Thursday, September 19, 2024

2024 Crossroads of the Adriatic - Day #10 - Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Day 8 Explore Sarajevo Tunnel • Conversation about the impact of the Bosnian War on Sarajevo • Home-Hosted Dinner

• Destination: Sarajevo
• Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
• Accommodations: Hotel President or similar

Breakfast: At the hotel.

Morning: Today’s discoveries begin with a focus on Sarajevo’s more recent past, including the events that occurred following the violent breakup of former Yugoslavia in 1992. More than 10,000 people were killed during the siege of the city, with shells pouring in from the hills above the city. We’ll learn more about this when we drive to the famous Sarajevo Tunnel (also called the Tunnel of Hope), a vast underground passage dug in 1993 to ferry people out and bring supplies into the beleaguered city. While here, we will have the opportunity to venture inside an area of the tunnel staged with scenes that portray this dark period.

Back in Sarajevo, we’ll meet a local resident who will share their perspective on the three-and-a-half year siege of Sarajevo during the Balkan War of the 1990s. We’ll join them for a conversation about the continued tensions between the Serbian and Bosniak communities in Sarajevo, and gain insights into the difficulties facing the Serbian community living in Sarajevo today. Before the war, the population of Serbians in the city made up around 29.9%. Today, they are a minority and represent only about 4% of the total population in this predominantly Muslim city. After our discoveries here, we will drive back to the city.

Lunch: On your own in Sarajevo. You may wish to sample klepe—Bosnian dumplings filled with beef, lamb, or cheese and served with garlic sauce or yogurt. Your Trip Experience Leader is sure to provide other suggestions as well.

Afternoon: The afternoon is free to discover Sarajevo at your own pace. As you explore, take in the unique contrasts that earn Sarajevo its moniker as the city where east meets west. It’s a fascinating place to find yourself, where you might stroll through what feels like a Turkish bazaar one minute, and find yourself in the midst of Western-style shops and traditional Austro-Hungarian architecture the next minute.

You may choose to head out to the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and the first Saturday of every month between 12pm and 1pm, visitors are allowed to view the illuminated Jewish codex renowned throughout the world as the Sarajevo Haggadah.

Dinner: Tonight, we’ll learn more about the rich culture of Bosnia as we divide into smaller groups and drive by private motorcoach to visit some local families for a Home-Hosted Dinner. Our hosts’ home is located in a Soviet-style tower block in what was once known as “Sniper Alley.” This infamous nickname was given to a main boulevard in Sarajevo which, during the Bosnian War, was lined with snipers’ posts, and became an incredibly dangerous place for civilians to live and work in. We are the only travel company to offer this kind of one-on-one experience with a family who lived through the siege of Sarajevo. As we converse, we’ll enjoy authentic, home-cooked Bosnian cuisine.

Evening: Tonight, you can continue exploring Sarajevo on your own, or return to your hotel to rest and reflect on the day’s discoveries.
A disturbing day.

Sharon and I were both up before 6 am. As a result, I decided to go up to the fitness center and do a twenty minute upper body strength workout. While I have been doing core and bodyweight workouts every morning, this will probably be my only chance to get into a weight room.

After breakfast, we met the group and the local guide in the lobby at 8:30 am. We took a bus through sniper alley to the Sarajevo Tunnel. The tunnel was used to get supplies into Sarajevo during the 44 month siege from 1992 to 1995 during the Bosnia War.

The guide gave us an overview of the Tunnel and then we sat through a fifteen film with footage taken at the time. Half of the footage showed the shelling of Sarajevo, while the other half highlighted the operation of the tunnel.

Afterwards, we got a chance to walk through a tourist version of the tunnel. The north end of the actual tunnel is currently closed for repairs. The guide said that tourist have been able to explore part of the real tunnel in the past.

Heading back into the city, we went to the The Museum of Literature and Theater Arts. We had a presentation by a Bosnian Serb who lived through the siege as a child. One of the things that has struck me with several speakers in Sarajevo is that there seems to be a longing for Tito and Yugoslavia in Bosnia. Based on the Dayton accords, the political situation is very messy and complex.

Holly, Van, Sharon and I had lunch at Ćevabdžinica Petica - Ferhatović. The local guide had recommended the restaurant during the walking tour on Thursday. Sharon and I had Cevap (minced meat sausages).

After lunch, we toured City Hall. The original building was constructed in the late 19th century in a Moorish Revival style. It was designed by Austrian architect Karl von Tinzl. During the Bosnian War, the City Hall was heavily damaged by shelling and fire. The building was reduced to rubble. After the war, the City Hall was rebuilt using a combination of the original architectural elements and modern techniques. The reconstruction project was completed in 2014.

At this point, it started to rain. We tried to go into the Catholic Catherdal, but it wasn't open. The four of us ended up touring the Museums of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide and The Siege of Sarajevo. Both museums are very dense. The displays include lots of text. The stories got to be overwhelming.

The combination of all of the tours and museums left me very unsettled. It is hard for me to understand how people can treat other people so brutally.

We peeked in the Serbian Orthodox Church as we walked back to the hotel. The architecture was very different.

After we walked back to the hotel, Sharon and I had a quick drink in the Sky Lounge on the 7th floor. We met the group in the lobby at 6:30 pm.

We finished the day on a more life affirming note with a home hosted dinner in a Soviet era apartment building with a Muslim family. There were six people living in a 900 square foot apartment. The host, her husband, her mother-in-law, her 18 year old daughter, her 17 year old son and her seven year old daughter. The mother-in-law bought the apartment in 1984. We didn't talk about the war. The son was in the Sarajevo soccer academy. We ended up talking alot about soccer.

Tomorrow is one of the two long transfer days on the trip. Back at the hotel, Sharon and I packed and then crashed just before 10 pm.

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