Team of Five: The Presidents Club in the Age of Trump

My book for September was Team of Five: The Presidents Club in the Age of Trump by Kate Andersen Brower. Wallen recommended the book.

Several parts of the book were particularly poignant for me. The relationship between Bill Clinton and George H. W. Bush is fascinating. After a heated campaign against each other, they came together to support a number of projects and initiatives later in life. It almost seems like H. W. became a surrogate father to Clinton.

I particularly like George H. W. Bush's core values. “His life code was: Tell the truth. Don’t blame people. Be strong. Do your best. Try hard. Forgive. Stay the course.”

I continue to be fascinated by Jimmy Carter. Carter has obviously accomplished an enormous amount in this post presidency. Nevertheless, he is a prickly person. As highlighted in the biography that I read last year, Carter is not a collaborative person. he exists on the edge of this group of past presidents.

The book also reenforces a number of things that I continue to be uncomfortable with about Trump. He lies. As Obama said while he campaigned for Democratic candidates, Trump lies “blatantly, repeatedly, baldly, shamelessly.” He is thin skinned. As highlighted in this book, Trump just won't take anyone else's counsel. As John Bolton said, Trump wanted to do what he wanted to do, based on what he knew and what he saw as his own best personal interests.

I enjoyed the book and recommend it. I need to read biographies of all five of these presidents. Sharon started reading it on the way back from the Balkans. She is also enjoying the book.

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #20 - To Carmichael

Day 18 Return to U.S. or begin post-trip extension

• Included Meals: Breakfast

Breakfast: Included at the hotel.

Morning: After breakfast, depart to the airport for your return flight home. Or, transfer to the airport and begin your post-trip extension to Serbia: Novi Sad & Belgrade.

We set our alarms for 3:50 am, but were up and moving about 3:30 am. We met the tour guide in the hotel lobby at 4:50 am. There were six of us going to the airport: Susan, Diane, Joan, Holly, Van, Sharon and I. OATS gave us a breakfast box.

Loading in a van, it took about 25 minutes to get to the small Ljubljana airport. Checking the bags went quickly. There was no one in line at security!

The six of us caught a 6:55 am flight to Frankfurt. It left a little early. We were on the ground in Frankfurt ahead of schedule at 8:15 am.

After taking a busfrom the plane to the terminal, it was about a twenty minute walk to the Z gates for our flight. We had a nice short two hour layover that went by quickly.

They loaded our flight to San Francisco about 15 minutes late. Holly, Van, Sharon and I all had premium economy seats. It was the same odd configuration that we had on the way over. The premium economy seats were sandwiched between two sections of economy seats. Holly and Van had the same exit row seats that we had before.

Like the way over, I was very disappointed with the premium economy service. Although they gave us a special menu with food and beverage options, I tried to order a drink and they didn't have any hard alcohol on the cart... United has much better service for their premium economy seats. I am going to try and avoid Lufthansa in the future.

With Sharon feeling under the weather, I let her have the aisle seat. Although I got restless during the 11 1/2 hour flight, it went fairly fast. I didn't sleep. I worked on my blog, finished my book (Chain Gang All-Stars) and listened to a Bill Simmons podcast.

We were on the ground on schedule about 12:50 pm. Using Global Entry, the four of us breezed through passport control. It took almost an hour for us to get our luggage.

Holly had arranged for El Dorado Express to pick us up. In the shuttle about 2:00 pm, we were home in Carmichael at 3:45 pm.

It was just about exactly 18 hours door to door. This is pretty quick. For comparison, coming home from the Scandinavian trip was about 25 hours door to door.

It was a great time. We are planning a couple of other trips with Holly and Van. Additionally, I am very interested in doing another Overseas Adventure Travel Trip. More thoughts on all of this in the future.

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #19 - Ljubljana, Slovenia

Day 17 Ljubljana • Cruise on the Ljubljanica River

• Destination: Ljubljana
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
• Accommodations: uHotel Ljubljana or similar

Breakfast: Included at the hotel.

Morning: We’ll see the city from a new perspective during a private cruise along the Ljubljanica River (weather permitting). We’ll first sail past the suburbs of Ljubljana, a popular place to spot local wildlife such as ducks and, if we are lucky, nutrias (a semi-aquatic rodent similar in appearance to a beaver). We may also see fellow boaters from the local sport club as they practice their strokes aboard their kayaks and canoes. After passing Gruber’s canal—an artificial canal built in the 18th century for water regulation—we’ll turn back and take in views of Ljubljana Castle. As we cruise back towards the city, we’ll encounter Ljubljana’s many interesting bridges.

After we return and disembark, the rest of the morning is yours to spend as you please.

Lunch: On your own. You might want to sample štruklji, a traditional Slovenian boiled or baked dough roll with fillings such as tarragon, cottage cheese, or walnuts. Your Trip Experience Leader will be happy to provide other local suggestions as well.

Afternoon: Continue to explore Ljubljana on your own. Perhaps you’ll choose to rent a bike for the day and leisurely cycle around the city. Or maybe you’ll visit Ljubljana Castle, originally built as a fortress in the eleventh century.

Later, we’ll reconvene with our fellow travelers for a farewell drink before setting off for dinner.

Dinner: Included at a local restaurant, where we’ll enjoy a Farewell Dinner and toast to our discoveries.

Evening: The evening is yours. Perhaps you’d like to pack for your return trip home, or sample a last glass of the region’s wine.

I have really enjoyed Ljubljana over the last couple of days. It feels very different than the other major cities that we visited. It seems very vibrant and young.

With a much later start to the day, I went to the fitness center. I did a ten minute Peloton core workout and then walked on the treadmill for twenty minutes. I have been able to keep a streak alive for the last seventeen days alternating between core and bodyweight or upper body strength workouts.

After being sick at the beginning of the trip, Sharon started to get a cold on Thursday. She was feeling worse on Saturday morning. I am usually the one that gets sick on trips!

After a quick bite to eat at the buffet in the hotel, we met the group at 9:30 am in the lobby. We walked back into the old town and took a boat ride on the Ljubljanica River. The boat ride was cut short due to some race activity. In total, it lasted about 45 minutes. While it provided a little different view of the central part of the city, it was underwhelming.


Afterwards, Sharon and I wandered the old city. We walked through City Hall. Sharon did some shopping.

We had an early lunch at Pop's Place Pizza. We split a SOFIA [Bufala Mozzarella Campana, Fior di Latte di Agerola, ‘Gargano’ pelati (Puglia), Tomato “Pizzutello” Pomodorini di, Carbone, Reggiano Parmigiano, 14 months,Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil].

After lunch, I walked Sharon back to the hotel. She ended up taking a nap for a couple of hours.

I did the Rick Steves walking tour of the city. It included the Riverside Market, the Dragon Bridge, the Cathedral, the City Museum and one of the few monuments erected to Napoleon oustide of France. Rick Steves' two highest rated sights for Ljubljana are people watching and the Riverside Market.

I was pleasantly surprised by the interior of the Cathedral of St. Nicholas. The original church on this site was built in the Gothic style in the 13th century. However, it was destroyed by a fire in 1469. The current cathedral was constructed in the early 18th century. It was designed in the Baroque style by architect Andrea Pozzo. The cathedral's interior features stunning Baroque decorations, including frescoes painted by Giulio Quaglio between 1703-1706 and 1721-1723. The ceiling of the main nave is also adorned with Quaglio's artwork.


I also enjoyed the City Museum of Ljubljana; it is housed in the historic Auersperg Palace The basement level has some Romain ruins including part of a Roman road. I got my Roman fix for the trip. The upper level has a detailed history of the evolution of the city.

As I was getting to the end of the Rick Steves walking tour, it started to pour. I headed to the Dvorni Wine Bar that the Tour Leader pointed out earlier in the day. I had a couple of glasses of Slovenian red wines that the waiter recommended.

Eventually, I headed back to the hotel. I was still raining hard.

The group met in a conference room at the hotel at 6:00 pm for a farewell drink. Afterwards the group headed to RESTAVRACIJA OPERNA KLET for the farewell dinner. I had trout, while Sharon had roast beef.

With an early flight home on Sunday morning, Sharon and I headed back to the hotel early. We crashed just after 9:00 pm.

A note. I am writing this blog entry on the flight from Frankfurt to San Francisco. We are approaching Greenland...

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #18 - Lake Bled

Day 16 Ljubljana • Lake Bled

• Destination: Ljubljana
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
• Accommodations: Hotel Ljubljana or similar

Breakfast: Included at the hotel.

Morning: Today you will embark on a full-day excursion to Lake Bled (subject to local weather conditions). As we’ll see during a panoramic drive, the resort area of Lake Bled features a 17th-century church perched on an islet in the middle of the lake and an 800-year-old castle clinging to a rocky cliff, all against a backdrop of the Julian Alps.

After exploring the area around the lake, we’ll board a pletna boat (weather permitting), the locals’ version of a gondola, to reach Bled Island, located in the middle of the lake. We’ll disembark at the island and join our Trip Experience Leader for a walk, culminating at the island’s famous Church of the Assumption. We’ll then ride our pletna back to the mainland.

Lunch: Included at a local restaurant in the town of Radovljica.

Afternoon: We’ll return to our hotel after lunch. The remainder of the day is free for your own discoveries. Check with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas.

Dinner: On your own. Maybe you’ll choose to sample local pork sausage, known as krajnska klobasa, or savor jota, a hearty stew made from sauerkraut, kidney beans, potatoes, and garlic. Just make sure you save room for Slovenia’s famous cream cake, kremna rezina. Evening: Tonight, you’ll have free time to explore Ljubljana on your own.

We have been really lucky with the weather during the trip. While there was been rain, it never really rained during an organized OATS excursion. Our luck ran out today.

After breakfast at hotel, we were on the bus at 8:30 am. The itinerary for the day was Lake Bled. As we headed there, it poured.

The first stop was the Bled Castle. The castle dates back to 1004 when it was conferred to the Bishop of Brixen by the German King Henry II. The castle features a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. It has been restored several times over the centuries.

From there, we headed to the lake. We loaded into a pletna boat. These wooden boats have a distinctive pointed bow and colorful awnings. They have been a staple on Lake Bled for centuries and their use is deeply rooted in local tradition.

We took the boat to Bled Island. We visited the Church of the Assumption of Mary. Sharon rang the wishing bell. Some of the group climbed the bell tower.

Frankly, the visit was a little disappointing due to the weather. You couldn't see the high mountains that surround the lake due to the low clouds. The Austrian border is only 29 miles north of Lake Bled. It rained off and on the whole time we were at the castle and the lake.

Taking the boat back to the bus, we headed to Radovljica for lunch. We had lunch at Gostina Avgustin. We had a mushroom and pasta soups, a salad and trout with mash potatoes.

We were back in Ljubljana by 3:30 pm.


Holly, Van, Sharon and I finished the day with early dinner at Restavracija Strelec. It has been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. We had a small adventure getting a taxi up to the restaurant. It is located in the Archers Tower of the Ljubljana Castle. All four of us had the five course tasting menu with the wine pairing. It included:

• AMOUSE BOUCHE
• BREAD, SMOKED BUTTER;
• TATAR [ROE DEER, HAZELNUTS, FOIE GRAS, PERILA OR SHISO LEAVES CELERIAC];
• PASTA [AGED CHEESE, CHANTERELLES AND CELERY];
• ONION [ALBUMIN COTTAGE CHEESE, BEER, AMAR CHEESE, YEAST];
• SEA FISH [TURBOT, BROWN BUTTER, LEMON, SWISS CHARD, NETTLE, ADRIATIC PRAWNS];
• VEAL [EGGPLANTS, PINE NUTS, OLIVES AND SMOKED BONE MARROW];
• PEACH [ROSEMARY AND HONEY]; and,
• PETIT FOURS.

For entrees, Sharon had the veal, while I had the fish. The food and the setting was amazing. This will compete for the best dinner of the trip.

Getting a taxi back to the hotel, Sharon and I crashed about 10:00 pm.

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #17 - Postojna Caves

Day 15 Overland to Ljubljana, Slovenia • Visit Postojna Cave

• Destination: Ljubljana
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
• Accommodations: Hotel Ljubljanaor similar

Breakfast: Included at the hotel.

Morning: Today, we’ll check out of our hotel and transfer to Ljubljana. We’ll observe a sharp contrast in the scenery as we journey inland into Slovenia, a forest-clad country of meadows, alpine villages, and soaring mountain peaks. This Slavic nation was the first to claim independence and break away from the Yugoslav federation, and it largely escaped involvement in the Balkan wars of the 1990s.

Along the way, we’ll stop at Postojna Cave, a 12-mile-long underground labyrinth in eastern Slovenia that is considered one of the finest karst limestone formations in the world. You’ll enter the cave on a brief but informative train ride, and then enjoy an audio tour as you walk on your own through the cave to view a diverse collection of tunnels, sculpted galleries, stalactites and stalagmites, chambers, and cave-dwelling olms—sightless, snake-like amphibians that can only be seen here.

Lunch: Included at a restaurant near Postojna Cave.

Afternoon: We’ll continue our drive to Ljubljana and check in to our hotel in the mid-afternoon.

Later in the afternoon, a local guide will lead us through this thriving university town on a walking tour. Our guide will highlight the bridges spanning the river Ljubljanica and the narrow streets of its café-lined Old Town. We’ll also see buildings, parks, monuments, and bridges, many of which were designed by innovative local architect Joze Plecnik.

Dinner: On your own. Keep in mind that Slovene cuisine is incredibly diverse, so your Trip Experience Leader can make a recommendation for whatever you’re craving.

Evening: Continue to explore Ljubljana on your own. You may wish to settle into your room, or grab a drink at the hotel’s bar. Or, you can stroll the streets of Ljubljana, listening to its popular street musicians.

Up at 6 am, we put the bags out in the hall at 7:45 am. After a buffet breakfast at the hotel, we were on the bus before 8:30 am.

We were at the Postojna Caves about 10:00 am. Lining up before 10:45 am, we had a 11:00 am entry.

We were given an audio guide and then loaded in a train. It took about fifteen minutes to get the train loaded and then travel to the start of the walking tour.

The walking tour was about 75 minutes long. It is fantastical! I really enjoyed it. Like lots of experiences, the pictures don't do it justice. I found the audio guide a little distracting. It was nice just to walk and soak in the surroundings.

Towards the end, there was an aquirium containing Olms. Olms are completely blind, having lost their eyes over millions of years of evolution in the dark cave environment. Their skin is pale due to the lack of sunlight. They have a long, slender body that resembles a salamander, with four tiny legs and external gills.

After the walking tour, we caught the train back out of the caves. As we are exiting, there is an amazing view of the underground river that runs through the caves.

We had lunch in the restaurant at the caves. It was a very Austrian meal: schnitzel and mashed potatoes.

Back in the bus, we headed to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. We are staying three nights at the Hotel Lev.

After getting settled in the room, the group met in the lobby. We did a long walking tour with a local guide. Fighting a sore throat, Sharon decided to take a nap. Although the guide was very verbose and shared more detail than you could absorb, I really enjoyed the city. It is very European. It seems more vibrant than anywhere we have been on this trip. I am looking forward to exploring it more over the next couple of days.

I walked back to the hotel to get Sharon. She and I wandered back to the old city for dinner. Holly, Sharon and I ended up having a hamburger at Fetiche. Van had decided to go to a local concert. Although the weather was threatening rain, we sat on a high table outside along the river. There were a lot of people out and about.

The three of us wandered back to the hotel. Sharon crashed about 9:00 pm. I worked on the blog for another hour. I have typically been finishing the entry for the previous day before I go to bed each night. [Note to self], I really need to figure how some kind fo template to use to speed the process. I feel like keeping the blog up to date has a little too much overhead.

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #16 - Istrian Peninsula

Day 14 Opatija • Optional Hill Towns of Istria tour

• Destination: Opatija
• Included Meals: Breakfast
• Accommodations: Hotel Admiral or similar

Breakfast: Included at the hotel.

Morning: Today you have the entire day free to explore Opatija at your leisure. Perhaps you’ll opt to spend the day relaxing, or take a stroll along a section of the famous Lungomare, a 7.5-mile-long waterfront promenade linking Opatija with Lovran, another small resort town dotted with aristocratic villas and manicured gardens.

Or, you may join our optional Hill Towns of Istria tour, featuring some of the hilltop villages and towns that surround the region. Those taking this tour will drive to Motovun—one of the region’s 136 medieval hill towns, where we’ll drive to the top of the city’s hill. Here, we’ll disembark to walk through town with a local guide, culminating at a family-owned truffle shop where we’ll learn about these local delicacies from one of the owners who will offer us a taste as well. After our shop visit, we’ll have some free time to enjoy the shops and cafés of Motovun on our own.

Then, we’ll depart Motovun and drive to the town of Hum, the next stop on our optional tour.

Lunch: For those not joining our optional tour, lunch is on your own. Your Trip Experience Leader will be happy to offer suggestions. Travelers who take our optional tour will enjoy lunch at a local restaurant in Hum, included in the cost of the tour.

Afternoon: For those who did not take the optional tour, continue your free time in Opatija. This afternoon, you may wish to visit St. Jacob’s Church, or wander through the historic Volosko neighborhood.

Travelers who take our optional tour will continue their explorations in Hum after lunch. With your Trip Experience Leader, you’ll explore the town on a guided tour, featuring local landmarks such as St. Jerome’s Chapel, whose interior contains a series of original medieval frescoes that date back as far as the twelfth century. You’ll also visit a local shop for a taste of handmade rakija (fruit brandy) and jam before driving back to your hotel in Opatija.

Dinner: On your own. Opatija is famous for its fresh seafood, so perhaps you’ll sample it tonight. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for suggestions.

Evening: The rest of the evening is yours to rest, relax, or continue exploring the coastal sights of Opatija.

Up at 6:00 am, my plan was to use the fitness center for an upper body workout. The door was locked. I checked back at 6:30 am and it was still locked. Stopping at the front desk to ask when it opened, they said it would be unlocked at 8:00 am!?! I ended up doing a bodyweight workout in the room.

After breakfast at the buffet in the hotel, we boarded the bus at 8:30 am. The plan for the day was exploring the Istrian Peninsula. As we were leaving Opatija, the local guide noted that we are only two and a half hours from Venice.

The first stop was meeting truffle hunter Nikola Tarandek for a truffle hunting demontration. Nikola had two mix breed dogs. He led the group a short distance into the forest looking for truffles. Not finding any, on the way back, Nikola had Paul go ahead of group and hide two truffles for the dogs to find. The dogs quickly found those. As he was talking about the dogs finding the planted truffles, the younger dog started digging furiously near the stream. He found a white truffle.


After the demonstration, we headed to the hilltop city of Motovun. Leaving the big bus behind, we took a shuttle bus up into the city. We did a walking tour that included the Church of St. Stephen and walking the well-preserved medieval walls. Along the way, we stopped at Bencic Truffles and tasted a number of products, including a variety of chocolates, salt and olive oil. After the walking tour, we had some free time in the city. Sharon bought a couple of prints and some truffle powder.


From Motovun, we headed to Hum for lunch. The Guinness World Records has listed Hum as the world's smallest town. Just as we pulled into town, it started to pour rain. We had lunch at HUMSKA KONOBA. Eating family style, we had soup, salad and two types of pasta. The penne pasta with truffles with good.

After lunch, we toured the Church of St. Jerome and walked fairly quickly through the Museum of Hum Aura with audio guides. We finished with a brandy tasting.


We were back at the hotel about 4:45 pm. Getting cleaned up, Holly, Van, Sharon and I took an Uber to Plavi Podrum. This is a Michelin rated restaurant.

All four of us had the Local Luxury course menu. It included:

• KVARNER CUTTLE-FISH SALAD [cuttle-fish, melon, dehydrated black olive powder];
• FOIS-GRAS STUFFED WITH SCAMPI [figs with Cassis];
• A PAIR OF KVARNER SCAMPI TAILS [bisque, parsnip cream, Granny Smith];
• MONK-FISH WELLINGTON [shrimp mousse, mushrooms, carrot]; and,
• LEMON [Valrhona Ivoire white Chocolate, lemon, poppy seeds, pistachios].

The food and the wine pairings were very good. This may be the best meal of the trip.

Catching an Uber back to the hotel, Sharon and I crashed just after 10:00 pm.

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #15 - to Opatija, Croatia

Day 13 Tuesday, Sep 24, 2024 - Overland to Opatija • Explore Rijeka

* Destination: Opatija
* Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
* Accommodations:
LIBURNIA GROUP HOTELS
Breakfast: Included at the hotel.

Morning: We'll check out of our hotel and begin our transfer to Opatija. En route, we'll stop to visit Rijeka, Croatia's third largest city. A bustling seaport on the Adriatic overlooking Kvarner Bay, Rijeka has a history that goes back to Imperial Rome. Renowned for its annual Carnival celebration, this bustling multicultural city was also honored- along with Galway — as a European Capital of Culture for 2020. As we'll see during our walking tour, along with a few Roman ruins, much of the architecture reflects Rijeka's time as part of the Austrian empire, especially in some of the graceful Habsburg palaces along the narrow streets of Old Town.

After our tour, you'll have some free time, perhaps to continue strolling the marble streets of Korzo, the pedestrian friendly area lined with shops and cafes running parallel to the harbor.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: We'll continue our drive to Opatija, arriving in the afternoon.

Located in the Kvarner Gulf that separates Dalmatia from Istria, Opatija is a seaside resort town situated in a heart-shaped peninsula just south of Trieste, Italy. Surrounded by landscaped parks and gardens dotted with grand villas with elegant facades, Opatija's history as a Mediterranean resort destination for wealthy European aristocrats, dignitaries, and artists stretches back to 1844.

After we check in to our hotel, you'll have some time to settle in and explore independently. Perhaps you'll grab a coffee at one of the seaside cafés, or take a leisurely stroll along the shore, passing colorful Habsburg-era villas. We'll regroup at the hotel before dinner for a short orientation walk with our Trip Experience Leader to see more of what Opatija has to offer.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: For the rest of the evening, you're welcome to rest and relax or explore Opatija as you wish. Perhaps you'll grab a sweet treat in one of its many shops, such as some of Croatia's famous chocolate or fresh cherry strudel. Or, simply soak in the beauty of the surrounding Adriatic on a moonlit walk.

Sharon named this day as "the day of bad food."

Packing up the room, we put the luggage in the hall just before 7:45 pm. After a mediocre buffet breakfast at the hotel, we met the group in the lobby at 8:30 am and loaded into the bus.

With one stop, we were in Rijeka just before 11:00 am. OATS changed the iternary from what was published. Rather than a walking tour of the city, we had a guided tour of Trsat Castle and the Church of Mary of God of Trsat.

Trsat Castle is a historic fortress located in the Trsat neighborhood of Rijeka, Croatia. It is situated atop a hill overlooking the city and the Kvarner Bay. The site has been occupied since ancient times, dating back to the Illyrian and Roman periods. In the 13th century, the Frankopan dukes of Krk fortified the site, transforming it into a formidable castle. After suffering damage from an earthquake in 1750, the castle was purchased by Austrian field marshal Laval Nugent, who restored it in a romantic neoclassical style.

After the castle, we toured the Church of Mary of God of Trsat. The church houses a venerated religious relic, the "Black Madonna of Trsat," a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary believed to have miraculous powers. According to the legend, the house in which Mary lived in Ephesus (Turkey) was miraculously transported to Trsat by angels in the 13th century.

We had lunch in downtown Rijeka at Konoba Feral. We had Pljukanci pasta with squid and a very odd sauce. It was not good.

In the early afternoon, we arrived in Opatija. We are spending two nights at the Hotel Imperial. After getting settled in the room, we went with the tour leader on a walk of the area.

After the orientation walk, Holly, Van, Sharon and I wandered the promenade. Opatija's promenade, known as the Lungomare, is a stunning coastal walkway that stretches for nine mlies along the Adriatic Sea. The four of us stopped and had a cocktail.

After some debate, we decided to join the group dinner at the hotel. The buffet was not very good.

We were back in the room early. While Sharon read, I crashed about 9:30 pm.

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #14 - Plitvice Lakes National Park

Day 12 Monday, Sep 23, 2024 - Zagreb • Explore Plitvice Lakes

• Destination: Zagreb
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
• Accommodations: BEST WESTERN HOTEL ASTORIA

Breakfast: At the hotel.

famous Plitvice Lakes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the heart of this 114-square-mile national park is a series of 16 turquoise lakes linked by a series of waterfalls and cascades. Bears and wolves call this region home, along with deer, boar, foxes, and more than 120 different species of birds, including hawks, wild ducks, and herons.

The lake system is divided into the upper and lower lakes, with about 440 feet of elevation between them. We'll explore the area on a walking tour with our Trip Experience Leader along some of the wooden footbridges of the lakes. After exploring this natural wonder, we'll sit down to lunch.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: After returning to Zagreb, the remainder of the day is free to relax or explore on your own.

Dinner: On your own.

Evening: Free to spend as you wish.

I have been alternating a Peloton five minute core with a ten minute bodyweight workout every morning since our first morning in Dubrovnik. I didn't bring my running shoes on this trip. Unlike the Viking cruise, I am not planning to run any time on this trip...

After an early breakfast at the hotel, we joined the group in the lobby and boarded the bus at 7:30 am. With one stop, it was about a two and a half drive to Plitvice Lake National Park.

We met a local guide at the enterance. We did a guided walking tour of Route A. This is essentially the big waterfall and the lower lakes. We covered about 2.4 miles in just under two hours. The moving time was just under one and a half hours.


The scenery was spectacular. My only regret was that we did hike any of the upper lakes. As I told the tour leader, I would have liked to have done another hour or two hiking along the upper lakes.


We had a late lunch at Restaurant Korana in the national park. We both had trout.

It was after 4:30 pm when we got back to the hotel. Getting cleaned up, Sharon and I walked down the street to Heritage. It is a Croatian street food restaurant. We had a flatbread and a glass of wine.

We met Holly, Van, Joan and Maureen in the lobby at 7:15 pm. Splitting up into two groups, we caught Ubers to the the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall. We saw José Carreras, one of the world’s greatest tenors, perform accompanied by the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra. Joining him on stage was conductor David Giménez, while the special guest for the evening was the renowned Croatian soprano, Martina Zadro.

Catching a Uber back to the hotel, it was almost 11:00 pm by the time we crashed.

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #13 - Zagreb, Croatia

Day 11 Explore Zagreb

• Destination: Zagreb
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
• Accommodations: Best Western Astoria Hotel or similar

Breakfast: Included at the hotel.

Morning: Explore Zagreb on a walking tour with a local guide. A city of more than 800,000 people, Zagreb has been Croatia’s capital, intermittently, since 1557. First, we’ll explore Zagreb’s modern Donji Grad, or Lower Town, whose well-designed street grid was laid out in the 19th century. This area is home to many of Zagreb’s civic and historic monuments.

Next, we’ll take a ride on a funicular (the shortest in Europe) to view the medieval monuments in the city’s Gornji Grad, or Upper Town. In this older part of the city, two medieval settlements, Gradec and Kaptol, developed between the eleventh and 14th centuries on neighboring hilltops divided by a brook. Fortified by ramparts and moats, the two rival towns fought over the centuries—the nearby street called Krvavi Most, or Bridge of Blood, is a testament to the historic rivalry.

In contemporary times, Gradec and Kaptol form two of the districts that make up Zagreb’s hilly Upper Town. Among the highlights of Upper Town are the tall twin spires of the Cathedral of St. Stephen, an ancient church dedicated to the Assumption. The cathedral’s neo-Gothic façade was added after an earthquake in 1880 destroyed its dome and bell tower. Our tour concludes with a visit to Dolac Market, a bustling collection of open-air stalls located across from the cathedral near the 14th-century Church of St. Mary.

Lunch: On your own. Perhaps you’ll sample Zagreb’s popular štrukli, a dough filled with cottage cheese and sour cream, or cuspajz, a meat and vegetable stew. Your Trip Experience Leader will be happy to provide recommendations.

Afternoon: The rest of your afternoon is free in Zagreb. You might choose to visit one of the city’s many unique museums, including Upper Town’s beloved Museum of Broken Relationships, an eclectic collection of items sent in by heartbroken people from around the world, along with heartfelt stories of their breakups.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: Continue your discoveries in Zagreb on your own, perhaps grabbing a nightcap with your fellow travelers in one of the city’s many bars.

Meeting in the lobby at 8:45 am, we walked to King Tomislav Square and met the local guide under the tail of the statue.


We walked to the funicular. Zagreb's funicular is a charming and historic mode of transportation that connects the Upper Town with the Lower Town. This iconic cable car system offers a scenic ride and provides a unique perspective of the city. The funicular has been operating since 1890, making it one of the oldest funiculars in Europe.


We wandered through the old town. We stopped at St. Mark's Church. The church's most striking feature is its tiled roof, adorned with the coats of arms of Zagreb and Croatia-Slavonia.

We passed through the The Stone Gate. It's one of the few remaining gates from the city's medieval walls and is now a popular pilgrimage site. It contains a small shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary.


We also passed the Statue of St. George Slaying the Dragon and the Cathedral. Unfortunately, the Cathedral was damaged in the 2020 earthquake is not open. Pictures of the towers without scaffolding are pretty amazing.


After the tour, Sharon and I walked the horseshoe. Lenuci's Horseshoe is a unique feature of Zagreb's Lower Town, a horseshoe-shaped system of parks and squares that forms a green oasis in the heart of the city. Designed by urban planner Milan Lenuci in the late 19th century, the horseshoe is a testament to Zagreb's commitment to urban green spaces.

Sharon and I toured the botanical Garden. The Zagreb Botanical Garden is a serene oasis nestled within the city's vibrant Lower Town. Founded in 1889 and opened to the public in 1891, it's a popular destination for nature enthusiasts and locals seeking a peaceful escape. It is home to over 10,000 plant species, including native Croatian flora and exotic plants from around the world. The tour guide had described it as a small botanical garden, but I was impressed by the variety.


We had a late leisurely lunch at Restoran Boban. I had Ricotta stuffed spinach ravioli in dessert wine sauce with prawns, while Sharon had Chicken marinated in mustard and honey, zucchini, feta cheese, crispy croutons, and pine nuts on a bed of baby lettuce and cherry tomatoes. I liked my meal more than she did.

] After lunch, we went back to the old city. Sharon did a little shopping on the way. We ended up at the Museum of Broken Relationships. It is a unique and thought-provoking museum. It's a collection of donated objects from people all over the world who have ended significant relationships. These items, accompanied by personal stories, offer a glimpse into the emotional experiences of love, loss, and heartbreak.

We had toured the Love Stories Musuem in Dubrovnik. I was pleasantly surprised by the Broken Relationship Museum; I enjoyed it more than I expected.

Sharon and I had a drink in the bar at hotel. Holly, Van, Sharon and I finished the day with dinner at the Michelin rated Pod Zidom Bistro. For starters, Sharon and I shared CHESTNUT AND MUSHROOM SOUP [chestnuts / mushrooms / mushroom oil / hazelnut praline paste] and APPLE AND KOHLRABI SALAD [apples / kohlrabi / apple gel / mint and lemon dressing / almonds]. We both had PORK TENDERLOIN WITH CORN AND PUMPKIN [pork tenderloin / pumpkin puree / polenta cakes / pickled pumpkin / kale chips]. The starters were very good, but the main was uninspired...

Wandering back to the hotel, we crashed just before 10 pm.