Day 17: Glendalough
Breakfast: Hotel buffet.
Morning: At the hotel, a local expert will join us for a presentation focusing on the Christian and monastic culture of Ireland. We’ll then board the motorcoach and ride to the spiritual center of Glendalough to learn about the history of this monastic site, known to locals as the “Monastic City.” Established in the 6th century, Glendalough is situated in a glacial valley between two lakes in County Wicklow. As a local expert leads us through the remains of the many buildings here — including the conical-roofed Round Tower that still stands almost 100 feet in height — we’ll consider the important role this important institution played in the emergence of early medieval Irish Christianity.
Lunch: At a local restaurant.
Afternoon: Returning to the hotel by motorcoach, we’ll have some time to explore independently, freshen up, and relax.
Dinner: At a local Restaurant. Share favorite experiences with new Road Scholar friends during our farewell dinner, accompanied by a performance of traditional Irish music.
Evening: Prepare for check-out and departures in the morning.
Note: Getting on/off a motorcoach; driving about 85 miles, approximately 3 hours. Walking about 2.5 miles, periods of standing; varied terrain including gravel paths, uneven grassy areas, uneven stone floors in historic buildings; some paths at Glendalough may be muddy in wet weather. Extent of walking and other activities during free time according to personal choice.
Accommodations: Ashling Hotel
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Sharon and I were up and moving at 6:30 am. This is the last day of the tour!?!
Oura is still showing minor signs of strain. I feel like I am continuing to improve. It is a little surprising to me because I usually have a hard time shaking a head and chest cold once it starts. I felt good enough to start the day with a five minute Peloton core workout for the first time in five days...
We had breakfast at the hotel buffet at 8:00 am. We joined the group for a lecture at 9:00 am. John Herbage gave a presentation on Monastic culture in Ireland. He spent quite a bit of time dismissing the accomplishments of St. Patrick; he felt that other people had a larger impact on the early growth of Christianity in Ireland.
The lecturer also talked a lot about Skellig Michael (Sceilg Mhichíl). This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on a sheer, rocky island roughly 12 miles off the coast of County Kerry in southwestern Ireland. The program diretor--Eileen--and I had a long conversation about this site on the previous day.
I am fascinated by the recurruing theme of Vikings raiding the monasteries. Due to fact that the monasteries had gold, silver and other valuables, they were favorite targets of the Vikings.
The group was on the bus at 10:00 am heading to Glendalough. The site is renowned for its 6th-century monastic settlement founded by Saint Kevin, set between two glacial lakes framed by steep oak woodlands and mountain slopes. Sharon's brother Tom talked up the site before we went on the trip; he and Eric visited Ireland on the way to hike the Camino.
Riding on the bus, I told Sharon that I felt like I was inside a Mariocart game. The bus driver was driving aggressively on the mountain roads. I kept expecting one of the Mariocart drivers to slam into the side or race ahead of us.
Once we got to the site, we did a very nice guided tour. We entered the site through the Gateway. The double-arched stone gatehouse formed the original entrance to the monastic enclosure. It is the only surviving early monastic gateway in Ireland.
We stopped for a long time at the Round Tower. The Round Tower at Glendalough is widely considered one of the best-preserved and most complete examples in Ireland.
We spent some time exploring the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul. It is the largest church on the grounds. It features a large nave, chancel, and a prominent granite doorway.
We walked past the he Priest’s House. It is a small reconstructed Romanesque building in the center of the graveyard, likely built as a tomb shrine or shrine for relics.
We got a chance to go into the St. Kevin’s Church ("St. Kevin’s Kitchen"). It is a famous, remarkably well-preserved stone-roofed 12th-century church.
After the tour, a group of us walked up to the Lower Lake. The valley contains two freshwater lakes connected by walking paths. The Upper Lake is particularly dramatic, bordered by steep cliffs, Unfortunately, we didn't have time to go that far. Like our visit to the Giant's Causeway and the Cliff of Mohr, we could have spent the whole day hiking and explore the area.
Walking back towards the visitor center, I saw St. Kevin's Well on the map. Tom had mentioned the well to Sharon. St. Kevin’s Well (also historically referred to as St. Kevin's Keeve) is an ancient holy well located at Glendalough. Set slightly apart from the main Monastic City tourist trail, it remains a quiet place of spiritual focus and historical tradition. Nearby trees surrounding the well act as "rag trees" (or hawthorn/whitethorn bushes). Pilgrims tie small pieces of cloth, ribbons, or personal tokens to the branches as prayers for healing.
Looking for a piece of cloth, Sharon and I ended up tearing off part of my shirt. We tied it to the Hawthorn tree.
The group had lunch at the
Bryne and Woods Gastro Bar in the nearby village of Roundwood. It claims to be in the heart of Ireland's highest village. The lunch was soup and sandwiches.
Back in Dublin, the bus dropped a number of people near the National Gallery. Initially, I got turned around. Sharon and I eventually did a short visit to the National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology. Sharon was interested in seeing the bog people. Bog people, or bog bodies, are naturally mummified human corpses found preserved in peat wetlands.
Catching a taxi back to the hotel, we got cleaned up for dinner. We had a drink in the hotel bar with Mike and Chris.
The tour group collected in the lobby and walked to
Nancy Hands Bar & Restaurant for the farewell dinner. Sharon and I had caesar salads and a chicken burger. After dinner, a local muscian--Caty Cleary--played a few different instruments and sang a couple of songs.
We walked back to the hotel. Sharon and I did a little packing. We crashed about 10:20 pm.
[
I wrote this jounral entry on my iPad on the Aer Lingus flight from Dublin to San Francisco. We are just getting to Northern Canada.]
