Monday, September 15, 2025

2025 South Africa, Zimbabwe & Zambia - Day #15 - Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve

Elephants, African Wild Dogs and Lions!


Up at 5:05 am, we met the group at 6 am. We were out on the game drive by 6:15 am.

It was a slow start to the morning. After some rain overnight, it seemed like the animals were bedded down. Eventually, we started to follow a couple of groups of elephnats. Johan's background is a zoologist and his master's theis was on elephant vision. He was very fond of the elephnats.

We watched the elephants pulling up trees to eat the roots. They were also stripping the bark off the trees to get to the cambium layer of the tree.

At some point, the guide got a call on the radio. We left the elephants. We ended getting a chance to see African Wild Dogs for a second time. The included 11 adults and 8 puppies.

African wild dogs (also known as painted dogs or painted wolves) are listed as "Endangered" on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. For comparison, Cheetahs are classified as "Vulnerable." "Endangered" is a more severe conservation status. The global population of African wild dogs is significantly smaller than that of cheetahs.


As we were wrapping up a late breakfast, a young male hippo wandered towards the watering hole below the lodge. It is the first time that we have seen a hippo out of water! For breakfast, I had eggs on avocado ciabatta toast.

For the second day in a row, we skipped lunch. After updating my blog, I wandered down to the fitness center. I did a 10 minute Peloton core workout and then walked for 2 miles on the treadmill.

Sharon and I had a very cool experience in the afternoon. A large herd of elephants gathered at the watering hole behind our room. At one point, a young female came over and tried to drink out of the pool on our deck; her trunk wasn't long enough. A little while later, a larger elephant started towards the pool. Sharon got up to get into a better position to take a video. The elephant saw her, stopped and wagged its head back and forth. Our guide told us that this is an acknowledgment that they see you and that everything is cool.
Being able to watch the animals the watering hole made Sharon much happier about the room.

The evening game drive focused on a small pride of lions (1 males and 3 females). They were laying in the grass along the Sand River. There was some excitement when the guide attempted to park near the lions and the vehicle starting to tilting to one side.

The evening break was a beautiful spot overlooking the Sand River. It was one of the nicest sunsets that we have seen.


We had dinner in the BOMA again. I had a oxtail curry as my main course on top fo Stywe Pap (Stiff Pap). Pap, also known as mieliepap in South Africa, is a traditional porridge made from coarsely ground maize meal (mielie-meal). It is a thicker, firmer porridge that can be served with stews, meat, or vegetables.

Tomorrow is a travel day. Packing up the room after dinner, it was almost 10 pm by the time that we crashed.

Sunday, September 14, 2025

2025 South Africa, Zimbabwe & Zambia - Day #14 - Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve

Rothschild Safaris Itinerary


TYPICAL DAY IN THE SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE

The Sabi Sands Game Reserve is a private reserve sharing a border with the famous Kruger National Park with no fences separating the two renowned safari destinations, which makes it a fabulous game experience year-round. The area is known for its predators, attracted by the abundance of plains game.

A typical day will have you waking up early to head out with your guide in search of tracks and spoor leading to those coveted wildlife sightings either by vehicle or on foot, and often a combination of both. Back at the lodge the staff will pamper you with great service and big smiles whilst you relax in between activities. In the evening dine on delicious food and sit around the campfire listening to the nightly sounds of the bush.

GAME DRIVES
Professional and knowledgeable rangers conduct early morning and late afternoon/evening game drives daily in search of Africa's big game. The latest state-of-the-art, open game drive vehicles have individual bucket seats and centre consoles, ensuring optimum safety and comfort. Leopard Hills prides itself on some of the industry's finest rangers, and they offer a safari experience like no other, from sightings of big game in their natural surroundings to smaller fauna and flora.

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY
Those with a passion for wildlife photography will receive various tips from their experienced ranger on taking the perfect picture while on their game drive or walking safari. The rangers of Leopard Hills are passionate about photography, many of them having entered renowned local and international competitions with great results.

WALKING SAFARIS
Exploring the African wilderness on foot offers a real sense of immersion, allowing you to absorb every detail of the environment. Led by an experienced, fully qualified Trails Guide, each walking safari is tailored to match your interests and abilities. Trails can be adjusted based on your preferences, whether it's a shorter walk of 1-2 hours after a morning game drive or a longer trail that replaces the drive entirely. As you navigate the landscape, your senses heighten, revealing nature's hidden wonders, like a striking leopard tortoise, a fascinating rhino beetle, or the vibrant plumage of a lilac-breasted roller. These walking safaris provide an unforgettable opportunity to connect with nature up close.

Up at 5:05 am, we meet everyone in the lodge at 6 am. We were out on the game drive by 6:15 am.

The excitement for the morning was a female Cheetah and her three cubs. While cheetahs are only slightly less rare than the Wild African Dogs, the guide said that they only see Cheetahs about every two months.


The International Union for Conservation of Nature lists cheetahs as Vulnerable. While their population is also in decline and they inhabit only a fraction of their historical range, there are more of them than wild dogs. Population estimates vary, but recent figures suggest a global population of around 6,500 to 7,000.

As the cheetahs moved off from their kill, the white backed vultures moved in.

When we finally got back to the lodge, we had a late breakfast on teh lodge deck overlooking a watering hole. I had an omelet.

After breakfast, I worked on organizing my pictures and updating my blog. I am enjoying the wifi! It is better here than at the M@kanyi Lodge.

Sharon and I took a short nap. Afterwards, I went to the fitness center. I did a 30 minute Peloton upper body strength workout and walked for 10 minutes on the treadmill.

We skipped lunch.

After getting cleaned up, Sharon and I spent the rest of the afternoon watching a variety of animals visit the watering hole behind our room. At first, Sharon wasn't happy with our room. As it turns out, it might be the best room at the lodge! Lots of different animals walked behind our deck over the course of the four days that we were here.

We met everyone back in the lodge at 3:15 pm for high tea and the evening game drive. One of the trackers from the lodge tracked a pair of mating leopards down in a dry sandy wash. All three trucks from the lodge spent an extended time with the leopards. While the female made a couple overtures towards mating, the guide said that they had only been together for a day and the male wasn't getting all of the right signals yet.


We took our evening break late. Watching lightning on the horizon, we made a dash for the lodge as the wind picked up. It looked like it was going to start raining hard, but it never did.

One note about the lodge. After dark, we can't walk outside your room without a security guard. There have been several leopard sightings between the rooms in recent months. Once we got back to the room after the evening game drive, we had someone escort us to our room. Then, we had to call to get someone to take us back to the lodge for dinner.

We had dinner with the guide (Johan) in the main lodge. Both Sharon and I had tomato soup and prawn pasta. The dinner conversation went off on a couple of tangents where I didn't participate.

We crashed really early. We were both in bed by 9 pm.

One footnote. At both lodges, our itinerary talks about taking bush walks. It turns out that you have to be under 60 years old in order to go on a bush walk!?! None of us qualify...

Saturday, September 13, 2025

2025 South Africa, Zimbabwe & Zambia - Day #13 - Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve

from our Rothschild Safaris Itinerary


SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE

The Sabi Sand Reserve is part of the Greater Kruger National Park. It is the oldest of all the park's private reserves and covers an area of 153,000 acres of savannah thornveld. The fenceless borders between the national park and private reserves allow the game to move freely through this enormous natural reserve.

Two rivers supply the game reserve with water. The Sand River flows through the reserve from northwest to southeast whilst the Sabie River flows on the southern boundary. These rivers ensure that the area enjoys one of the most bio-diverse wildlife populations of any area in Africa. Over two hundred different species live in abundance, whilst the ever changing bird life provides even the most experienced ornithologist with rare finds.

TIMBAVATI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE-SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE, AIR TRANSFER
Departure time 7:00AM: Enjoy a game viewing activity as you transfer to the Hoedspruit for your flight to Leopard Hills. Please note that your charter may include stops en-route. After settling in at camp, enjoy an afternoon activity. Your luggage will be transferred by road to Leopard Hills, so you only need to take a day bag on the plane.

TIMBAVATI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE-SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE
Federal Airlines 501 - Departs 09:00 - Arrives 15:00

LEOPARD HILLS

Leopard Hills, a five-star sanctuary in the western sector of the Sabi Sand Game Reserve and bordering Kruger National Park, offers a refined immersion in the heart of the African wilderness. Set against the untamed beauty of the reserve, this luxury lodge presents unparalleled opportunities to experience the bush.

Each of the eight glass-fronted, air-conditioned suites is a private retreat, designed with muted tones that blend effortlessly with the landscape. From your suite's plunge pool or shaded veranda with sun loungers, you'll enjoy panoramic views of the reserve's rich wildlife. Spacious bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers add to the luxury of your experience.

The main lodge, with its expansive deck overlooking a waterhole, offers inviting spaces to unwind, whether in the cozy lounge or quiet library stocked with books and journals. A large swimming pool and wellness spa are also available, ensuring complete relaxation in this exclusive setting.

Activities:
Morning and afternoon game drives and walking safaris. Note: activities are shared unless otherwise stated.
Walking is dependent on seasonal conditions.

The schedule for the day turned out to be very different than the one that we had in our itinerary.

Leaving the M@kanyi Lodge at 12:15 pm, we had a ground transfer to the Hoedspuit Airport. It took about an hour and twenty minutes. The ride for the first half was rougher than I remembered when we arrived. I also didn't remember the much about the town around the airport; I was pretty under the weather when we got here...

We were at a much different part of the airport than we landed on Wednesday. We waited about an hour for our charter flight on Federal Airlines. It was a small fifteen seat twin prop plane.

The flight to the Sabi Sands Airport took about 20 minutes. The pilot described it as a low level flight. It was pretty bumpy.

The Leopard Hills lodge picked us up at the airport. It was about a ten minute drive to the lodge. We are spending the next three nights here.

Drew had asked me before the trip what I was looking forwards to the most. I had said this lodge. Unfortuantely, some things are not quite as advertised.

After getting settled in the room, we went out on an evening game drive. The highlight of the evening was a female leopard sitting in a tree above her kill of an impala.


I am enjoying the differnces in topography here versus at the M@kanyi Lodge. There are rolling hills and some open plains. We stopped for the evening break along the Sand River with a group of elephants grazing in the distrance. A very nice setting.

We finished the day with dinner in the Boma. A boma is a fortified enclosure, stockade, or corral, often made of thorn bushes, branches, or stakes. They served a calamari stir fry with some oxen tail and lamb chops. I wasn't very happy with the wait staff service.

Sharon and I both crashed before 9 pm.

2025 South Africa, Zimbabwe & Zambia - Day #13 - Makanyi Private Game Lodge

Wild Dogs and Leopards


A Moving Day. We packed our luggage the previous night. Our luggage is going to be picked up at 7 am and trucked to our next lodge.

I am still struggling with a head cold.

We were up and moving at 5:05 am. I screwed up. For some reason, I got it in my head that we were going on the morning safari at 7 am rather than 6 am. Just before 6 am, Sharon realized that we needed to be out by 6 am. We got to the truck about 6:02 am.

It was a great morning. We came upon a pack of Wild African Dogs (4 adults and 10 puppies) feeding on a bushbuck. Interestingly, the adults let the pups eat first. Once the pups had their fill, the adults moved in and tore the remaining carass to pieces. The dogs have a lot energy.

One of the other trucks found leopard tracks. We ended up following a male leopard as he patrolled his territory. I continue to be amazed that the cats don't pay any attention to the trucks.

On the way back to the lodge, I got photos of two new animals: a black backed jackal and a Kudu.

We had scrambled egg corn tacos for breakfast.

Kevin and I both tried to update our blogs, but the wifi was bad. It has been pretty good over the first three days, but we weren't able to get anything done!

Friday, September 12, 2025

2025 South Africa, Zimbabwe & Zambia - Day #12 - Makanyi Private Game Lodge

Lions!


We were up again at 5:05 am and out on the morning safari before 6 am.

After wandering for about twenty minutes, our guide Carl got a call that lions had been spotted crossing a main road. We ended up spenting the morning following a pride of lions (a male and four females). One of the females had a broken front left ankle. Kevin called her Lefty.

While we were on our morning break, the lions took down a juvenile Cape Buffalo. We went back and watched them feed on it. After the group fed for awhile, the male started fighting with the females and dragged the carcass under a bush.

With the females sitting around watching the male, a Cape buffalo stampede started on the hillside. We followed the females as they went to check out the commotion.

I was surprised that the lions didn't pay any attention to the trucks! When we were following them in the morning or sitting and watching them feed they just acted like we weren't there.

We saw a black rhino on the way back to the lodge. They are rare and very aggressive.

Back at the room, I worked on my blog.

Both Sharon and I picked at a beet salad for lunch.

Given that I am still struggling with my cold and getting enough sleep, I took a nap for about 45 minutes.

On the evening safari, I got a better crocodile photo. We checked on the sleeping lions and then raced to watch some African Wild Dogs harass a Kudu. On the way back to lddge in the dark, the tracker and guide spent time looking for leopards. All that we saw was a scopes owl and a chameleon.

For dinner, Sharon had a prawn salad and quail (an odd quail sausage), while I had carrot soup and pork loin. The dinner was not very good.

We crashed early. I was asleep just after 9 am.

Thursday, September 11, 2025

2025 South Africa, Zimbabwe & Zambia - Day #11 - Makanyi Private Game Lodge

from our Rothschild Safaris Itinerary


TYPICAL DAY IN THE TIMBAVATI

Situated in the heart of the Greater Kruger region, your experience in the Timbavati Private Game Reserve immerses you in the wild beauty of the reserve. Throughout the year, this vibrant landscape teems with life, where the daily dramas of resident species like lions, hyenas, leopards, and jackals unfold alongside herds of elephants, zebras, gazelles, and giraffes. Timbavati Private Game Reserve is a haven for large herds of elephants and buffalo, along with a substantial lion population. Notably, it is home to the rare white lions, first spotted here in the mid-1970s.

Your safari includes early morning and late afternoon excursions to witness wildlife as they emerge. Spend leisurely afternoons enjoying sunset bush-drinks and dining under a sky filled with stars. You will also have the opportunity to connect with local communities, learning about their culture in meaningful ways. In the evening, savor gourmet meals and gather around the campfire to share stories with fellow travelers.

GAME DRIVES
Set out on twice-daily game drives-one at sunrise and another in the late afternoon-timed to coincide with the hours when wildlife is most active. This region is especially rich in animal life, with regular sightings of lions and leopards among the many highlights. While rhino and wild dogs are more elusive, each drive offers the chance to witness powerful moments and an impressive variety of species in their natural habitat.

BUSH WALKS
Venture into the bush alongside a highly skilled ranger, who will guide you in tracking animals, identifying fascinating plants, and spotting some of the region's smaller, often hidden wildlife. With a bit of luck, you may even find yourself quietly observing a rhino at close range. Walking safaris are available during the winter months only.

STARGAZING
Makanyi Lodge offers its guests the opportunity to learn a little more about the night sky with the use of an amazing telescope. The lack of light pollution in this wonderfully remote region allows one to see the beautiful constellations of the Southern Hemisphere and have an unspoilt view of the Milky Way, often with the odd passing satellite.
Up at 5:05 am, we were out on the morning safari at 6 am.

New animals that we saw that I was able to photograph included white rhinos, waterbucks, hippos, the nose of a crocodile, an African hare, wart hogs and steenboks. We also saw a grey duiker, a drawf mogoose and some vervet monkeys. Midway through the drive, we passed through the large herd of cape buffalo that we saw last night. I am hopeful that we will see some lions in the next two days! Apparently, in the area, lions are exclusively feeding on cape buffalo.


Back at the lodge, we had breakfast. I had an omelet.

After breakfast, I worked on my blog for the previous day. I appreciate having some down time to sort through photos and organize some thoughts. I am enjoying the Wifi. We weren't sure that it would be available. Additionally, there is pretty good cell coverage in different spots.

Still feeling under the weather, I took a half hour nap.

They served lunch at 1:30 pm. There is way too much food. I had part of a salmon salad.

After lunch, Donna, Kevin, Sharon and I sat by the pool for a while. We then relaxed in the room.

The evening safari took off at 4 pm. While we saw lots of animals, the only new photograph was a seven foot highly venomous black mamba. In the dark, we also saw a white tailed mongoose. I think that the guide and the tracker were trying to find the leopards. While we covered a lot of ground, we didn't see them. One of the other groups from the lodge caught a glimpse of one female leopards as they were coming bacxk to the lodge in the dark.

Back from the evening safari, the guests and the guides sat around a fire pit with a cocktail. We finished the day with a late barbecue buffet dinner that included lamb chops and ox tail.

Sharon and I crashed about 9:50 pm. With the early morning starts, I really to get to sleep earlier!

Wednesday, September 10, 2025

2025 South Africa, Zimbabwe & Zambia - Day #10 - Makanyi Private Game Lodge

from our Rothschild Safaris Itinerary


TIMBAVATI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Timbavati is one of the largest and best known of the Kruger Private Reserves, extending over an enormous 500 square kilometers. The Timbavati is one of South Africa's undiscovered wilderness jewels; home to Africa's big five, in an area renowned for its biodiversity, ranging from savannah woodlands to grasslands and riverine glades. The reserve was established in 1956 by landowners. A unique feature of the Timbavati is the low rate of commercialization, with game lodges that are dedicated to preserving the sense of true wilderness. The reserve is also known for its population of rare white lions.

TRANSFER
Departure time 7:00AM: Transfer by road to the Cape Town Airport where you will be met and assisted with check-in and boarding of your departing flight to Hoedspruit.

CAPE TOWN-HOEDSPRUIT
SA Airlink 4Z657 - Departs 10:30 - Arrives 13:00

TRANSFER
On arrival in Hoedspruit, you will be met and transferred by road to your next accommodation. Should time allow; enjoy an afternoon game viewing activity.

MAKANYI PRIVATE GAME LODGE

Located in the southern sector of the Timbavati Private Game Reserve, Makanyi Private Game Lodge offers an authentic connection to the African wilderness, with breathtaking views over a tranquil dam.

Your suite, decorated in earthy tones, blends luxury and comfort with the spirit of the bush. The lodge features seven luxury suites and a two-bedroom Marula Suite, each with a sitting area and fireplace, en-suite bathroom with a shower, separate bathtub, outdoor shower, and premium amenities.

The main lodge exudes safari chic, with inviting dining and lounge areas, a viewing deck, swimming pool, hot tub, fitness center, and spa. Attentive staff ensure your stay is as seamless and memorable as the landscape that surrounds you.

Activities:

Morning & afternoon game drives, bush walks, fishing. Optional activities for an additional cost: photographic safaris and art safaris Note: activities are shared unless otherwise stated. Walking and water activities are dependent on seasonal conditions and water levels.
Unfortunately, my cold is worse. Sharon and I both had a restless sleep. Up just after 5 am, we packed up the room and had a continental breakfast.

A car picked us up at 7 am and took us to the Capetown Airport. It was about a 50 minute drive.

Rothschild had someone meet us at the curb. He walked us to the luggage checkin, to security and then met us on the other side of security and took us to the gate.

We boarded a 10:30 am flight to Hoedspruit. It was about a two hour flight. We were on the ground just after 12:30 pm. It seemed like we taxied forever to get to the small terminal.

We were met by another driver arranged by Rothschild. After collecting our luggage, we headed to the Makanyi Private Game Lodge. It was about an hour and fifteen drive. Along the way, we saw a number of animals includuing giraffes, zebras and elephants.

We got checked in to our rooms and took a short tour of the facility. The rooms are very nice. I thought that the next lodge was supposed to be nicer, but it is going to be difficult to beat these acommodations.

The rhythm for the next week is going to be very similar. There will be a morning safari from 6 am to 9 am, breakfast at 9:30 am, lunch at 1 pm, an evening safari from 4 pm to 7 pm and then dinner at 7:30 pm.

We went out on the evening safari. Our guide is Carl and our tracker is Rondy. Over the course of the three hours, we saw wildebeests, a den of juvenile hyenas, giraffes, elephants, zebras, impalas, cape buffalo and a saddle billed stork. Driving back in the dark, we got glimpses of an African wild cat and waterbucks.

Back from the safari, we had dinner. I had soup and duck. Sharon also had the duck.

They don't want you wandering between the lodge and our room at night! After dinner, we had a night porter walk us back to the room.

Sharon and I crashed hard about 9:20 pm.