breakfast at the hotel.

After breakfast, we headed out into the shopping streets on Gamla Stan. Unfortunately, few shops were open early.

I talked Sharon into touring the Royal Apartments in the Palace. Rick Steves had panned the apartments in his travel guide, but Sharon and I both enjoyed the tour. Part of the reason that we enjoyed it so much was that we were literally the first people in the Royal Apartments; we had the place to ourselves. As we turned a couple of corners, we could see a herd of people way behind us.

Afterwards, we had a Fika.

We then spent some time shopping. I bought a Christmas Ornament to give Sharon this year. Sharon bought some gifts and a couple of things for herself. Although she hasn't done as much shopping as she has done on some trips, we are going to have a fourth bag on the way home!

We dropped everything in the room at the hotel. From there, we walk to the Moderna Museet. It is Sweden's premier museum dedicated to modern and contemporary art. The Moderna Museet is situated on the picturesque island of Skeppsholmen in central Stockholm. I think that I enjoyed the museum more than Sharon. Given how much I have read about Pablo Pscasso, I am always looking for his work.

After the museum, we walked to the Strandvägen. It is undoubtedly the most iconic boulevard in Stockholm. This elegant thoroughfare runs along the waterfront in the Östermalm district and offers stunning views of the city skyline and the Baltic Sea. We found a cafe on the water and had a late lunch. We split a hamburger.

Looking for some nail clippers, we walked through the Kungsträdgården after lunch. I was shocked at the number of people in the shopping district in the modern part of the city.

We took a short nap and then got ready for dinner.

We finished the day with dinner at SKEPPSBRON 10. We had the the Chef's Menu with the wine pairing. It included:

• SNACKS
• TWO OF CHEF'S FAVOURITES SKIO'S SOURDOUGH BREAD [CARAMELIZED ONION BROTH - WILD GARLIC BUTTER - GOUTWEED - ONION FLOWERS];
• RAVIOLI [PRAWNS - PIMIENTO DE ESPELETTE - SPRING ONION - RYEBREAD - LOBSTER BISQUE];
• BEEF TARTAR [ZUCCINI - LOVAGE - ELDERFLOWER - CARPET OF SNOW - CRISPY ONIONS];
• GRILLED TURBOT [WHITE ASPARAGUS "AIGRE DOUX" - BROAD BEANS - LEMON - CONFIT - LOVAGE ROOT - CHAMPAGNE SAUCE];
• SORBET;
• ORGANIC LAMB [NETTLES - CHAWANMUSHI - MORELS - SUGARSNAPS HERBS - FRAN LILLA LABÄCK - GRILLED LAMBIUS], and;
• DESSERT - CHEF'S CHOICE
.

It was very nice dinner. It took three and a half hours!

Sharon definitely used her superpower to find the restaurant. When we rate all of the dinners on the trip, it will probably be the "best" dinner of the trip...

By the time we got back to the home and to bed, it was 11:00 pm.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #20 - Stockholm, Sweden

Enjoy a stay in Sweden’s capital city, Stockholm. Disembark your ship and transfer to your hotel. The remainder of the day is free for you to relax or begin exploring the city on your own. Perhaps take a leisurely walk to the Royal Palace and Stockholm Cathedral. A Viking Host is available to help you plan your time in Stockholm so you can make the most of your visit.

Moving day!

We had our luggage in the hall at 10 pm the night before. I was shocked to see that disembarking from the ship started at 2:45 am and went on through the night. We were one of the last groups off the ship. Our group met at 9:15 am in the Atrium.

We were up and moving before 6:00 am. I went and got some coffee from the World Cafe; there wasn't any coffee service in the Explorers' Lounge. We had to be out of the room by 8:00 am. We had a leisurely breakfast in The Restaurant.

They finally called our group (Orange 2) and loaded our bus after 9:30 am. On the way to hotel, we did a guided bus tour of of Södermalm island where the main action in the book Girl with the Dragon Tattoo takes place.

We also stopped at City Hall. We had a guided tour including the Blue Hall where the Nobel Prize banquet is held annually and the Golden Hall.

They dropped us at the hotel just after 11:30 am. We are staying two nights at the Reisen Hotel. They told us that our room wouldn't be ready until 3:00 pm. The hotel is in a great location for a base of operations for the next two days.

After checking our luggage, Sharon and I did the Rick Steves walking tour of Gamla Stan (Old Town), including:

• the Royal Palace;
• the King Gustay III Statue;
• the Obelisk;
• the Miliary Parade and Changing of the Guard;
• the Iron Boy Statue;
• the St. George slaying the dragon statue;
• exploring Köpmangatan Street, a historic Merchant Street, it is one of the oldest streets, with its name first mentioned in 1323;
• lunch at and people watching in the Stortorget;
• the Nobel Prize Museum (a bust!);
• the Cathedral, and;
• a Viking Rune stone.

We walked all the way to Lake Mälaren and the locks that separate the lake and the Baltic Sea. I had a hard time keeping Sharon moving forward; she kept wanting to stop and do some shopping...

Wandering back to the hotel, we finally got into our room. Getting cleaned up, we walked to Mister French for a glass of wine. We had a nice table with a view of the harbor and the Viking Venus.

From there, we walked to dinner at Kryp In. I had the three course menu, including: Asparagus soup [smoked salmon, cream cheese, potato chips]; Venison topside [potato purée, green asparagus, lingon berry, red wine sauce], and; Chocolate lingonberry truffle [berry couli, dulce de leche]. Sharon also the Asparagus soup. For an entree, she had Cod with shrimps [pickled horseradish, boiled potatoes, browned butter]. She had some of my dessert.

Wandering back to the hotel, we crashed very early just after 9:00 pm. It has been a long three weeks.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #19 - Stockholm, Sweden

Vasa Museum & Stockholm by Boat

A Centuries-Old Warship and a Gentle Sightseeing Cruise

Visit the remarkably preserved 17th-century Swedish warship Vasa and see Stockholm’s cityscape from the water.

Begin at the Vasa Museum, home to a historic warship that sank in Stockholm Harbor in 1628 and was raised, incredibly preserved, 300 years later. Use your free time to explore here before taking a short walk on the green island of Djurgården and enjoying a traditional Swedish meal at the Villa Godthem restaurant, set in the home of a former opera singer. Embark your exclusively chartered motor vessel and set sail among the channels, canals and quays that unite this incomparable city. During your cruise, pass the medieval Gamla Stan, or old town, whose old guild houses and narrow streets spread across the city’s original three islands. Admire the Stockholm Palace, the distinguished Royal Dramatic Theater and the Royal Swedish Opera, the national stage for opera and ballet.

I had a really bad night's sleep. I have really struggled with my sleep on this trip.

After a quick breakfast in the World Cafe, we met our excursion at 9:15 am in the Star Theater. Loading on a bus, we drove to a viewpoint above the ship so the guide could point out where the Vasa sunk.

From there, we wound our way to the Vasa Museum. The Vasa is a Swedish warship that has become one of the world’s most famous maritime archaeological finds. Built in 1626-1628, the ship was designed to be a floating fortress, adorned with intricate carvings and sculptures. On its maiden voyage in 1628, the ship tilted and sank just after leaving Stockholm harbor. The cause of the disaster is believed to be an unstable design, with the ship being top-heavy due to its extensive ornamentation and heavy cannons.

They claim that 98% of the ship is original. It is pretty impressive. In particular, the sculptures and carving are amazing.

After a guided tour, they gave us some free time, but we could have used some more time to wander through the exhibits. Leaving the museum, I was shocked at the number of people lined up outside.

From the museum, we walked to lunch at Villa Godthem. It is a renowned restaurant located in the heart of Stockholm's Djurgården park. The restaurant is housed in a charming 19th-century wooden building that exudes elegance and history. Originally built in 1874 as a gift to the famous opera singer Carl Johan Uddman, the villa has been a restaurant since the Stockholm Exhibition of 1897. We had a traditional Swedish meal, including: meatballs (köttbullar); mashed potatoes; gravy; lingonberries, and; pickled cucumbers.

We walked to the water and boarded a boat with one other Viking bus, We did a 30 minute tour of the harbor. We dropped us back at the pier right next to the ship just after 1:30 pm. It was interesting, but not as nice as the canal cruise in Copenhagen.

The plan for the afternoon was to get the room packed up. Over the last two weeks, we have unpacked and really spread out in the room. We have stuff everywhere.

I did a twenty minute upper body strength peleton work out in the Fitness Center.

Sharon and I went to the Nordic Spa and used the Thalassotherapy pool, hot tub, sauna, snow grotto and heated ceramic lounges.

Before dinner, we had a cocktail in the Explorers' Lounge. We went to an early dinner at the Chef's Table. The set menu included:

• AMUSE BOUCHE - QUAIL SCOTCH EGGS - quick pickle, edible flowers, dressed baby salad leaves. Scotch eggs are not Scottish; instead, the name is derived from the Middle English verb scocchen, meaning "to cut." The eggs are covered with finely cut pork.
• FIRST COURSE - BEER-BATTERED FISH & CHIPS - vinegar salt, minted pea purée, tartar sauce. Initlally "chips" were made from bread, but this was replaced by potatoes during a wheat shortage, and the substitution flourished. Indeed, even during World War II, Britain's Minister of Food restrained from rationing this beloved dish—in part because it provided good, inexpensive nutrition.
• GRANITE - GIN & TONIC - lemon twist. The "G&T" was created in India, where quinine was used to prevent and treat malaria. Since it was terribly bitter, British army officers started adding water, sugar and lime-plus their gin ration-to make it more palatable.
• MAIN COURSE - MINI YORKSHIRE PUDDING & SLOW BRAISED BRISKET - rich beef gravy, garden vegetables with chive butter. One of Britain's most iconic dishes, Yorkshire Pudding boasts a recipe dating back to at least the 17th century, and is the classic pairing to roast beef.
• DESSERT - WHIM-WHAM Scottish Regency trifle with raspberries, oranges & whipped cream. Derived from the word "whimsy," this dessert-like most trifles-consists of cake layered with fruit. Here, cream sherry and Scotch whisky complement raspberries, orange zest and double cream.

Lights were out just before 10 pm. We are transferring off the ship tomorrow morning. We will be spending two nights in a hotel in Stockholm.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #18 - Mariehamn, Åland Islands, Finnland

Aland Islands by Bike

A Scenic Exploration on Two Wheels

Meet your guide, don your helmet and after a short safety briefing, set off on two wheels. Your ride will take you through the city of Mariehamn to the surrounding countryside past green meadows and lovely seaside residences. You will ride over several bridges, offering stunning views of the surroundings, and cross over to the isle of Järsöarea, known for its picturesque, red-painted farmhouses. Here, you will pause to enjoy a delicious homemade pancake with strawberry jam. Back on your bicycle, follow your guide for the leisurely ride back to your awaiting ship.

I got up at 6:15 am and wandered up to the Explorers' Lounge for coffee. It was interesting to watch the ship dock in the tiny harbor and port. After sailing into the harbor, they spun the ship in a circle to dock it. Much to her chagrin, I let Sharon sleep until 7:00 am before I woke her up.

We had a quick breakfast in the World Cafe. We met our excursion in the Star Theater at 8:15 am.

The first day on the ship, we switched our excursion from Mariehamn on Foot to a biking excursion. Meeting the group at 8:30 am, we got our bikes. We rode through town with a couple of stops to talk about buildings and statues. We did a longer stop at the Martime Quarter, but it was early and most of the shops were closed.

From there, we rode out of town and across several islands. It was very picturesque. We made a stop and walked down towards the water. Turning around, we rode back along the same route and stopped for a Swedish Pancake at Pensionat Solhem. We are back to the ship after 12:30 pm.

I really enjoyed the ride. We covered about 14 miles in two and a half hours of moving time.

We had a nice late lunch at the World Cafe sitting on the back of the boat in the sun.

After lunch, we met with the travel advisor. Given the incentitives that they were giving to book on the boat, we made a decision to sign up for a Mekong Delta Cruise with a pre-tour in Bangkok and post-tour in Hanoi and Ha Long Bay in early 2026.

We spent some time in the infinity pool and hot tub on the back of the ship.

We went to the Port Talk for Stockholm.

While Sharon was getting cleaned up, I dove back down into the Nordic Spa. I did the pool and the sauna. I really think that the sauna helped knock down my head cold.

We went to the Explorers' Lounge for a cocktail. It was interesting to watch the ship sail away from Mariehamn through a series of small islands. It seemed like the channel was very narrow. There were a lot of other small boats around. I am going to write more about smaller boats in general in a post trip blog entry.

We had a late dinner at Manfredi's. The reservation was for a six person common table, but they seated by ourselves. We split Insalata Caprese [buffalo mozzarella, vine ripened tomatoes, basil, extra virgin olive oil] and Spaghetti alla Carbonara o all'Arrabbiata [fresh spaghetti with choice of: guanciale, egg & Parmigiano Reggiano sauce or garlic, parsley & spicy tomato sauce]. I had Traditional Bistecca alla Fiorentina [herb marinated grilled bone-in rib eye] as an entree, while Sharon had Branzino alla Mediterranean [seared sea bass; cherry tomatoes, potatoes, black olives, anchovies & parsley].

We gained an hour back, shifting from Helsinki to Stockholm time. Effectively, we crashed at 9:30 pm rather than 10:30 pm.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #17 - Sail the Swedish Coast

This was the only sea day of the cruise.

Sleeping until 6:30 am, Sharon did yoga in the fitness center. Given that I had a little bit of a head cold that hasn't gotten any better or any worse over the last two days, I relaxed in the room.

We had breakfast at the World Cafe. Afterwards, Sharon did laundry.

As Sharon's laundry was drying, we went to a presentation on Viking River Cruises. After the course of the trip, we have also gone to presentations on Ocean and Expedition Cruises.

Next, we spent some time enjoying some of the features of the Nordic Spa, including:

• Warm Thalassotherapy Pool: A large pool with mineral-rich seawater for a warm and relaxing soak;
• Hot Tub: A smaller pool with hotter water for deeper muscle relaxation;
• Steam Room: A room with hot, humid air to promote sweating and detoxification;
• Snow Grotto (unique feature): A room kept at very cold temperatures with snowflakes falling from the ceiling, offering a refreshing contrast to the hot rooms, and;
• Heated Ceramic Lounges: Comfortable seating areas with heated surfaces for additional relaxation.

I think that the steam room had a positive impact on my head cold!

We had a late lunch at the pool grill. We both had a burger. the weather was gorgeous. They had the roof over the pool open.

Sharon scheduled a Nordic Restart at the spa. It started with a Nordic scrub to kick-start circulation and remove dead skin cells. This was followed by a Swedish deep-tissue massage. Finally, there was a Nordic scalp ritual. She said it was one of the best travel massages that she ever had.

While Sharon was in the spa, I did a 10 minutes arms and light weights Peloton workout and then walked for 30 minutes on the treadmill. Afterwards, I went back to the steam room, snow grotto, hot tub and pool.

Back in the room, we watched the Port Talk for Mariehamm.

We had a late dinner at the Chef's Table. The fixed menu included:

• AMUSE BOUCHE - HOT & SOUR SOUP - Cantonese style - With a unique texture and full flavor, this soup is claimed as a regional dish by several different areas.
• FIRST COURSE FRIED PRAWNS - crispy garlic & chili -Salty, crispy, juicy and spicy-your taste buds will jump up and down.
• GRANITA COCONUT - lemongrass & ginger infused - Chinese have used spices for centuries for their flavor and beneficial properties. Lemongrass helps the body flush out toxins, kills bacteria, helps with digestion and relieves aches and pains; while ginger can ward off stroke and heart disease and fight infection.
• MAIN COURSE - WOK-FRIED BEEF - black pepper sauce, rice in lotus leaf - Few combinations in the food world are as fabled as pepper and steak; and black pepper beef stir-fry is one of the world's meat lovers' favorite Cantonese dishes.
• DESSERT - CHILLED MANGO CREAM - pomelo and sago - One of the most famous and popular Chinese desserts-the perfect light, refreshing finish

The premium wine pairing was very good.

We spent some time at dinner talking to the couple from North Carolina sitting next to us. We also strategized about a possible future Viking trip. Viking is offerring some interesting discounts if we sign up while we are onboard.

It was about 10:30 pm when we crashed.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #16 - Gdańsk, Poland

City of Gdańsk On Foot

Enjoy a Tour of the Sites and Squares of Gdańsk

Explore this remarkably restored Polish city and learn about its rich history on this enlightening excursion.

One of the wealthiest cities in the Hanseatic League, Gdańsk was extensively damaged during World War II, but its restoration has been phoenix-like. You will visit Long Market, one of the city’s most attractive streets, and pass beneath Green Gate, a former royal residence. View the 15th-century Artus Court, a merchant’s palace, and the fascinating Gdańsk treadwheel crane, a 14th-century human-powered device that helped the medieval port load and unload cargo. En route back to your ship, pass Solidarity Square and see the famous Gate No. 2 of the Gdańsk Lenin Shipyard, where protesting shipyard workers were shot by the Communist regime in 1970. A monument here commemorates their sacrifice.

Evening with Frédéric Chopin

A Performance of a Master Composer’s Work

Attend an intimate performance of Chopin compositions in a cultural venue.

Born in 1810 in Warsaw, Frédéric Chopin is one of history’s great composers. He demonstrated true originality at the piano and became a beloved figure in Polish culture. His unique blend of romantic imagination, classical perfection and true Polish spirit still captivates music lovers around the world. Join your guide for a short drive to the neo-Gothic red-brick Polish Baltic Philharmonic. Upon arrival, take your seat in the Chamber Music Hall and settle in for an intimate concert of arias, classical music and other famed Chopin melodies, as well as other great masters that followed in his footsteps. Get caught up in the rousing performances by a renowned Polish pianist and the accompanying violin virtuoso. After the concert, you will return to your ship.

Struggling with a slight head cold, I had a fitful night's sleep. Sharon and I ended up sleeping until almost 7:00 am. We had a quck breakfast of waffles at Mamsen's.

We met our 9:15 am excursion in the Atrium. The excursion for the day was a walking tour of Gdańsk. I was surprised how far out of the old town the ship was docked; it wasn't possible to walk into town. The bus ride was about twenty minutes.

Both Sharon and I were surprised by Gdańsk. It is a beautiful city. The walking tour lasted about 1 1/2 hours. The walking tour gave everyone an hour of free time and then was going to meet up again to head back to the boat. We decided to explore the city on our own.

We walked through the church, shopped for amber jewelry and then found a traditional Polish restaurant for lunch. We had lunch at Restauracja KOS. We had fish soup and Russian and Duck pierogis.

We caught the 3:00 pm shuttle bus back to the ship. Getting cleaned up, we joined our evening excursion at 4;15 pm. It was an evening Chopin Concert at the Polish Baltic Philharmonic. It is housed in an old converted power plant. The concert was just for Viking (two buses) and lasted just over an hour. I wish I had a program, but I don't. Sharon talked about playing some Chopin music after we get home.

We had dinner at The Restaurant by ourselves. We had a nice table along the windows. I had the DESTINATION MENU, including: Cheese Pierogi [polish cheese dumpling, sautéed in butter]; Kolety Schabowe [mushroom-stuffed pork cutlet], and; Milk Chocolate Rocher [hazelnut dacquoise, milk chocolate, praline cream[. Sharon had an asparagus salad, veal and a bite of my dessert.

We got a surprise in the afternoon. As we move towards our next stop, we are crossing a time zone; we lose an hour tonight. We had to manually adjust the time on our phones to Helsinki time...
We finished the night watching part of the second half of the lecture about Chopin. We crashed about 10:40 pm.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #15 - Bornholm (Rønne), Denmark

Scenic Bornholm

Visit Picturesque Island’s Charming Fishing Villages

Discover the natural beauty and charming villages of the idyllic island of Bornholm.

This picturesque Danish island is nicknamed solskinsøen (Sunshine Island) and klippeøen (Rock Island) for its weather and geology, respectively. Embark on a scenic drive by motor coach through the lush green fields of the island’s western coast en route to a photo stop at the largest castle ruins in Northern Europe, Hammershus. Continue along the island’s rugged northern side and glimpse Gudhjem, a small village situated on the steep cliffs. Leave the coastal road and visit one of the four round churches that can be found on Bornholm; these peculiar buildings were not just churches but served as fortresses during times of conflict. From the small village of Østerlars, travel through the island’s interior and return to your ship.

up at 6 am, we were eating breakfast at World Cafe as the ship sailed into port.

While we were eating breakfast, the Cruise Director came over the loud speaker and announced that there was a change in the schedule for the day. Originally, due to high winds, the captain thought that they wouldn't be able to dock until later in the morning. As a result, all of the excursions were rescheduled until later in the day. At the last minute, the wind died down and the ship was able to dock on schedule. Unfortunately, it wasn't possible to change the excursions back to the original schedule. As a result, our 8:30 am excursion had been rescheduled until 11:00 am.

We ended up crashing back in the room and taking a nap. Given that I am starting to fight a little bit of a headcold, this was a blessing.

Eventually heading to the Star Theater, we met our excursion. The excursion for the day was essentially a bus driving tour of the island. We made one stop at Hammershus. It is Scandinavia's largest medieval fortification and one of the larger ones in Northern Europe. Unfortunately, they only gave us twenty minutes at this stop. This was not enough time to walk all the way up to fortress.

Bornholm is famous for its four round churches, which are among the only seven round churches found in Denmark. These distinctive circular structures were built in the 12th and 13th centuries and served a dual purpose – as houses of worship and as defensive structures. Their thick walls and lack of windows offered protection from pirates and other invaders.

We were supposed to stop at one, but given it was Sunday, services were underway. They drove slowly by the church. I was dissappointed that we didn't get a chance to tour one of the churches.

When we got back to the ship, Sharon and I caught the shuttle bus into town for lunch. Using her superpower to find a restaurant, we wandered into Rønne and had a leisurely late lunch at Râzapâz. We had Tapas for two and a couple of glasses of wine.

After lunch, we wandered around the town a little. Sharon was looking for pins and doing some shopping. Given that it was Sunday, most of the stores were closed. We walked back to the ship.

Back at the boat, we did the Port Talk for Gdansk, Poland.

After the Port Talk, we went to a Guest Lecture by Steven Rivellino titled Fryderykk Chopin, Poland's Cherished Son. The lecuture explored the life and music of Chopin from his birth in Warsaw to his early days in Paris. The lecture was very good. We were seeing a Chopin concert as an excursion in Gdansk.

Getting cleaned up, we went to The Restaurant for dinner. Given that I was feeling under the weather, we sat alone. I had DESTINATION MENU, including: Smoked Haddock Fish Cake [leek and mature cheddar; dill mayonnaise]; Roasted Venison [butternut squash fondant, roasted parsnip; porcini truffle sauce], and, Chocolate Flabbergast [creamy & dense chocolate base, rocher shell, tonka cream]. Sharon had a Langoustines bisque, salmon and some of my dessert.

We finished the night in the Explorers' Lounge watching the ship sail along the coast of Bornholm. Sharon has started to call Bornholm Island the Boring Island. With me feeling under the weather, we crashed early about 9:30 pm.

2024 Viking Homelands - Day #14 - Berlin, Germany

Iconic Sights of Berlin

A Panoramic Tour of Berlin’s Historic Monuments

See the major sights of historic Berlin on this fascinating panoramic excursion by motor coach.

After an escorted train ride, meet your guide at the Berlin train station. Begin with a photo stop at the Berlin Wall and explore the historic St. Nicolas Quarter. Pass Checkpoint Charlie and see the City Hall of Schöneberg, where President Kennedy famously declared, “Ich bin ein Berliner” in 1963. At the Allied Museum, browse the exhibits chronicling the Allied occupation of Berlin between 1945 and 1952. Sample traditional German fare and enjoy a three-course lunch at a local restaurant. After, stop for photos at the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag, with its magnificent glass cupola. See the stunning Berlin Cathedral and stop at the Neue Wache memorial, dedicated to the victims of war and dictatorship. After taking time to reflect, return to your ship by train.

A long day. Up at 5:15 am, we had breakfast in the World Cafe. This is quickly becoming my least favorite place on the ship.

We joined a large group in the Atrium for our excursion. Although it is hard to believe, I thought that I heard that 700 of the 900 people on board were going to Berlin. Just after 7:00 am, we walked to a train. Viking had reserved a special train for the trip.

It was a two and a half hour ride to the Berlin. The train didn't have Wifi, but I used my phone as a hot spot to work on the blog entry for Copenhapen. I had a very loud, obnoxious person sitting across the aisle from me.

We were in Berlin just before 10:00 am. We walked to bus and drove to the Allied Museum. It documents the history of the Western Allies (US, France and Britain) in Berlin following World War II, particularly focusing on the period between 1945 and 1994. At best, it is "C" museum. Sharon was able to buy a couple of pins.

Back on the bus, we drove towards the Brandenburgh Gate. It ws built between 1788 and 1791, it was originally a city gate marking the start of the road from Berlin to Brandenburg an der Havel. We started to run into some problems at this point. A EuroCup quarter-final game between Netherlands and Turkey was scheduled for the evening. The town was packed with people, particularly Dutch fans in orange. We were able to get off the bus and see the Brandenburgh Gate, but unfortunately, we couldn't go the Reichstag due to the fan zone.

We had a nice lunch at Braufactum. It included potato salad, sourkraut, salad, sausages and schnitzel with ice cream for dessert.

After lunch, we drove past Checkpoint Charlie, the City Hall and an interesting section of the wall decorated by artists. We got off the bus at Museum Island. We toured the Neue Wache memorial and the Berlin Catherdal. Sharon and I could probably spend two days exploring the museums in this area.

Next, we went to the Berlin Wall Memorial. The memorial includes the last remaining section of the Berlin Wall with its full depth preserved, allowing visitors to see the various elements of the border strip as it existed in the late 1980s. There was a viewing platform that allowed a view into the border strip.

We were back at the train before 4:30 pm. It was an easy two and a half ride back to the ship. I finished the blog entry for Copenhagen and read my book.

Dropping our stuff in the room, we went to the World Cafe for a quick dinner. This turned into a little bit of shit show. It was loud, chaotic and packed with people. We struggled to get the waiter's attention to get the premium wine list. It was a German meal very similar to the lunch. The experience cemented my negative feelings about the World Cafe.

Afterwards, we walked towards the Explorers' Lounge. As we did, we realize that we could have had the same dinner in the Pool Grill in a much more intimate atmosphere; we kicked ourselves.

We finished the evening watching the ship sail away from port. We crashed hard just before 10:00 pm.