2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #9 - Derry, Northern Ireland

Day 6: Derry’s City Walls, An Grianan of Aileach

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: We’ll board a motorcoach for a field trip to Grianán of Aileach, a stone hillfort constructed in the 6th or 7th century CE. The fort was severely damaged during conflict in the early 12th century, and sat as a ruin for hundreds of years until being restored in 1870. During our expert-led exploration, we’ll trace the history of the site within the context of Viking occupation, Norman invasion and native rule.

We’ll reboard the motorcoach and return to Derry, then set out on an expert-led walking field trip around the city. Derry is the only remaining city in Ireland with virtually complete walls surrounding the old inner core. The walls were erected early in the 17th century as defenses against encroaching English and Scottish settlers. Today, they serve as a walkway to observe the combination of heritage and contemporary culture within the Renaissance Style street plan.

Lunch: At a local restaurant or pub.

Afternoon: Free time. This period of time has been set aside for your personal independent exploration to see and do what interests you most. Please refer to the list of Free Time Opportunities. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 18 miles, approximately 1 hour. Walking about 1.5 miles, periods of standing; wooden boardwalks, some uneven grassy areas; uneven stone steps to some areas at Grianán of Aileach. Extent of walking and other activities during free time according to personal choice.

Accommodations: Waterfoot Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Up and moving before 6:30 am, I did a 10 minute Peloton core workout. We had a buffet breakfast at 8 am in the hotel.

We were on the bus at 9 am. The first stop was the Grianan of Aileach. We had a local guide. It is a historic ringfort located on Greenan Mountain in County Donegal, Ireland, just west of Derry. The primary structure is a large circular stone cashel (ringfort) dating to the 8th or 9th century. It was built upon the site of an earlier Bronze Age or Iron Age hillfort. Historically, it served as the royal seat and stronghold of the Northern Uí Néill dynasty, who ruled the kingdom of Aileach.

Next, we stopped with the guide at St Aengus Church. Consecrated in 1967, the Roman Catholic church was designed by the celebrated Irish modernist architect Liam McCormick. He directly modeled its circular layout and low-profile stone aesthetic on the ancient ringfort above it.


We stopped at Inch Island for a comfort break and coffee.

A group of us walked part of the Inch Wildfowl Reserve Loop. We walked just over a mile before the bus picked us up.

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Heading back to Derry, we did a guided walking tour of the city walls. The Derry Walls encircle the historic core of Derry and stand as one of the finest examples of a completely walled city in Europe. Built between 1613 and 1619 by The Honourable The Irish Society, the defensive stone and earthen ramparts were constructed to protect English and Scottish settlers during the Plantation of Ulster.


Derry was the epicenter of the troubles. Hundreds of commercial properties were destroyed across Derry's historic walled city. Major targets included the Derry Courthouse, banks, post offices, and department stores.

We had lunch at the Bentley Bar. I had a hamburger, while Sharon had fish and chips.

After lunch, Sharon and I did the Bogside Murals walk. The Catholic Bogside was the tinderbox of the modern Troubles in Northern Ireland. Bloody Sunday sparked a sectarian inferno. The events are memorialized in about a dozen murals. At some point in the future, I am going to post all twelve of the murals in a blog post.


Afterwards, we caught a taxi back to the hotel. After getting cleaned up, we called a taxi to take Holly, Van, Sharon and I to dinner. The Waterfoot is a couple of miles from the old city.

We had dinner at the Artis Restaurant by Phelim O' Hagan (often referred to as Artis, from the Latin word for "craft"). It is a fine-dining establishment located in the Craft Village in central Derry. Founded by Chef Phelim O'Hagan—a former finalist on BBC’s Great British Menu—it is widely considered one of the top culinary destinations in the North West of Ireland and is featured in the Michelin Guide. The restaurant offers an elegant dining room set within the atmospheric, cobblestoned Craft Village off Shipquay Street.

We had the tasting menu. The food was very good. Sharon said that it was better than The Muddlers Club in Belfast. It was a four hour dinner!?!


We had a minor adventure getting home. The restaurant called us a cab. Once we got in, we realized that it only took cash. We had to stop at an ATM.

By the time we got back to the hotel and in bed, it was after 11:30 pm. Oy Vey...

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #8 - Derry, Northern Ireland

Day 5: Transfer to Derry, Giant’s Causeway
Friday, September 18

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: After checking out of the hotel, we’ll board the motorcoach and begin our transfer to Derry, stopping en route at the Giant’s Causeway. This natural amphitheatre — a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site — is made up of hexagonal-shaped basalt rocks. We will begin in the capable hands of a National Trust expert as we explore the site, then have some independent time to see what interests each of us most at this breathtaking natural phenomenon.

Lunch: At a local restaurant or pub.

Afternoon: Back aboard the motorcoach, we’ll complete our transfer to Derry and check in to the hotel with some time to relax before dinner.

2026 Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 105 miles, approximately 3.5 hours. Walking about 2.5 miles, periods of standing; paved streets and paths, some uneven grassy areas. It is possible to walk on the uneven hexagonal “steps” of the basalt formation at Giant’s Causeway. There are routes that involve minimal changes of level; shuttles available from visitor center to Causeway to reduce walking distance.

Accommodations: Waterfoot Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Moving Day...

Up at 6 am, we packed up the room and had the suitcases in the hall before 7:30 am. I did a ten minute bodyweight Peleton workout.

After breakfast in the hotel, we boarded the bus at 8:30 am. The plan for the day is the Giant's Causeway.

We made a photo stop at Dunluce Castle. The castle is a dramatically situated medieval stronghold perched on a steep basalt outcrop along the Antrim coastline of Northern Ireland. Accessible only by a narrow stone bridge spanning a deep chasm, it remains one of the most iconic and photogenic historical ruins in the region.


We got to the Giant's Causeway about 10:30 am. It is Northern Ireland's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site is located near the town of Bushmills. It is famous for its striking geological formations consisting of around 40,000 interlocking basalt columns that extend from the cliffside into the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the columns are hexagonal, though some have four, five, seven, or eight sides. The columns were formed roughly 50 to 60 million years ago during intense volcanic activity.

We did a guided tour from the visitors center down to the causeway. It rained off and on while we were there. It would have been nice if it had been a nice day and we had more time to hike the area. I liked the experience more than Sharon did; she was a little underwhelmed. We were back on the bus about 12:30 pm.


According to Celtic myth, the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool) built a physical bridge or causeway across the sea to cross over to Scotland and face his rival giant, Benandonner. On Staffa, the dramatic sea cave formed by these same basalt columns became known as Fingal’s Cave (derived from Fionnghall, the Scottish Gaelic variation of Finn MacCool). We visited Staffa in 2023!

We had lunch at the nearby Bushfoot Golf Course. It was a a carvery meal. A chef standing at a carving station slices fresh, slow-roasted joint meats—such as roast beef, turkey, gammon/ham, or pork—directly onto your plate. I bought a Bushfoot ball marker in the pro shop.

From there, we headed to Derry. We are spending three nights at the Waterfoot Hotel. Thankfully, it turned out to be nicer than the Leonardo Hotel in Belfast; the room was cleaner and bigger.

Trying to cut into my Oura sleep deficit, I took a short nap. Afterwards, Sharon and I went out for walk. We haven't gotten enough steps over the last three days. We walked 1.8 miles down to the Foyle River and back in just under 50 minutes.

We finished the day with dinner at the hotel. I had chicken, while had salmon.

After two fairly late nights, we crashed early. We were in bed with the lights out before 9:30 pm.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #7 - Belfast, Nortern Island

Day 4: Belfast Murals, Navan Fort, Titanic Whiskey distillery
Thursday, September 17

Breakfast: Hotel buffet.

Morning: We’ll be joined by a local expert who will give us a presentation on the colorful and evocative political murals of Belfast. The political mural tradition in the north of Ireland is more than a century old, and the lecture will trace the history of this distinctive form of political expression from the earliest examples — painted before the War of Independence by loyalists who supported British rule — to its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s, and more recent murals painted since the Good Friday Agreement of 1998.

We’ll then board a motorcoach and ride to Navan Fort, one of Ireland’s most important prehistoric ceremonial sites and the legendary capital of Ulster in Irish mythology. Closely associated with the tales of the Ulster Cycle and the legendary King Conchobar mac Nessa, Navan Fort offers a fascinating insight into Ireland’s ancient Celtic past.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: Following our field trip in Armagh, we will return to Belfast by motorcoach stopping en route at Titanic Whiskey distillery. Belfast’s first working whiskey distillery, having first become operational in the early 1900’s. During our exploration, we’ll follow the production process from grain to glass, and taste some of what the distillery produces.

Dinner: This meal has been excluded from the program cost and is on your own to enjoy what you like. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions and give directions.

Evening: At leisure. Prepare for check-out and transfer in the morning.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 85 miles, approximately 3 hours. Walking about 1.5 miles, periods of standing; paved streets, tarmac and gravel paths. Extent of walking and other activities during free time according to personal choice.

Accommodations: Leonardo Hotel Belfast
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch

I set the alarm for 6:20 am. Like the Eastern European trip, I am not sleeping well. My sleep debt in Oura has grown from zero to an hour and a half in the last couple of days.

I started the day with a quick five minute Peloton core workout.

After breakfast at the hotel, we had an excellent presentation on Irish history, politics and The Troubles through the lens of Belfast Murals. The lecturer was Bill Rolston. [Note to self], I need to look for one of his books online.

After the lecture, we boarded the bus and headed to Armagh. Armagh is the ecclesiastical capital of Ireland. Saint Patrick founded his main church here in 445 AD, establishing Armagh as the historic center of Christianity on the island.


We visited Navan Fort, It served as the ancient ceremonial site and stronghold of the Kings of Ulster and features prominently in Irish mythology, including the tales of Cú Chulainn and the Red Branch Knights. This is a pre-Christianity site dating back to 100 BC.

Despite being called a "fort," excavations show the site was a major sacred sanctuary and ceremonial complex rather than a defensive military stronghold. The site consists of a massive circular bank and ditch enclosing a large grassy mound at the top of a drumlin hill.

The stop included an odd living history presentation.

We had lunch at the Mullbery Bistro. I had chicken curry, while Sharon had fish and chips.

Afterwards, we headed back to Belfast. More than half the group decided to skip the distillary and go to the Titantic Belfast Museum. Situated at the head of the historic slipways where the RMS Titanic was designed, built, and launched, the building stands as a landmark tribute to the city's maritime history. The exhibition leads visitors through the story of boomtown Belfast in the early 20th century, the shipyard construction process of the Titantic, launch day, the maiden voyage, the sinking, and the aftermath.

Afterwards, Holly, Van, Sharon and I got a cab back to the hotel. After getting cleaned up, the four of us took an Uber to The Muddlers Club Restaurant. It is a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant tucked away in Warehouse Lane, an unassuming alley in Belfast's Cathedral Quarter. Named after a 200-year-old secret society of United Irishmen that used to meet on the site, it offers a sophisticated, modern dining experience with an unpretentious, welcoming atmosphere.

Head chef Gareth McCaughey focuses on high-end local produce prepared with precision, serving guests in a cool, post-industrial space featuring exposed brick, dark accents, and a wide-open kitchen. We did the seven fixed menu shown below.

Taking a cab back to the hotel, it was after 10:30 pm by the time we got to bed. Tomorrow is moving...

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #6 - Belfast, Northern Ireland

Day 3: Irish History Lecture, Belfast City Hall
Wednesday, September 16

Breakfast: In the hotel dining room, the full Irish breakfast buffet offers a rotating variety of choices such as eggs, bacon, sausages, tomatoes, potatoes, cereals, fruit, toast, pastries and jams, plus milk, juices, coffee, tea, water.

Morning: At the hotel, an expert from one of Belfast’s renowned universities will join us and introduce the complex history of the island of Ireland.

Next, we’ll walk to Belfast City Hall for a docent-led field trip. We’ll learn more of Belfast’s fascinating history as we explore this grand 1906 Baroque Revival building, and gain insights into its links with the ill-fated ocean liner “Titanic.” We’ll then board a motorcoach and ride to our lunch venue.

Lunch: At a local restaurant.

Afternoon: We’ll board the motorcoach with a local expert for a visual overview of some of Belfast’s most significant sights, including Queens University, Crown Bar, the Opera House, Albert Clock, the Titanic Quarter and Film Studios, and the heart of Northern Ireland’s government at Stormont. As we ride, our expert will provide informative commentary detailing Belfast’s immense industrial heritage and complex political history. We’ll finish our field trip at the hotel.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure.

Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 18 miles, approximately 1.5 hours throughout the day. Walking about 1.5 miles, periods of standing; paved streets, some cobbled areas.

Accommodations: Leonardo Hotel Belfast
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

We were up and moving just before the alarm went off at 6:30 am. I am not sleeping that well. I did a 10 minute Peloton bodyweight workout. I am alternating between a core and a bodyweight workout every day.

We had breakfast in the hotel at 8 am. We sat with Tom from the Road Scholar group.

After breakfast, we had a very good morning lecture from Peter McLaughlin for a brief Introduction to Irish History. He provided an overview of Irish history until 1600 until 1921. There is a lot that I didn't underrstand about Irish history, but I was particularly surprised by the British establishment of plantations and the decline in Catholic land ownership through the 17th to the 19th century. Several people said that this model was implemented across the British Empire. Northern Ireland was created in 1921.

After the lecture, the group walked to the Belfast City Hill. We had a very nice hour guided tour of the building. It is a beautiful building.

We had lunch at Molly's Yard. Sharon had a Molly's Whiskey burger [bacon, smoked cheddar, onion jam, salad and hand cut Sriracha chips], while I had Molly's seafood chowder [smoked haddock, salmon and cod with Molly's stout wheaten bread].

After lunch, we did a panoramic tour of Belfast with Ken McElroy. Although it was driving tour, it provided a good overview of the city. The guide did a nice job with the commentary. I think that it was better than most of the Viking panoramic tours.

We made two stops. The first stop was the Peace Wall along Cupar Road.

I didn't realize that the British built walls between the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods during the troubles in the 1960s. They even had manned checkpoints between the neighborhoods. We drove by one that they named checkpoint Charlie like in Berlin.


We drove through the Titanic District and the shipyard. We are going to be back in this area tomorrow to visit the Titanic Museum.

The second stop was the Nortern Ireland Parliment building.

When we got back to the hotel, Sharon and I explored the area. We had dinner in the hotel with Holly and Van.

After dinner, we joined Mike, Chris and Diane from the tour group for a nightcap at Robinsons Bar down the street.

We got to bed just before 10:30 pm.

I felt that it was a very worthwhile first day of the tour.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #5 - Belfast, Northern Ireland

Day 2: Arrive Dublin, Transfer Belfast, Orientation, Welcome Dinner
Tuesday, September 15

Arrive To: Aerfort Bhaile Átha Cliath — Dublin Airport (DUB), about 98 miles (158 km) from the program hotel. See your program’s Transportation Information regarding transfers.

Lunch: This meal has been excluded from the program cost and is on your own to enjoy what you like. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions and give directions.

Afternoon: If you arrive before rooms are available, you may leave your luggage with the concierge and go for a walk or relax in public rooms of the hotel. After checking in and getting your room, take some time to freshen up and relax before our Orientation session.

Orientation: 5:30 p.m. The Group Leader will greet everyone and lead introductions. We will review the up-to-date program schedule, discuss roles and responsibilities, logistics, safety guidelines, emergency procedures, and answer questions. At various points in the program, local expert will provide educational commentary and at some sites, it will be our knowledgeable Group Leader.

Periods in the schedule designated as “Free time” and “At leisure” offer opportunities to do what you like and make your experience even more meaningful and memorable according to your personal preferences. The Group Leader will be happy to offer suggestions.

Program activities, schedules, personnel, and indicated distances or times may change due to local circumstances/conditions. In the event of changes, we will alert you as quickly as possible. Thank you for your understanding.

Dinner: At the hotel.

Evening: At leisure. Continue getting to know your fellow Road Scholars, settle in, and get a good night’s rest for the day ahead.

Note: Hotel check-in from 3:00 p.m.

Accommodations: Leonardo Hotel Belfast
Meals Included: Dinner

A restless night's sleep. I set the alarm for 7 am, but we were up and moving by 6:15 am.

Today is moving day. We are joining the Road Scholar tour.

After packing up the room, we had breakfast at the hotel. I had pancakes, while Sharon had eggs benedict. She wasn't happy with the breakfast...

About 9:45 am, we caught a taxi back to the Dublin Airport. The Irish taxi driver was very talkative. We were back at the airport before 10:30 am. We met Eileen, the program director for the tour, in the arrivals hall.

Just after 11 am, she led the group to the bus. The tour includes 19 people.

With one 30 minute stop, it took two and a half hours to get to Belfast. We are spending three nights at the Leonardo Hotel.


Unfortunately, our room wasn't ready. We sat in the lobby for an hour and forty-five minutes until we finally got our key. It reminded me of the experience at we had in Athens.

Unfortuantely, Sharon was not happy with the room... We spent the last three nights in the 5 Star Westbury. The Leonardo is a 4 Star hotel. It is definitely a big step down.

Given that we hadn't gotten any lunch, we walked down the street to the Crown Liquor Saloon. We split Baked Camembert [Topped with pumpkin seeds, honey and thyme With Ballymaloe relish and toasted rustic ciabatta] and Hand-Cut Nachos [Hand-cut tortilla chips, cheese sauce, guacamole, salsa, sour cream and jalapeños Added Pulled Pork].

The group got together with Eileen at 5:30 pm to go over the iternary for the trip and introduce ourselves. Just as the orientation was ending, Holly and Van finally showed up. Their flight from Edinburgh was delayed several hours.

The four of us finished the night having dinner with the group at the hotel. Holly and Van had an interesting experience on their Exodus trip to Scotland. I will post a map of their trip when we are back in October.

Sharon and I crashed just after 9:30 am.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #4 - Dublin, Ireland

I set an alarm for 6:15 am. We had breakfast in the hotel just after 7 am. Sharon and I both had omelettes.

I had asked the hotel to call us a taxi for 8:45 am, but they had a problem getting one to show up. I ended up getting an Uber.

We had 9:45 am tickets for a tour of Kilmainham Gaol. This is one of Dublin's most popular and powerful historical experiences. Opened in 1796, this former prison played a pivotal role in Irish history. It housed high-profile political prisoners and leaders of Irish nationalist uprisings. Most notably, the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising were executed in the prison yard.

The tickets are really hard to get; when they come available 28 days ahead of time, they sell out in a couple of minutes! I enjoyed the tour more than Sharon...

After the tour, we took a taxi to the National Gallery of Ireland. When we travel, we are always searching for paintings by Caravaggio. The gallery includes Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ.


There were a number of other significant works by Johannes Vermeer, Rembrandt, Diego Velázquez, Titian, and Thomas Gainsborough. We both enjoyed and were impressed by the collection more than we expected.

Walking back towards the hotel, we had a late lunch at Bewley's Grafton Street. Sharon had a Super Salad, while I had an open faced crab sandwich.

The afternoon temperature reached 75.

After a short afternoon nap in the room, we got cleaned up for dinner.

We met a friend of Sharon's brothers and his partner for a pint at the Kehoes. Kehoes Pub on South Anne Street is one of Dublin's most famous, historic, and authentic traditional Victorian pubs. Located just off Grafton Street, it is celebrated for preserving its 19th-century charm and serving what many locals consider one of the best pints of Guinness in the city. We had a nice two hour visit with them.

It rained of us as we walked a short distance to Peploe's St Stephens Green for dinner. This restaurant is a classic wine bistro and restaurant set in a former bank vault on St. Stephen's Green in central Dublin. Named after the famed Scottish Colourist artist Samuel Peploe, it is known for its warm atmosphere, art-covered walls, and refined European dining. The restaurant features deep-red leather banquettes, reclaimed oak floors, and large murals, giving the basement space a clubby, inviting feel that blends European bistro culture with classic Dublin hospitality.

We split Warm Gougeres [30 Month Aged Comte, Iberico Jamon] and Smoked Aubergine [Pomegranate, Tahini, Sumac, Yogurt & Fried Lentils]. For entrees, Sharon had Rick Higgins Prime Irish Beef Fillet [Cooked in Beef Tallow, Potato Rosti, Pickled Red Peppers, Green Sauce], while I had a vension special.

It wasn't raining as we wandered back to the hotel. We crashed just before 10 pm.

Tomorrow, we join up with the Road Scholar tour and head to Belfast. We will be back in Dublin for a few days at the end of the month.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #3 - Dublin, Ireland

I slept solidly. We had breakfast at The Ivy Dawson Street. Sharon had avocado toast, while I had scrambled eggs and salmon.

The plan for the morning was Historical Walking Tours of Dublin. It was established in 1986 by history postgraduates from Trinity College Dublin and the National University of Ireland. Designed as a comprehensive, two-hour crash course in Irish history, it combines academic insight with storytelling and humor. Led by a professional historian, the tour unpacks major themes in Irish history—including the Anglo-Norman conquest, the impact of the American and French Revolutions, the Great Famine, the 1916 Easter Rising, the War of Independence, Partition, and the roots of modern Ireland.

Starting at the Grattan statue, the tour talked about the Irish Parliament Building and Trinity College. From there, we headed to the Daniel O'Connell Monument, the General Post Office, Temple Bar, Dublin Castle, City Hall, the site of the original Viking settlement and black pool (Dubh Linn) along the River Liffey and Christ Church Cathedral.

The tour lasted just over two and a half hours. Our guide--Jody--was very good.

Heading back to the hotel, we had a quick lunch at Salamanca Tapas Restaurant. We shared the Salamanca Charcuterie Selection and a Selection Of Bread & Dips.

After a quick stop at hotel, we headed to Trinity College. We did the Trinity Trails Campus Tour and Book of Kells Experience. The guide for the walking tour--Lily--was very good. After the walkihg tour, we visited the Book of Kells, the long room at the Old Library and the Book of Kells Digital Experience.

The Book of Kells is arguably Ireland's greatest cultural and artistic treasure. It is a lavishly decorated, masterwork illuminated manuscript containing the four Gospels of the New Testament in Latin. Produced around 800 AD by Celtic monks belonging to the monastic community of St. Columba (St. Colmcille), it is believed to have been started on the remote island of Iona off the west coast of Scotland. We visited Iona on our trip to Scotland in 2023!


For dinner, we walked to SOLE Seafood & Grill. It is a upscale, award-winning restaurant located on Drury Street in central Dublin, just a short walk from Grafton Street. It is widely regarded as one of the premier seafood dining spots in the city.

Unfortunately, the service was bad and the food was only so so. Sharon and I split a scallop starter and a burrata appetizer. For entrees, I had sea bass, while Sharon had a john dorry catch of the day special. We would give the service a "C-" at best and the food a "B-."

Walking back to the hotel, We crashed just after 10 pm.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #2 - Dublin, Ireland

I tried to sleep on the flight, but couldn't. I was unable to get comfortable; my back was very stiff. I ended up watching Star Wars-A New Hope and reading my book about Benjamin Rush.

As we were landing, the pilot said that both of the Air Force One planes landed two hours ahead of us. Trump is in Ireland to meet with the Prime Minister and attend the Irish Open at his Trump International Golf Links resort in Doonbeg.

Although the flight left late, we had a tailwind. We were on the ground on schedule at 11:45 am.

We had a mile walk to passport control. We have walked a long waay in London before, but this was crazy.

We breezed through passport control and got our luggage. We got a taxi to the hotel just before 1 pm.

It took about 30 minutes to get to the hotel. We are spending three nights on our own at The Westbury. The room was ready! We relaxed in the room, took showers and changed.

The Westbury is located in the Grafton Street Quarter. It sits right off Grafton Street, placing it in the heart of Dublin's primary shopping, dining, and cultural district, just a short walk from Trinity College, St. Stephen's Green, and the Temple Bar area.

Eventually, we walked out to explore the area. We were shocked at the number of people. All the restaurants and bars were literally overflowing with people. The temperature was perfect, about 70 degrees. Although it was cloudy, there was no rain. We wandered back to hotel and had a snack of buffalo milk burrata at The Sidecar.

Sharon and I walked to an early dinner at the Library Street Restaurant. it is a acclaimed contemporary wine bar and restaurant located on Setanta Place in central Dublin, just around the corner from Trinity College. Helmed by Head Chef Kevin Burke, it has quickly gained recognition as one of the city's most vibrant dining spots, earning a recommendation in the Michelin Guide. The concept revolves around refined, seasonal Irish produce delivered through a relaxed sharing-plate model, blending classical technique with modern culinary influences.

We shared a large number of small plates, including:

• Choux, horseradish + Cantabrian anchovy;
• Alanna's oyster, Blaufränkisch + cherry;
• Chargrilled merguez, courgette + mint:
• Hamachi, plum, tomato + calamansi consommé;
• McNally's leaves, pear, walnut, mount leinster + sheep's yoghurt;
• Rabbit agnolotti, morel consommé + parmesan;
• Chargrilled pork chop, kale + morel velouté;
• Fondant potatoes, and
• Chargrilled January King cabbage, kimchi + dukkah.

The food, particularly the pork chop, was very good. Sharon made a negative comment about the McNally's leaves and they give up the cabbage complimentary.

Wandering back to the hotel, we crashed hard just after 8:30 pm.

2026 Ireland’s Coasts from North to South - Day #1 - San Francisco

Sharon and I are off again exploring the world. Over the next three weeks, we will be exploring both Ireland and Northern Ireland. Although we were originally targeting France for this fall, we pivoted to Ireland when Holly and Van signed up for an Ireland trip. After a couple of days on our own in Dublin, we are joining the Road Scholar Ireland’s Coasts from North to South tour.

Thirty-five years ago, Tomasin, Bachman and I toured Ireland, Wales and England with the Tennessee Long Rifles Rugby Football Club during the 1991 Rugby World Cup. We played rugby, watched rugby and drank beer, but didn't do much sightseeing. I have always wanted to get back to Dublin. Over the last month, I have finished writing about the 1991 trip in my novella.

We rolled from Carmichael just before 11:30 am. With a driver change at the Hunter Hill Rest Stop, we pulled up to Terminal 1 at the San Francisco International Airport at 1:45 pm. I dropped Sharon and her luggage at the curb.

Like we did when we went to Eastern Europe, I dropped the car at the airport long term parking. Compared to then, the outside parking was fairly empty. I will write in the last post for this trip about why we have started driving ourselves rather than using a shuttle... Dragging my luggage, I took the Airtrain back to Terminal 1.

I am surprised that our Aer Lingus flight nonstop to Dublin is leaving from a domestic terminal. Even more surprising when we come back, we land at the domestic terminal. Apparently, we will clear U.S. immigration, customs, and TSA-equivalent security directly on Irish soil through a specialized U.S. CBP facility on the way home.

We breezed through the Aer Lingus check-in and then security with CLEAR and TSA-Pre. We had a late lunch at the Bourbon Pub; it is a casual dining concept by celebrity chef Michael Mina. Sharon had a caesar gem salad with salmon, while I had chili.

Scheduled to leave at 5:35 pm, our flight boarded late and pulled away from the gate at 6:10 pm. In spite of the late start, we are scheduled to arrive on time in Dublin.

For the first time in a while, we are flying economy. Aer Lingus doesn't offer premium economy and the business class seats were almost ten times the cost of economy. Almost the cost of another trip! Once we got settled in the seats, Sharon looked at me and said "never again." The seats are very tight with little room to move around. Luckily, it is a 2-4-2 configuration. We have 37H and 37K on the right side of the plane; I get an aisle and Sharon gets a window.

Thankfully, this is also the first time in a long time that the trip is only one leg. We have had several three legged trips in the last couple of years, including the trip to Eastern Europe in the spring [San Francisco to Dallas to Madrid to Prague].

On a positive note, the wifi for the first couple of hours was very good. I wrote this as we crossed into Canada.

Although I have a hard time sleeping on planes, I am going to try and sleep tonight. Usually, I read my book or watch a movie.

Phone Call with Wallen

During the halftime of the 49ers versus Rams NFL game this evening, I called and talked to Wallen for a little bit. He had called this morning to check in on me.

We spent some time talking about Ireland. They toured Ireland in 2019. Wallen recommended some pubs for music in Belfast and Galway.

The Prestige

On Father's Day, Jack, Sharon and I watched The Prestige. Jack selected the movie; it is a Christopher Nolan film.

The Prestige is a 2006 science fiction psychological thriller film directed by Christopher Nolan. He co-wrote the screenplay with his brother Jonathan Nolan. It is based on the 1995 novel by Christopher Priest.

Set in Victorian London, the film stars Hugh Jackman and Christian Bale as stage magicians who compete to create a superior teleportation illusion. The supporting cast includes Michael Caine, Scarlett Johansson, Rebecca Hall, Andy Serkis, and David Bowie as inventor Nikola Tesla.

The film was nominated for several Academy Awards, including: Best Cinematography and Best Art Direction.

This is a very odd film. I don't particularly recommend it. It has started me down a rabbit hole to see more Christopher Nolan movies. I am going to download either Inception or Batman Begins for our upcoming trip.

Christopher Nolan Feature Films

• Following — September 12, 1998
• Memento — September 5, 2000
• Insomnia — May 24, 2002
• Batman Begins — June 15, 2005
• The Prestige — October 20, 2006
• The Dark Knight — July 18, 2008
• Inception — July 16, 2010
• The Dark Knight Rises — July 20, 2012
• Interstellar — November 7, 2014
• Dunkirk — July 21, 2017
• Tenet — September 3, 2020
• Oppenheimer — July 21, 2023
• The Odyssey — July 17, 2026

A Trade of Blood

My book for September is A Trade of Blood by Robert Jackson Bennett. This is the third book in author's Shadow of the Leviathan series. I read The Tainted Cup and A Drop of Corruption in August.

Set in the agricultural hub of Sapirdad, the story follows eccentric detective Ana Dolabra and her assistant Dinios Kol as they attempt to clear an heir accused of murdering his secret lover. Uncovering the murder as part of a larger conspiracy, the duo races to prevent a bitter feud between two powerful farming families from exploding into a civil war that could starve the Empire. Their investigation leads them through ranches and slaughterhouses as they confront a deadly, mind-altering biological technology weaponized by a hidden adversary.

Although these stories are more fantasy than science fiction, I have enjoyed all three of the books. They are well written and nicely paced. Bennett has done an exceptional job of world building. I am looking forward to the next book in the series.

dinner at the Gainsleys

Sharon and I had dinner at the Gainsleys. The Larkins gave us a ride.

The Gainsleys organized the dinner as a get acquainted dinner. The Gainsleys, Larkins and Ulibarris are all taking a Azamara cruise with Shawna in Late September. Sharon, the Larkins, and I had only met the Ulibarris briefly at one of the Gainsleys' Christmas parties.

Sharon was experiencing a little FOMO during dinner. We didn't consider the cruise because we have been to Croatia and Montengro. I have too many other places that I want to explore to go back there at this time.

Donna put together a nice Greek and Croatian themed dinner.

Notre Dame versus Wisconsin

Late Sunday afternoon, Sharon and I went to her nephew Eric's house to watch the Notre Dame versus Wisconsin game. The group included: Tom; Eric; Kevin, Leah, Lydia and Amelia; Tim; Jim; and Sharon and I. Sharon's family are passionate Irish fans.

Tom and Eric served brats for dinner.

After a lackluster first half, the Irish pulled away in the second half to win the game by the score of 41 to 13.

Pickleball

Sunday morning, Jim, Sharon and I played pickleball at Greg and Michelle's.

Jack back to the City

Up early, I took Jack to the Amtrak station in downtown Sacramento. He caught a 7:20 am train back to the city.

dinner at Betty

Sharon's brother Tom, her nephew Eric, Jack, Sharon and I had dinner at Betty. It is an all-day wine bar, bistro, and bottle shop located in Sacramento's Southside Park neighborhood. It is part of the "Localis Familia" (sister spot to Sacramento’s Michelin-starred Localis). Sharon and I had dinner with Holly and Van at Localis in October of 2021.

For starters, the five of us split a HALF-DOZEN OYSTERS [fresh oysters on the shell, betty mignonette], DEVILED EGGIES [smoked black cod, pickled mustard seeds, dill], WARM HOUSE FOCACCIA with cultured miso butter and PICKLED VEGGIES [kolrhabi, armenian cucumber, daikon].

Jack, Sharon and I split a BETTY SALAD [gem lettuce, preserved lemon vin, hazelnut praline, crispy seeds, pickled red onion]. For entrees, Jack and I both had NONNA'S PASTA [buccatini, all'amatriciana, prosciutto, pecorino], while Sharon had EMIGH RANCH LAMB TERRINE [turmeric yogurt, chermoula, ras el hanout pepitas. served medium rare].

We shared TIRAMISU PANNA COTTA [coffee panna cotta, mascarpone whip, chocolate cookie crumbles] and BURNT CREAM AFFOGATO [house burnt cream gelato, espresso] for dessert.

The group did some planning of the details and logistics for a Survivor 51 draft.

Jack is back!

Jack caught a train from Emeryville to Sacramento. The train lost power at the Berkeley station!?! He had to wait for the next train to come along. Sharon picked him up at the Amtrak station in downtown Sacramento about 3:00 pm.

To celebrate Jack's birthday, Sharon made cornflake chicken, scalloped potatoes and broccoli for dinner. She made a german chocolate cake for dessert.

We finished the night playing Exploding Kittens. Sharon gave Jack the game for this birthday.

At Ancil Hoffman Golf Course

Debbie, Jim, Sharon and I played Ancil Hoffman. Teeing off at 3:00 pm, Jim and I walked, while Debbie and Sharon rode. It was an unseasonally cool and cloudy afternoon.

I was happy with how I played and enjoyed the afternoon. I have really been trying to channel "Golf is Not a Game of Perfect." In particular, focusing on the current shot and letting go of everything else.

I carded a liberally scored 52. I had long par putt opportunties on the 5th, 6th and 8th holes. I had a 200 yard drive on the 4th hole. I ended the day with a par on 9th. Hitting my seven wood on to the green, I had a 36 foot birdie putt opportunity, but two putted.