Day 5 Explore Dubrovnik • Controversial Topic: The impact of the Balkan War on Dubrovnik • Farmstead visit
* Destination: Dubrovnik
* Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we will learn about a Controversial Topic when we meet a Balkan War survivor for a firsthand account of how Dubrovnik was battered during its brutal siege, and about how old grudges from that war still linger today. Read more about this eye-opening experience below.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, with European options.
Morning: We'll begin the day at around 9am when we board our private motorcoach and drive to the top of Srd Mountain, which lies just behind Dubrovnik. At 1,352 feet high, this peak offers idyllic views of the surrounding area, which we'll take in from different vantage points throughout our drive. We'll have an opportunity to witness sweeping vistas of Dubrovnik's towers and walls, as well as the steel-blue hue of the Adriatic.
At around 9:45am, we'll arrive at the top of the mountain and walk to the nearby War Museum, where we'll speak with an eyewitness about the Controversial Topic of the Homeland War of the Balkans and the impact it has had —and continues to have— on Dubrovnik, as well as the region. Today, Croatia still contends with having to rebuild war-torn edifices, but beyond crumbling infrastructure, the prejudice and xenophobia at the root of the conflict remains palpable. The location we'll be visiting is a painfully relevant setting for this conversation; considered a strategic war location, the Fortress in Sid Mountain suffered violent attacks from the Serbs, resulting in countless casualties around the area.
We'll learn how this turbulent period has shaped Croatia when we meet with Mira Knezevic, a survivor of the war (if Mira is unavailable, we will be joined by another survivor with a comparable perspective). Born and raised in Korcula, Mira moved to Dubrovnik to attend university, where she studied at the undergraduate and graduate levels. Over the years, she has worked as an educator and currently works as a translator and local guide, developing a deep knowledge of political history in the region. She is particularly informed about the Homeland War of the Balkans, having lived through it, which she'll provide ample background information on before outlining the residual effects that still permeate modern-day Croatian culture.
Following the Allied victory in World War II, Yugoslavia was formed as a federation of six communist republics with borders that divided populations according to ethnicity and background: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, and Slovenia. From the very beginning of this union, Croatia experienced many challenging times—all which led up to the Homeland War of the Balkans (1991-1995). This high-stakes conflict was fought between Croat forces loyal to the government of Croatia, which sought independence from the republic of Yugoslavia, and the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People's Army, which vehemently opposed this secession.
On June 25th, 1991, Croatia officially escalated tensions by defying Serbian rule and declaring independence, after which years of siege, ground combat (often fought by local people who were not affiliated with any kind of military group), and various offensives followed. In 1995, two of these offensives -known as Operation Flash and Operation Storm - effectively ended the war in a victory for Croatia. In the wake of this enormous achievement, the country was sent into a tailspin, with an estimated $37 billion in damaged infrastructure and tens of thousands of people either displaced or killed (most of whom were Muslim Bosniaks and Catholic Croats). Furthermore, by the end of the war, around half of the population had sought asylum in the neighboring country of Bosnia and Herzegovina, leaving Croatia with a broken and dwindling populace. Decades later, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia still works to assist victims, resolve war crimes, and establish punishments for war criminals involved in this prolonged conflict.
This may be a hard conversation, and we will confront the ugly realities of war and nationalism— about what has happened still needs to be done. Approach this experience and personal testimony with an open mind. We'll hear Mira's stories for about 20 minutes, and then have around 45 minutes to ask any additional questions we may have, followed by a few minutes to explore the museum.
At around 11am, we'll walk to the nearby cable car station where we'll descend back down to Dubrovnik.
Lunch: On your own. Check with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas. Perhaps you'll grab a drink at Café Buza, tucked into the Old Town walls, or simply stroll the historic streets.
Afternoon: Enjoy free time to explore the Old City of Dubrovnik this afternoon. Perhaps you'd like to journey through the history of 20th-century Croatia during a visit to the Red History Museum or soak up the medieval charms of St. Joseph Street located inside the defensive stone walls of the city. Or, you might rather spend some time exploring the baroque-style Dubrovnik Cathedral and its renowned array of interior artworks, such as a 16th-century triptych of the Ascension of Mary by the renaissance painter Titian.
Later this afternoon, we'll gather back together and board a private motorcoach for a 1-hour drive to the rural Konavle region outside of Dubrovnik. Here, we'll escape the tourists of Old Town to get a more authentic look at the area with a visit to a private, family-owned farmstead and winery—a recently added feature. Upon our arrival, we'll be welcomed by our host, who will introduce us to the estate. After our introduction, they'll lead us to the wine cellar where we'll enjoy a wine tasting of grappa, prosecco, one local red, and one local white—accompanied by local cheese, olives, and prosciutto-while we learn how all of these delicacies are produced. Then, our host will take us on a walk around the property, stopping at several points to explain the significance of a particular location, as well as how it has evolved throughout the history of the farm.
Dinner: At the family farmstead around 5:45pm, where we'll enjoy farm-fresh food and local music. Tonight's meal will consist of veal (or lamb, if you prefer) served "under the bell," a traditional preparation in which the meat is slow-cooked under a large, iron bell and covered with ashes and embers. The main dish will be served with potatoes and vegetables and followed by homemade apple pie for dessert. As you dine, enjoy the live folk music, and if you'd like, learn how to dance the Lindo, a traditional celebratory dance of Dubrovnik.
Evening: Around 7:30pm, we'll depart for the 30-minute private motorcoach ride back to the hotel. On your last night in Dubrovnik, you'll be free to enjoy the city on your own. Following dinner, perhaps you'll stop at a local restaurant for a nightcap, or consult with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas.
* Destination: Dubrovnik
* Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
* Accommodations: Hotel Lero
Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we will learn about a Controversial Topic when we meet a Balkan War survivor for a firsthand account of how Dubrovnik was battered during its brutal siege, and about how old grudges from that war still linger today. Read more about this eye-opening experience below.
Breakfast: Served at our hotel starting around 7am, with European options.
Morning: We'll begin the day at around 9am when we board our private motorcoach and drive to the top of Srd Mountain, which lies just behind Dubrovnik. At 1,352 feet high, this peak offers idyllic views of the surrounding area, which we'll take in from different vantage points throughout our drive. We'll have an opportunity to witness sweeping vistas of Dubrovnik's towers and walls, as well as the steel-blue hue of the Adriatic.
At around 9:45am, we'll arrive at the top of the mountain and walk to the nearby War Museum, where we'll speak with an eyewitness about the Controversial Topic of the Homeland War of the Balkans and the impact it has had —and continues to have— on Dubrovnik, as well as the region. Today, Croatia still contends with having to rebuild war-torn edifices, but beyond crumbling infrastructure, the prejudice and xenophobia at the root of the conflict remains palpable. The location we'll be visiting is a painfully relevant setting for this conversation; considered a strategic war location, the Fortress in Sid Mountain suffered violent attacks from the Serbs, resulting in countless casualties around the area.
We'll learn how this turbulent period has shaped Croatia when we meet with Mira Knezevic, a survivor of the war (if Mira is unavailable, we will be joined by another survivor with a comparable perspective). Born and raised in Korcula, Mira moved to Dubrovnik to attend university, where she studied at the undergraduate and graduate levels. Over the years, she has worked as an educator and currently works as a translator and local guide, developing a deep knowledge of political history in the region. She is particularly informed about the Homeland War of the Balkans, having lived through it, which she'll provide ample background information on before outlining the residual effects that still permeate modern-day Croatian culture.
Following the Allied victory in World War II, Yugoslavia was formed as a federation of six communist republics with borders that divided populations according to ethnicity and background: Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, and Slovenia. From the very beginning of this union, Croatia experienced many challenging times—all which led up to the Homeland War of the Balkans (1991-1995). This high-stakes conflict was fought between Croat forces loyal to the government of Croatia, which sought independence from the republic of Yugoslavia, and the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People's Army, which vehemently opposed this secession.
On June 25th, 1991, Croatia officially escalated tensions by defying Serbian rule and declaring independence, after which years of siege, ground combat (often fought by local people who were not affiliated with any kind of military group), and various offensives followed. In 1995, two of these offensives -known as Operation Flash and Operation Storm - effectively ended the war in a victory for Croatia. In the wake of this enormous achievement, the country was sent into a tailspin, with an estimated $37 billion in damaged infrastructure and tens of thousands of people either displaced or killed (most of whom were Muslim Bosniaks and Catholic Croats). Furthermore, by the end of the war, around half of the population had sought asylum in the neighboring country of Bosnia and Herzegovina, leaving Croatia with a broken and dwindling populace. Decades later, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia still works to assist victims, resolve war crimes, and establish punishments for war criminals involved in this prolonged conflict.
This may be a hard conversation, and we will confront the ugly realities of war and nationalism— about what has happened still needs to be done. Approach this experience and personal testimony with an open mind. We'll hear Mira's stories for about 20 minutes, and then have around 45 minutes to ask any additional questions we may have, followed by a few minutes to explore the museum.
At around 11am, we'll walk to the nearby cable car station where we'll descend back down to Dubrovnik.
Lunch: On your own. Check with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas. Perhaps you'll grab a drink at Café Buza, tucked into the Old Town walls, or simply stroll the historic streets.
Afternoon: Enjoy free time to explore the Old City of Dubrovnik this afternoon. Perhaps you'd like to journey through the history of 20th-century Croatia during a visit to the Red History Museum or soak up the medieval charms of St. Joseph Street located inside the defensive stone walls of the city. Or, you might rather spend some time exploring the baroque-style Dubrovnik Cathedral and its renowned array of interior artworks, such as a 16th-century triptych of the Ascension of Mary by the renaissance painter Titian.
Later this afternoon, we'll gather back together and board a private motorcoach for a 1-hour drive to the rural Konavle region outside of Dubrovnik. Here, we'll escape the tourists of Old Town to get a more authentic look at the area with a visit to a private, family-owned farmstead and winery—a recently added feature. Upon our arrival, we'll be welcomed by our host, who will introduce us to the estate. After our introduction, they'll lead us to the wine cellar where we'll enjoy a wine tasting of grappa, prosecco, one local red, and one local white—accompanied by local cheese, olives, and prosciutto-while we learn how all of these delicacies are produced. Then, our host will take us on a walk around the property, stopping at several points to explain the significance of a particular location, as well as how it has evolved throughout the history of the farm.
Dinner: At the family farmstead around 5:45pm, where we'll enjoy farm-fresh food and local music. Tonight's meal will consist of veal (or lamb, if you prefer) served "under the bell," a traditional preparation in which the meat is slow-cooked under a large, iron bell and covered with ashes and embers. The main dish will be served with potatoes and vegetables and followed by homemade apple pie for dessert. As you dine, enjoy the live folk music, and if you'd like, learn how to dance the Lindo, a traditional celebratory dance of Dubrovnik.
Evening: Around 7:30pm, we'll depart for the 30-minute private motorcoach ride back to the hotel. On your last night in Dubrovnik, you'll be free to enjoy the city on your own. Following dinner, perhaps you'll stop at a local restaurant for a nightcap, or consult with your Trip Experience Leader for ideas.
I was not feeling well. I am sure that the squid that I had at lunch in Kotor was not good... Moving slowly, Sharon and I eventually went down to breakfast. I had a couple of pieces of toast.
At 8:45 am, we met the group in the lobby. They loaded all of us into three mini vans and drove us to the top of Mount Srd. We spent the morning at Fort Imperial. The fort was built by Napoleon’s troops in the early 1800s. We had a talk from a survivor of the siege of Dubrovnik during the Croatia War for Independence. There was a follow-up question and answer period. Afterwards, we wandered through the War Museum housed in the fort.
There was a great view of the old city from the panoramic deck surrounding the tram. Have I said recently how much I dislike heights?
Holly, Van, Sharon and I went to the Buza Bar for a cold drink. We were actually able to get a table for four with an umbrella for shade. Unfortunately, Holly started to feel sick!?! Holly and Van headed back to the hotel.
After lunch, Sharon and I caught an Uber back to the hotel.
Rejoing the group in the lobby at 3:00 pm, we were loaded in a sprinter. We finished the day with olive oil and wine tasting and dinner at the Stone Mill. The olive oil tasting discussion was interesting, but Sharon and I were not impressed by the wine. Still feeling under the weather, I ate very little at dinner (pork?). Van came to the dinner, but Holly headed up staying at the hotel.
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